 |
|
09-27-2020, 10:48 AM
|
#21
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,185
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
|
It makes no sense to have the tech screws threading into the wood. All that is going to do is cause the wood to lift as the screw tip hits the metal. Even if the screw does finally penetrate the metal there will still be space between the wood and metal and the wood will seem lose even with the screw head flush with the wood. To then get the wood tight will require the screw to strip out the threads in the wood so the screw can finally pull the wood to the metal. A hammer drill may help with this but since there is way more thread contact with the wood, either the screw threads themselves where they go through the metal or the metal itself are very likely to strip.
Drill a pilot hole of the proper size for the tech screw through both the wood and the metal and then enlarge the hole in the wood to a size that lets the tech screw drop freely to the metal through the wood. When actually tapping the metal with the tech screw use a drill speed just fast enough to allow for the tech screw to cut. Too fast a speed will suddenly bottom out the screw and either strip it or break off the head.
Jack
|
|
|
09-27-2020, 10:59 AM
|
#22
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 309
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12-valve
Rated Cap: 1
|
Are you hitting the frame under the floor?
|
|
|
09-27-2020, 02:22 PM
|
#23
|
Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus
Are you hitting the frame under the floor?
|
Same thing I was saying, in addition to...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
It makes no sense to have the tech screws threading into the wood. All that is going to do is cause the wood to lift as the screw tip hits the metal. Even if the screw does finally penetrate the metal there will still be space between the wood and metal and the wood will seem lose even with the screw head flush with the wood. To then get the wood tight will require the screw to strip out the threads in the wood so the screw can finally pull the wood to the metal. A hammer drill may help with this but since there is way more thread contact with the wood, either the screw threads themselves where they go through the metal or the metal itself are very likely to strip.
Drill a pilot hole of the proper size for the tech screw through both the wood and the metal and then enlarge the hole in the wood to a size that lets the tech screw drop freely to the metal through the wood. When actually tapping the metal with the tech screw use a drill speed just fast enough to allow for the tech screw to cut. Too fast a speed will suddenly bottom out the screw and either strip it or break off the head.
Jack 
|
I think OP is experiencing a combination of these. I also think the screws are long enough that they are not able to sink the head completely into the wood.
|
|
|
09-27-2020, 05:33 PM
|
#24
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,853
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by ol trunt
It makes no sense to have the tech screws threading into the wood. All that is going to do is cause the wood to lift as the screw tip hits the metal. Even if the screw does finally penetrate the metal there will still be space between the wood and metal and the wood will seem lose even with the screw head flush with the wood. To then get the wood tight will require the screw to strip out the threads in the wood so the screw can finally pull the wood to the metal. A hammer drill may help with this but since there is way more thread contact with the wood, either the screw threads themselves where they go through the metal or the metal itself are very likely to strip.
Drill a pilot hole of the proper size for the tech screw through both the wood and the metal and then enlarge the hole in the wood to a size that lets the tech screw drop freely to the metal through the wood. When actually tapping the metal with the tech screw use a drill speed just fast enough to allow for the tech screw to cut. Too fast a speed will suddenly bottom out the screw and either strip it or break off the head.
Jack 
|
The Tek screws being used have wings after the tapping head. These wings cut a hole in the wood the size needed to allow the screw to burry itself without actually screwing the wood and lifting the wood when it hits the metal. These are wonderfully engineered screws ... the metal floors in the bus are wonderfully hard to cut and take a lot of pressure to cut the tap for the metal screw threads.
|
|
|
09-27-2020, 06:28 PM
|
#25
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 27
|
threr are specific screws , heavy duty ,kinda like screw used to fasten boards
onto flatbed trucks ,check local resource truck co. or rental yard
|
|
|
09-27-2020, 08:39 PM
|
#26
|
Bus Nut
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Central Alabama
Posts: 309
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC/2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 12-valve
Rated Cap: 1
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
Same thing I was saying
|
I think you were right and that was the idea I was trying to reinforce without mucking it up with other thoughts. Seems to me that a 3" screw is way too long if just trying to screw down plywood to a metal floor. Either hitting the frame rail or something else to make it stop with 1 inch to go. I see it hitting the rail and it is actually wanting to push back up against the metal floor, but it can't and that's why the drill stops.
|
|
|
09-27-2020, 08:58 PM
|
#27
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,449
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaBus
I think you were right and that was the idea I was trying to reinforce without mucking it up with other thoughts. Seems to me that a 3" screw is way too long if just trying to screw down plywood to a metal floor. Either hitting the frame rail or something else to make it stop with 1 inch to go. I see it hitting the rail and it is actually wanting to push back up against the metal floor, but it can't and that's why the drill stops.
