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02-16-2018, 12:07 PM
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#61
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rffffffff
I haven't driven around yet but I used roxul comfortboard 80 in my ceiling. 1.5" r6. I cut 6 inch strips and squeezed it in there tightly and it's physically difficult to get out so I have no worries about it falling down, even without the ceiling installed. Ceiling is 1/4" cedar nailed into furring strips screwed to the ribs mostly. (Low ceiling, no roof raise so I made it high and tight!). Seems to be great, makes a huge difference in bus warmth in the cold, and is seemingly less toxic than anything else I can find, no Voc's, less petrochemicals etc... I used roxul fluffy insulation in my walls for the same reasons and I think it's great compared to the fiberglass that was there.
I used the same 1.5" roxul under my subfloor too. We'll see how it holds up but I have zero concerns thus far.
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You make some interesting points about insulating with a natural material. Also this answers the question about this type of insulation very well. Thank you.
In about 30 years we can figure out which insulation lasts longer.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-16-2018, 12:28 PM
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#62
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Cerrillos, NM
Posts: 391
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Front Engine
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 72
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I have no doubt that other things will last longer, but if I'm still in this bus in 30 years I'll worry about it then!
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02-16-2018, 03:18 PM
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#63
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Allright, let's make it a date. In 30 years we'll pull our insulation and decide which one worked the best.
Any insulation is fine as long as it stays dry. I prefer closed cell in spray foam or rigid as it can not hold water since it has no fibers. I'm not ragging on your choice of insulation. I'm happy to see it because we have been asking that very question here for some time now. Change is a slow process. I hope it works well because that's just one more choice available to us. Thanks for sharing.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-16-2018, 05:36 PM
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#64
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Gold Bar, WA
Posts: 125
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 L Cummins Turbo
Rated Cap: 28
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I have Roxul for my walls and floor insulation - made a 2x4 grid on floor, put it in each section then added plywood on top. I will also be adding it to the roof between ceiling and styrofoam board. It is easy to cut with a saw blade, and I have even split it in half to fit in the wall area. I like that it is easy to work with, nontoxic, won't grow mold, fire retardant. I love it.
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02-16-2018, 08:32 PM
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#65
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 95
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Has anyone seen/used this 3in1 underlayment these guys talk about? I like the idea...
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02-16-2018, 08:42 PM
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#66
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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I haven't watched the video yet, but that looks like R-Tech insulation.
R-Tech is expanded polystyrene, and although R-Max is rather more expensive, it's a much better choice.
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02-16-2018, 08:44 PM
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#67
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 95
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I was thinking the underlayment they talk about...
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02-16-2018, 08:58 PM
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#68
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWorBUST72
I was thinking the underlayment they talk about...
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lol ... I'll watch the video
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02-16-2018, 09:27 PM
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#69
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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It looked like they were using spray can adhesive to glue foam carpet padding to the back of the panels.
__________________
Robin
Nobody's Business
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02-16-2018, 09:37 PM
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#70
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
It looked like they were using spray can adhesive to glue foam carpet padding to the back of the panels.
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Its a 3ply thing, a moisture barrier, some insulation and it helps with sound deadening...idk. They describe it at the 2:00 mark...
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02-17-2018, 12:47 AM
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#71
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 43
Year: 1997
Rated Cap: 15 passenger
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Wonderful conversation! You have all convinced me to stick with my plan to use foam board insulation. I find all this discussion fascinating, especially since insulating is my next step. I have been kicking myself all winter that I was not winterized.
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02-17-2018, 08:39 AM
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#72
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 95
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If you use the rigid foam with the radiant barrier on it, doesnt that "shiny side" go out to the metal of the bus?
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02-17-2018, 12:16 PM
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#73
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Almost There
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: North-West Georgia
Posts: 69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWorBUST72
Its a 3ply thing, a moisture barrier, some insulation and it helps with sound deadening...idk. They describe it at the 2:00 mark...
