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Old 02-14-2018, 09:20 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Jdawgsfanasty View Post
Let me throw this in the mix(haven't seen it in this thread yet) https://youtu.be/fB5CH-834gk

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The only thing Iím concerned with about that is the ďdouble vapor barrierí part... the reason I was thinking of mineral wool was for it to end up somewhat breathable..

But in theory that stuff would be great. Iíve seen a few YouTube skoolie switch the foil backed foam board with the foil towards the inside, havenít heard anything about performance or longevity though as those build I saw wet still on-going
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Old 02-14-2018, 09:49 PM   #42
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The only thing Iím concerned with about that is the ďdouble vapor barrierí part... the reason I was thinking of mineral wool was for it to end up somewhat breathable..

But in theory that stuff would be great. Iíve seen a few YouTube skoolie switch the foil backed foam board with the foil towards the inside, havenít heard anything about performance or longevity though as those build I saw wet still on-going
Idk either...but this stuff is closed cell

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Old 02-15-2018, 04:01 PM   #43
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A lot of stuff had to be installed before the spray Foam insulation went in, mostly electrical, conduit, wring, light fixtures, the surface rust needed to be dealt with and everything cleaned, sealed and painted.

I had called around to all the big insulators in the area and was told by all of them that they were not interested.

One guy that does refrigerated Trailers told me he would do it with open Cell foam for $5,000, NOT !!!!!!!

I found one guy that said he would do it, but kept putting me off.

I thought I would have to do it myself and was pricing out the kits when I happened to do a Spray Foam search on Craigslist and found a local guy, EliteFoam.

He came over and measured up the Bus and gave me an estimate for much lower than anything I had been given or even heard of before.

Showed up when he said he would and did an outstanding job, completely insulated the Bus with Closed Cell, trimmed it, and cleaned it up afterward.

I would Highly recommend anyone in the Tampa Bay Area that needs Spray foam to contact these guys.

I spent the two days before masking everything off, spent over a $100 in masking materials.

Money and time well spent, anything not masked and covered will get overspray, airborne residue or droppings on it.






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Old 02-15-2018, 04:15 PM   #44
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Thatís FANCY! I could see that working out well.
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:17 PM   #45
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These days I am always amazed when a contractor actually shows up on time and does what he says he will for the agreed price.

Hey Florida...SUPPORT THIS GUY!
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:23 PM   #46
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So you told us all about the bad prices, what was the good price you paid?
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:40 PM   #47
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So you told us all about the bad prices, what was the good price you paid?
He came out and measured and did a few calculations and quoted me $750.00

That was how much he charged, I thought he did such a good job I tipped $100.00

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Old 02-15-2018, 04:43 PM   #48
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ELiteFoam
Sean Trussler
727-599-5861

EliteFoamLLC@gmail.com
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:48 PM   #49
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Outstanding deal. Most are much higher around here and do NOT include trimming & cleanup.
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Old 02-15-2018, 04:50 PM   #50
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Quote:
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He came out and measured and did a few calculations and quoted me $750.00

That was how much he charged, I thought he did such a good job I tipped $100.00

Peter
That's a good price if they shaved and cleaned up, others have paid $800 and had to do the hard labor themselves.
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Old 02-15-2018, 05:52 PM   #51
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Awesome!!

It looks like they did a really nice job.

I ran into the same challenge trying to find someone to foam mine. Not much interest from the insulation contractors. I did finally find a trailer repair company that quoted me $1200-$1400. Not near the deal that you got.
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:21 PM   #52
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Looks like a great deal.

