Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-12-2016, 03:21 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Flooring - My idea good or bad?

Hello,

Still in the due diligence phase and was curious what the line of thought was for installing a flooring in a bus. I plan on gutting and installing ply down for the floor and then to install a floating floor over that to make it looked finished.

The more I think about it I am starting to think it could potentially be a bad idea. I originally thought of doing this due to the fact that I have close 2000 sqft of it not in use and could take advantage of materials all ready on hand.

Anyone out their who has done this and regretted it or does it just come down to a preference.

I am just wondering if using a floating floor click and lock would eventually start to come apart and heavy traffic arears which would be all of it would start to show wear and tear very quickly.

Thanks in advance for any ideas, advice, photos, ect....

RyansGone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 05:57 PM   #2
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 414
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
Doesn't seem like that big of a deal to me since it's one of the last things I'm going to do with the bus. I'll probably float it and then glue it down if it starts to come up. I may also glue modestly but I want to make sure it's relatively easy to remove and replace. I also may screw down just the edges and put some trim over it. Minor details though.

I plan to use fake wood vinyl if it's relevant.
TAOLIK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:03 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by TAOLIK View Post
Doesn't seem like that big of a deal to me since it's one of the last things I'm going to do with the bus. I'll probably float it and then glue it down if it starts to come up. I may also glue modestly but I want to make sure it's relatively easy to remove and replace. I also may screw down just the edges and put some trim over it. Minor details though.

I plan to use fake wood vinyl if it's relevant.
Thanks for your reply. Also I loved your website and have added it to my favorites!
RyansGone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:19 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Kent, WA (Seattle)
Posts: 414
Year: 1987
Engine: 6.9L Diesel
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansGone View Post
Thanks for your reply. Also I loved your website and have added it to my favorites!
*Creepy Grin*
Hah, thanks. It's a work in progress but I have ambitions to eventually make it noobie friendly and rich in good content. I know 90% of the visitors want electricity walkthroughs. That's all anyone seems to care about until they start their build. I don't blame them, electricity is great to have!
TAOLIK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:41 PM   #5
Bus Crazy
 
Scooternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
Depending on the size of your bus, don't forget to leave access to the screwed down panel in the floor, in line with the filler plate. That's access to part of the fuel system, and if you ever bring your bus in for major fuel system maintenance, the mechanics will probably tear up your floor getting at it.
__________________
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

Captain Obvious on deviantArt
Scooternj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:53 PM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj View Post
Depending on the size of your bus, don't forget to leave access to the screwed down panel in the floor, in line with the filler plate. That's access to part of the fuel system, and if you ever bring your bus in for major fuel system maintenance, the mechanics will probably tear up your floor getting at it.
Oh my.....I am glad I asked this question because I would have not thought of that!

Overwhelmed to say the least but optimistically excited!
RyansGone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 06:54 PM   #7
Bus Crazy
 
Stu & Filo. T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansGone View Post
Hello,

Still in the due diligence phase and was curious what the line of thought was for installing a flooring in a bus. I plan on gutting and installing ply down for the floor and then to install a floating floor over that to make it looked finished.

The more I think about it I am starting to think it could potentially be a bad idea. I originally thought of doing this due to the fact that I have close 2000 sqft of it not in use and could take advantage of materials all ready on hand.

Anyone out their who has done this and regretted it or does it just come down to a preference.

I am just wondering if using a floating floor click and lock would eventually start to come apart and heavy traffic arears which would be all of it would start to show wear and tear very quickly.

Thanks in advance for any ideas, advice, photos, ect....
I just read about this yesterday in January's issue of Motorhome mag, They don't recommend a floating floor,
Stu & Filo. T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 07:05 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 22
That's kind of what I was thinking as well. I did see where someone used plywood, took a torch to it and then clear coated it and the finished product looked really cool.

Thanks for the advice.
RyansGone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 07:07 PM   #9
Bus Nut
 
Carytowncat's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Richmond Virginia
Posts: 932
Year: 1984
Engine: 366 Big block Chevy! :) w/ Stick shift
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyansGone View Post
That's kind of what I was thinking as well. I did see where someone used plywood, took a torch to it and then clear coated it and the finished product looked really cool.

Thanks for the advice.
Interesting; that was the floor i saw that i wanted to do too. In the end i have large rugs everywhere so it is best i never bothered.

Still a sweet looking wood floor.
Carytowncat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 07:15 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Pensacola and Crystal River, FL
Posts: 647
Year: 1998
Coachwork: AmTran International
Chassis: 3800
Engine: Navistar 7.6L
laminate floating floor going around so many obstacles would be a real pain to install.
None of it tolerates getting wet, damp or even high humidity levels.
The makers are just now starting to market water resistant varieties.

