Found Leaky Roof Mid Conversion

[KevinDarcy11]

It happened.... Wife and I were trucking a long, got some Poly insulation in the ceiling. We've been working in the snow which has melted here and there and never found any leaks until yesterday.
1. I'm worried the insulation got wet and I'll need to rip it all out. I did a layer of reflectix first then put the Poly in. It's not significant leaking but enough that was noticeable on the floor
2. I'm thinking about just sanding/painting the roof with this stuff to seal it
https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-RP-IRC-.../dp/B00B2ATAWQ

Any thoughts/suggestions/ideas would be greatly appreciated!!! Hoping I didn't waste all that money in material

[leadsled01]

Poly insulation is water proof, right?

[KevinDarcy11]

I've heard mixed things. I think it's mostly waterproof because of it being closed cell but really just trying to make sure this thing is sealed up tight before subfloor goes in. We are planning on living in colder climates with lots of snow

[Drew Bru]

Problem with the leaks is you never know where they're located, as water travels in weird ways. We sealed up every seam and rivet on our roof with a Sikaflex polyurethane sealant. Didn't take long to run a bead over every seam and put a dollop on every rivet.....less than 2 hours. That did the trick.
Dicor lap sealant is amazing, and amazingly sticky. I'd be inclined to use the lap sealant on every seam and rivet, then (assuming it's compatible) use the paint you linked to and cover the whole shebang.

[KevinDarcy11]

I think that will be the plan of attack. We want this thing airtight and nice and comfy for the winters in the mountains and summers on the beach Thank you for your help!!!

[ol trunt]

I'd go with the Silkaflex. It remains flexible and can be painted with (as best I can tell) any paint. I used it as a seam sealer and window adhesive/sealer on my bus nearly 8 years ago and it is still completely satisfactory. One word of caution; in order for it to bond, the surface must be clean and tight which translates sand and rinse enough to get rid of dirt, oil and flaking paint.
Jack

[KevinDarcy11]

Jack, do you think it's overkill to do the roof in Dicor if I just seal all the inside with that stuff? It seems to be pretty pricey stuff and we are on a budget.

[david.dgeorge07]

I’m not saying that you don’t have leaks, but it is possible that if you’ve been heating the bus the air where it touches the outside skin will cause huge amounts of condensation, definitely enough to run down and appear as though it is leaking rain water. My drivers area just has a layer of rubber over the sheet metal and it pools water in the winter when I’m heating the bus.

[KevinDarcy11]

Yeah we noticed it when we had a big day of snowmelt. We don't have heat or a woodstove set up yet, unfortunately. I'm apprehensive to drop the 100~ on the Dicor but it sounds like that and some Silkaflex is the best option....

[ol trunt]

I decided Silkaflex on the outside seams and rivets would probably control the entry of liquid water. Eliminating condensation inside the body was more complicated. All of the metal panels on my bus were factory coated with red oxide primer before assembly so I had a little head start. The factory then slathered on lap cement (tar) and pressed a thin layer of rock wool (early day “fiberglass” insulation) followed by the installation of the inner steel panels. I pulled out the rock wool and chipped off the tar and treated all the panels with Rustmort and a layer of Rustoleum. Next I cut and fit a 2” layer of R-Tech insulation and press fit it in place and reinstalled the inner sheet metal. Then I sprayed contact cement over the exposed interior panels and applied a layer of thin automotive carpet material. I also installed dual pane windows. We’ve camped in all sorts of weather from snow to desert summer heat and with the exception of the windshield we have not had condensation in the bus. I did not fill the roof bows with foam and as a result you can see their location in a snow dusting due to the transfer of heat causing partial melting—Oh Well.
Jack

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I am a great believer in "mock-ups"--this one to test out the table size and location at tea time.

[KevinDarcy11]

Great job on the conversion! Thanks for all the info... Hoping by sealing the rivets on the inside and then covering the top of the bus in Dicor it will seal it up nicely. We shall see!

[alpine44]

Originally Posted by ol trunt

I decided Silkaflex on the outside seams and rivets would probably control the entry of liquid water. Eliminating condensation inside the body was more complicated. All of the metal panels on my bus were factory coated with red oxide primer before assembly so I had a little head start. The factory then slathered on lap cement (tar) and pressed a thin layer of rock wool (early day “fiberglass” insulation) followed by the installation of the inner steel panels. I pulled out the rock wool and chipped off the tar and treated all the panels with Rustmort and a layer of Rustoleum. Next I cut and fit a 2” layer of R-Tech insulation and press fit it in place and reinstalled the inner sheet metal. Then I sprayed contact cement over the exposed interior panels and applied a layer of thin automotive carpet material. I also installed dual pane windows. We’ve camped in all sorts of weather from snow to desert summer heat and with the exception of the windshield we have not had condensation in the bus. I did not fill the roof bows with foam and as a result you can see their location in a snow dusting due to the transfer of heat causing partial melting—Oh Well.
Jack

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.

.

.

I am a great believer in "mock-ups"--this one to test out the table size and location at tea time.

That pop-up roof looks sweet. Can you give us details?