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Old 02-15-2018, 06:23 PM   #53
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Most of the commercial spray foam is compatabile with metal because that's what a lot of steel and sheetmetal structures are doing instead of the ridgid board.
Don't know about the DIY kits.
And have heard that the great stuff eats metal?
To make rigid board fit the roof curves you need to figure out the angle and cut it to fit whether 1-3" wide strips in the tighter turns and wider in the slightly longer curves and tape the seams,use a spray glue or armaflex glue(better but would really suck overhead cause it is brush on drippy mess) any gap left in the top of the board buy cutting squares just leaves all of those areas un-insulated?
If I went For ridgid board I would figure out my cuts and then make two top of wall templates to rest the cuts on while I fitted taped them in the position I want them in.
Of course if your sticking them in the ribs your not going to get them tight anyway unless you do one single piece at a time and the bigger pieces you want to fit in the wall ribs tight are gonna go something like you cut it exact and then can't get it in so best option is to split it in the middle and as you get both pieces started and the back middle edges touching run a piece of tape down it. Then force it into place and tape the front. Please don't cut off one edge to make it fit and shove the trimmed edge down the side to make it a tight fit.
I work with steel piping,tanks,structure stuff and have done more than my share of ridgid insulation on 0-400 degree piping and tanks,pumps type of things.
They actually have a mastic are glue/sealant product that is sold to be used with the cuts in ridgid insulation to fill the voids of the cutters/formers mistakes.
But for the normal big box store that thanks everything is square they only sell tape to seal there foam board?
For ridgid board.
A sawzall ,skill saw with a plywood blade or a regular blade turned teeth backwards, or a jog saw will work on anything over anything over an inch.
The best ridgid board insulation can be ordered to fit whatever curve/tank dimension or as flat board for ductwork insulation.
With or without vapor barrier of many types.
For the ones looking at ridgid board insulation? Check out POLY ISO
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Old 02-15-2018, 06:33 PM   #54
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You can cut foam board with an electric kitchen knife too.

Although, as stated above you do need to angle the cuts so that the pieces fit each other without gaps. I'll use the table saw for that. Each piece will be fairly small and light, and the adhesive they sell in Lowes, etc, for foam board should be enough to hold it in place while the cement cures.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:46 PM   #55
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That's been my question about using rigid. I'd never heard anyone talk about using glue, but there's not many permanent alternatives. With the thermal break most of you build into your ceilings the panel stands a good chance of dislodging over the years. If a panel dropped into the thermal break area it would allow condensation on the skin. I never figured out how to insure the panels would stay in place, unless you put a tennis ball in the center of each panel while installing the ceiling or any method of physically blocking the insulation panel up against the skin of the bus.

I do like my spray foam because it works very well, but it was a real bad time getting to this point. Not a happy process. Rigid insulation has got to do an equal job of insulating if you can get it to permanently stick to the skin so it doesn't drop into the thermal break after a number of years.
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:55 PM   #56
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Why not fix in place with this:

Loctite PL 300 VOC Foam Board Adhesive Carton of 12 from BuYMBS.com
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Old 02-15-2018, 08:41 PM   #57
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Any idea how that might compare to liquid nails or some other strong adhesive? Holding a panel upside down on a ceiling that gets hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter year after year, all the time getting vibrated while driving. That's what kept me from using rigid in the first place.

Signed, no faith in glue.
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Old 02-15-2018, 09:19 PM   #58
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I figured in the roofs 2" I would probably have to go with multi layers of 1" or 1/2" glued up each layer at a time depending on how flexible the 1" is. if you slit the board horizontal to the bend, you should be able to get the thicker stuff to make the profile needed
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Old 02-15-2018, 10:24 PM   #59
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Those types of questions are why I ended up going with spray foam.

Yes the 1/2" even bends to the curve of the where the wall meets the ceiling. Maybe just use 1/2" in the corners and 1" in the flatter areas. Rigid insulation has its own issues.
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Old 02-16-2018, 07:11 AM   #60
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I haven't driven around yet but I used roxul comfortboard 80 in my ceiling. 1.5" r6. I cut 6 inch strips and squeezed it in there tightly and it's physically difficult to get out so I have no worries about it falling down, even without the ceiling installed. Ceiling is 1/4" cedar nailed into furring strips screwed to the ribs mostly. (Low ceiling, no roof raise so I made it high and tight!). Seems to be great, makes a huge difference in bus warmth in the cold, and is seemingly less toxic than anything else I can find, no Voc's, less petrochemicals etc... I used roxul fluffy insulation in my walls for the same reasons and I think it's great compared to the fiberglass that was there.

I used the same 1.5" roxul under my subfloor too. We'll see how it holds up but I have zero concerns thus far.
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