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Old 10-09-2017, 06:56 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
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Found my water leak... now I need ideas on a permanent fix.

Hey guys...

Stripped the gutter off my shuttle bus tonight and certainly found the cause of the leak. There is roughly a 1/2"+ gap in some areas between the roof material and wall skins. The only thing that has kept it from leaking was the sticky goop on the back of the gutter (that was hiding the seam).

The top of the sidewall skin is actually held tight by the gutter...
IMG_20171009_174249773_HDR by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

This is after cleaning a good bit of goop off...
IMG_20171009_180123675_HDR by acidburn02zts, on Flickr

In the rear of the bus.. the roof material overlaps the sidewall a bit which is great... up about mid way, that overlap ends and a gap forms.

I was thinking about some thin flashing to tuck up under the roof material to over lap the wall.. then rivet or screw the upper part of the wall to the frame... then seal the whole thing before reinstalling the gutters with butyl tape.

What other ideas do you guys have?

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Old 10-09-2017, 07:37 PM   #2
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Year: 2001
Coachwork: Gillig
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I think I would take a tape measure and see if either the wall or the roof is bowing, causing the gap. If so, I'd want to clamp that back straight before sealing it up. I like the z-flashing idea too, although I suspect you'll have to bend it custom from soft aluminum.
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:46 PM   #3
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What make is your bus body?
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:50 PM   #4
Bus Nut
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lensman View Post
I think I would take a tape measure and see if either the wall or the roof is bowing, causing the gap. If so, I'd want to clamp that back straight before sealing it up. I like the z-flashing idea too, although I suspect you'll have to bend it custom from soft aluminum.
Looking at the roof line, nothing appears to be bowing or anything like that. The roofing material is still held down on that seam with screws every 10" or so. The sidewall is loose but doesn't look to have moved as there is still a clear line where the gutter was and has been since it was built. I'm going to say they just cheaped out and didn't take the time to fit the material just so so.

I'd really prefer the roof to overlap the sidewall just a bit making for a much less leak prone area.. I dont have any coil stock at the moment and would hate to buy a roll just for this little bit.

I'll see what I can find locally premade first...
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Old 10-09-2017, 07:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roach711 View Post
What make is your bus body?
It's a '93 model Goshen coach.
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Old 10-09-2017, 11:08 PM   #6
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Went back out to take a look at things.. cut a small piece of aluminum and tried to work it up under the roof skin and that isn't going to happen.

The only way I can do it is if I cut the adhesive used all along the edge of the roof skin on that seam. I think that will do more harm then good so here is plan "B"...

The roof skin is secure but the wall skin is not. The wall skin was originally held tight by the gutter and the gutter sealant. I'm going to drill and rivet the wall skin to the main frame all along that seam ever 6-8" so it pulls up nice and tight. Any loose areas along the roof skin seam will get the same treatment. Then run a nice heavy bead of "Through the ROOF" along the seam and fill the gap...

Through the Roof!® by Sashco - Roofing Sealant & Caulk

After a week or 2 of cure time, I'll reinstall the gutter (slightly trimmed on the ends to allow for better drainage) using butyl tape and screws through the original holes. The gutter will completely cover the seam/gap as it did from the factory and the butyl tape should add another layer of protection from leaks.

Thoughts?

That's about the only semi-permanent/permanent fix I can think of without damaging or removing parts of the exterior skin which I have no intention of doing.

Thanks for the input guys
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Old 10-10-2017, 08:58 AM   #7
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Wow. So the gutter covered the gap, but any place where its seal to the roof wasn't perfect, water would easily get behind it and run into the wall. That really is poor manufacturing.

What's the roof material -- fiberglass? I haven't actually had the privilege of making a fiberglass part yet, so take my thoughts for what they're worth (not much). I wonder whether it would be feasible and effective to epoxy on a bit more material to extend the roof so that it laps over the wall.
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Old 10-10-2017, 10:56 AM   #8
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Yeah... good fun. Lol

The side skins are aluminum.. roof skin is fiberglass. Correct... only thing keeping water out was the tape on the back of the gutter. It wouldn't have taken 10 extra minutes to fit the roof skin properly.. but no. Lol

One COULD build up the edge of the skin a bit.. but it would be brittle and I don't think it would last or hold up for any length of time. I thought about skimming the whole seam with reinforced fiberglass filler.. but then there is the high likelihood that it would crack over time.

I think something pliable will work better for the long haul.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:14 AM   #9
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What about Eternabond tape? I'd worry a little about using a semi-liquid sealer over a gap without any structure to support it.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:21 AM   #10
Bus Nut
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by family wagon View Post
What about Eternabond tape? I'd worry a little about using a semi-liquid sealer over a gap without any structure to support it.
Could probably use the tape. I'll get the skins riveted down tonight and see what kind of gap I've got. The metal frame of the bus body is behind the gap.

I'll get them pulled up tight and snap some pictures of what the gap looks like afterwards sometime tonight if weather permits.
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Old 10-10-2017, 11:56 PM   #11
Bus Nut
 
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Went out after work and got the seam cleaned up and riveted down. I riveted the sidewall skin every 6-8" and the roof skin any place it was loose (still had factory fasteners in place). The gap between the two panels is much tighter now.

I believe a couple light coats of sealant on the seam along with a full covering of butyl tape before reinstalling the gutter should be the permanent fix I'm after.

I scrubbed the seam and panels with dish soap and a scrub brush to get all the loose nasty crap out of the seam. I'll let it dry out until I get off work tomorrow and then I'll seal it up.
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