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Depending on how evenly applied the tuft on that 3-ply stuff is, I feel like it might make a good sub-floor layer. Like if you intended to do some sort of tongue and groove flooring. (Assuming that it's smooth enough that it wouldn't effect the laying of the flooring.) My only concern is what the stuff is made of. Do you have a link to the product or know exactly what its called? (I only skimmed the video to get the gist of which material you were talking about.)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peach Camp
Wonderful conversation! You have all convinced me to stick with my plan to use foam board insulation. I find all this discussion fascinating, especially since insulating is my next step. I have been kicking myself all winter that I was not winterized.
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I'm glad that the thread is giving you some food for thought. That's what I was hoping it would do for myself and obviously for others.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWorBUST72
If you use the rigid foam with the radiant barrier on it, doesnt that "shiny side" go out to the metal of the bus?
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The shiny side is the radiant barrier portion if I'm not mistaken. While logic would say face it outward, I feel like since its a "Radiant Barrier" and not a "Conductive Barrier" it being in contact with the outer skins would negate its usefulness. In my opinion it would be better to have it facing inward. but thats just my $0.02
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02-17-2018, 12:54 PM
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#74
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Owasso, OK
Posts: 2,627
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: Cummins 6CTA8.3 Mechanical MD3060
Rated Cap: 46 Coach Seats, 40 foot
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Face the foil inwards. It helps keep the heat in the bus when you need it.
The other side has a steel skin. Facing the foil towards it would achieve nothing.
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02-17-2018, 02:50 PM
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#75
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2017
Location: Western Washington
Posts: 43
Year: 1997
Rated Cap: 15 passenger
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I use foil side out (of insulating foam board) in my window covering sections. All the work I have seen used foil side out. What is everyone else doing?
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02-17-2018, 04:16 PM
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#76
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Most of the foil faced foam board actually has foil on both sides. It's just that one side has color on it for some reason. I just installed some 3M stuff in a warehouse where we had the same long discussion/argument about which way the "shiny" side goes...in or out.
Then someone read the fine print info right on the boards which said...it didn't matter. Both sides were actually the same.
Don't know what you are working with but, like they say,
when all else fails...read the instructions. Worked in our case.
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02-19-2018, 05:24 PM
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#77
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Milwaukee Wisconsin
Posts: 54
Year: '95
Coachwork: Thomas Vista
Chassis: International 3600
Engine: T444/at545
Rated Cap: 72? 11 window...
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Im in the middle of insulating my bus walls right now, and have been using Great Stuff "big gap filler" cans of spray foam.
Its... well... great stuff.
After tearing out the stock insulation there was around a foot tall space below the steel rail the seats bolt to which i filled with the stuff. Cost around 70 bucks total. Im putting fancy wood planks up to replace the inside wall panels and filling the gap with foam as i go, around 8" a day working upward. Projected foam costs are about $175, but may be more since ive bought out the local menards and home depot of the stuff...
It is a closed cell expanding foam and does not absorb water
It does catalyse with moisture to cause expansion, so make sure surfaces are fairly dry (blasted the heat for 12h 1st) beforehand to avoid trapping a pocket of moisture against the steel - that is the reason some say 1 part foam corrodes steel.
I recommend it for anyone wanting spray foam w/o the cost of a pro installation
Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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02-19-2018, 07:33 PM
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#78
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Any idea how that might compare to liquid nails or some other strong adhesive? Holding a panel upside down on a ceiling that gets hot in the summer and freezing cold in the winter year after year, all the time getting vibrated while driving. That's what kept me from using rigid in the first place.
Signed, no faith in glue.
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I just saw a pinterest skoolie where the guy did the ceiling in (nice) plywood that he flexed by compression. It would hold the rigid stuff up in place nicely I would think.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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02-19-2018, 07:40 PM
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#79
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peach Camp
I use foil side out (of insulating foam board) in my window covering sections. All the work I have seen used foil side out. What is everyone else doing?
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The windows don't have a steel skin, so it makes sense to me to put the foil side OUT on the windows, especially if you are trying to deal with heat outside as opposed to cold outside.
If you want to keep your heat in because you live in Alaska, in theory anyway you'd want to foil on the inside. If you live in Arizona, you'd want it foil side out.
Naturally I'm trying to do both things so...... Still trying to figure this out!
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
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02-19-2018, 08:24 PM
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#80
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Just for the record...Great Stuff eats metal. And if sprayed into a closed location...will never cure.
Not "Great" for use on an RV or Skoolie.
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