|
Those screws have a 3:4” long pilot metal cutting bit on the front, then the screw starts. The wood-to-metal screw has a fine thread that can screw through wood, but then quickly strips out in the wood. The pilot bit in the front can *almost* make it through 1/8” mild steel. So when you buy those screws they need to be 1” longer than the material that you want to screw
|
|
|
09-30-2020, 04:26 PM
|
#28
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 160
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
|
We got it! Last night I went and grabbed an impact driver. And today...voila! Screws went in and are seated perfectly. It was actually pretty simple nice we learned the tool we needed. Thanks everyone!
|
|
|
09-30-2020, 04:48 PM
|
#29
|
Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Stanardsville, Virginia
Posts: 160
Year: 2006
Coachwork: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 30
|
We were screwing the plywood down on top of insulation so I allotted for leaving 1/2” on the underside of the bus. The 2 sheets we put down are sitting nice and firm.
|
|
|
09-30-2020, 04:51 PM
|
#30
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,853
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
|
Excellent!!!
|
|
|
09-30-2020, 05:05 PM
|
#31
|
Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by witchywoman
we got it! Last night i went and grabbed an impact driver. And today...voila! Screws went in and are seated perfectly. It was actually pretty simple nice we learned the tool we needed. Thanks everyone!
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by witchywoman
we were screwing the plywood down on top of
|
|
|
|
09-30-2020, 05:45 PM
|
#32
|
Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: NM USA KD6WJG
Posts: 1,041
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE 40 FEET
Engine: Cummins 8.3
|
Here is what I used. https://www.ebay.com/itm/50-1-4-20-X...AAAOSw4HVWEXMF
Pre-drill 3/16 and use a t-30 torx bit on a electric impact gun. I used about 300 of them. I have no monetary interest in the evil-bay seller.
|
|
|
09-30-2020, 06:13 PM
|
#33
|
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 6
|
I won’t use anything else now
After a lot of money and trial and error this is what I’m using. PowerPro One Multi-Material by Hillman. Lowe’s carries this in stock. Pre-drill and you should be fine.
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 07:43 PM
|
#34
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 27
|
screws ,wood into metal
bypass useless opinions ,here the straight dope ,me retired builder .
have worked on mobile homes trailers, what exactly is dimension in
thikeness of woo ,and metal below?
And is metal below 1/8 inch sheet metal oir are you drillin into frame rails
you must use proper fastener , Fastech .com
use a screw that is made for wood on top metal below of sufficent
length to go through wood {passing thru.pullin down}
and of proper diameter ,to thread into sheet metal /NOT STRIP OUT.
also sometime must use pilot srew hole {metal BIT} 1/8 smaller then screw size
Also buy a dewalt brushless impact driver .you need the power to
do the work
the screws shown on your post are average deck screw NOT good enuf.
I hope this help gussboy ,see my bus#10 crown
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 08:19 PM
|
#35
|
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 6
|
Please refrain from your insults
I have built homes and rebuilt cars for over 40 years. The fastener I’m using in my Skoolie is an awesome fastened. I doubt you have used this fastener for anything to please refrain from your insults. Thank you.
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 08:29 PM
|
#36
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 27
|
sorry if you feel insulted ,ive got ,nothing to add
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 08:30 PM
|
#37
|
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 6
|
Whatever, dude.
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 09:09 PM
|
#38
|
Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,449
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubicon58
I have built homes and rebuilt cars for over 40 years. The fastener I’m using in my Skoolie is an awesome fastened. I doubt you have used this fastener for anything to please refrain from your insults. Thank you.
|
I don't think the other user meant you specifically with their "bypass useless opinions". I think they were referring to everyone else here with an opinion. One feature of skoolie.net that can really improve the experience on this forum is the ignore list. Click on User CP in the upper left and then click on "edit ignore list". You can then add users to the list and their posts are automatically hidden from you.
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 09:45 PM
|
#39
|
New Member
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 6
|
Thank you
Thank you for the heads up. I will do that.
|
|
|
10-02-2020, 10:52 PM
|
#40
|
Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 27
|
the screw a very experienced person is showing is not a flush finish bugle head screw
do you think a flat smooth surface is good for a floor
me 50 years exp.
|
|
|
 |
|
Thread Tools |
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Threads |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|