Stick down vinyl planks.......I just can't see 500 feet of seams and edges not coming up now and then.

They do make some really good vinyl sheet flooring nowadays too.
One piece can cover the entire floor with no seams.
Waterproof and a vapor barrier as well.
DoubleO7 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 07:31 PM   #11
Bus Nut
 
superdave's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: hills of sw virginia
Posts: 889
Year: 1996
Chassis: thomas
Engine: 8.3 cummins
Rated Cap: 11 window
they make a solid vinyl click and lock flooring, lowes has it at 1.69 a sq foot. great stuff, the only thing i put in basements now.
__________________
living in a bus down by the river.
my build pics
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/membe...albums942.html
superdave is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 10:59 PM   #12
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: East TN
Posts: 12
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: GM
Engine: GM350
I too am beginning my build and my thoughts on flooring anywhere are durability and overall maintenance. I have decided on sheet vinyl as there are so many different styles and if it's a wood look you are wanting there really are many patterns and colors to choose from. Good luck!
CampingNana is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-12-2016, 11:06 PM   #13
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Whatever you put down...try to use the most waterproof material you can find. Between condensation and all the various fluids that somehow wind up indoors on a bus/RV...you will be thankful.

Me...I'm going with Pirelli rubber tile. There are places in the Paris Metro where it has been on the floor for over forty years and still looks great.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 06:40 AM   #14
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
Posts: 592
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Startrans
Chassis: Ford e-350 single wheel
Engine: 5.4 litre
Rated Cap: 12
I love my rubber/polyvinyl floor from HD. Just a thought. Never will get water damage.
leadsled01 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 07:27 AM   #15
Bus Geek
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Me...I'm going with Pirelli rubber tile. There are places in the Paris Metro where it has been on the floor for over forty years and still looks great.
I'm going to have to call B.S. on that. I don't remember ANYTHING on the Paris metro looking good much less great!!
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 09:53 AM   #16
Bus Crazy
 
milkmania's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
I started this thread last year... But they never sent me any material

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f10/g-...ing-11232.html
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
milkmania is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 10:06 AM   #17
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Not all of the Paris Metro is beautiful, but much of it is. And while most of the old Pirelli has been replaced there are a few areas that still have it. And given that much of it survived WWII, it still looks good.


Theirs...


...Mine (yet to be installed).

I have to say though, my favorite parts of the Metro are the old Art Nouveau elements. Some amazingly beautiful metal work...


Would love to have this as railing for my rear deck.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 10:36 AM   #18
Bus Geek
 
Brewerbob's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Essex, MD
Posts: 3,738
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: Blue Bird TC RE 3904, Flat Nose, 40', 277" wh base
Engine: 8.3L Cummins ISC 260hp, MT643, 4.44 rear
Rated Cap: 84 pax or 1 RV; 33,000lbs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Not all of the Paris Metro is beautiful, but much of it is. And while most of the old Pirelli has been replaced there are a few areas that still have it. And given that much of it survived WWII, it still looks good.


Theirs...


...Mine (yet to be installed).

I have to say though, my favorite parts of the Metro are the old Art Nouveau elements. Some amazingly beautiful metal work...


Would love to have this as railing for my rear deck.
That ain't the Paris metro I saw. No clue where the hell I was. It was in '94 and I wasn't planning on staying in Paris but someone at the airport decided to grab my suitcase and leave theirs.
Brewerbob is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 10:52 AM   #19
Bus Crazy
 
Stu & Filo. T's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj View Post
Depending on the size of your bus, don't forget to leave access to the screwed down panel in the floor, in line with the filler plate. That's access to part of the fuel system, and if you ever bring your bus in for major fuel system maintenance, the mechanics will probably tear up your floor getting at it.
The tank straps on my bus look to be 16gage sheetmetal with 5/8 all thread welded to them that bolt into crossbars, my plan is to bolt all thread in place that is about 4in longer than what on the strap now have new metal bent for straps & secure from the side of the tank. I've already moved my fuel tank rearward about 20in so I know I have enough wire & fuel line to lower the tank & reach the fittings if I need to.
Stu & Filo. T is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2016, 01:37 PM   #20
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Posts: 22
Wow! That looks amazing and again thanks for all the tips! Off subject but kind of excited about what I did today!

I went to the bus garage for our local school system and they were over the top friendly, helpful and over the top excited to tell me everything they could. I got to see what a line item sheet looked like, they let me go back and talk to the head mechanic! They gave me a contact here locally that gets all of their buses for resale! Awesome experience!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
RyansGone is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:19 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.