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Old 10-24-2020, 12:55 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Help! What to do with bus circuit panel + power line

I’ll start by prefacing this that everything is still working fine - bus starts, turn signals and brake lights work, etc.

We’re so close to removing all the unnecessary wiring (flashers, emergency buzzers, etc). All that’s left on the bus circuit panel (excuse my ignorance here) is this main red power wire (photo 1). I traced it back to a circuit breaker under the hood (photo 2). It seems like the battery under the hood and the battery under the passenger side are connected. If my goal is to get this panel out of the front of the bus, how best should I deal with this connection?

Finally, is there anything to be done with this fuse box (again sorry if this isn’t the right name) I found under the drivers seat (photo 3)? Help me skoolie folks, you’re my only hope!
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:20 PM   #2
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You really need to get a wiring diagram, in hand, to start taking out fuse boxes. Is the second one fed from the first and if so is it constantly on or is it switched? On the first one I would disconnect the line side of the red wire, tape it up and leave it in place. Check all the bus functions with the first fuse box powered down, maybe even go for a drive. There are relays on these panels that switch on and off depending on other inputs. A wiring diagram is key.
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Old 10-24-2020, 01:44 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rwnielsen View Post
You really need to get a wiring diagram, in hand, to start taking out fuse boxes. Is the second one fed from the first and if so is it constantly on or is it switched? On the first one I would disconnect the line side of the red wire, tape it up and leave it in place. Check all the bus functions with the first fuse box powered down, maybe even go for a drive. There are relays on these panels that switch on and off depending on other inputs. A wiring diagram is key.
Thanks for this! Since the fuse box is under the drivers seat I’m fine with leaving it there. There was a single wire that connected it to the bus circuit panel (above drivers seat) which I disconnected - figured if nothing else was running off that panel it would be fine.

If I disconnect the main red power wire from the circuit panel and taped it up and left it tucked away would that be sufficient then? I did that with some other wires but figured this one needed special care.

And yeah, been working on getting wiring diagrams! (just need to learn how to read them first)
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:01 PM   #4
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Just take a slow careful approach. You can do it
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Old 10-24-2020, 02:06 PM   #5
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ive never heard of a factory panel under the drivers seat.. many of the camera / nop child left behind type systems located their aftermarket panels wherever they could fiund.. under the driver seat was a common place forthe DVR of a bus camera system.. if your bus had cameras and you find that the same color wires in the ceiling where cameras are show up at the driver seat fuse box and you cant find any other place they go then its often a good bet..



you also can cut the main power to what you think is an unnecesary system.. ie switch off the breaker or disconnect the feed wire and see if something breaks.. thus before removing anything it gives you a way to know if what you are pulling will break a cisrcuit..



im of the mind to leave all of the factory fuse panels and breaker boxes. I have found them to be useful when needing to add a circuit for something I want.. its already breakered and has a power source easy to use.. often with a switch I can simply re-label
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:15 AM   #6
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Update! So I managed to "flip" the breaker (see attached photo) and taped the other end of the red power line (the one attached to the bus circuit panel/board). I'm guessing this is sufficient to disable that part of the system for the time being – is there anything I'm missing?

I also requested the wiring diagrams from the bus company – will share them here in case its useful to anyone working on a 2010 Chevy + Mid / Collins short bus!
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Old 10-26-2020, 01:14 PM   #7
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Verify there is no power to the fuse panel and then disconnect the red wire from the load side of the circuit breaker. Personally, I'd go through and ID every wire in that panel before removing it as an assembly. If you want to remove the circuit breaker, disconnect (lift) it off the battery first. Try to not have a loose, energized wire, that you have to tape up. Fumbling a hot wire leads to problems. Be careful, go slow, pay attention.
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Old 10-26-2020, 04:19 PM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rwnielsen View Post
Verify there is no power to the fuse panel and then disconnect the red wire from the load side of the circuit breaker. Personally, I'd go through and ID every wire in that panel before removing it as an assembly. If you want to remove the circuit breaker, disconnect (lift) it off the battery first. Try to not have a loose, energized wire, that you have to tape up. Fumbling a hot wire leads to problems. Be careful, go slow, pay attention.
Appreciate all your help so far on this! I had unplugged all of the harnesses from the fuse panel so only had the red power wire and a few ground wires remaining. I flipped the breaker (pushing in the red button so the reset tag appeared) then disconnected the power line from the panel and taped it. I managed to remove the entire panel after reconnecting the ground wires to the frame and everything still works just fine.

Is it safe to assume then that the red wire is no longer energized? I'm planning on leaving it in place until we figure out how best to use this secondary power system – maybe a stereo we're planning to add?

Here is a link to the wiring diagrams in case they're useful: https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...fh?usp=sharing

As far as I can tell though, I don't see a reference to that circuit breaker under the hood...
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Old 10-26-2020, 06:54 PM   #9
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I'll have a look at the schematic when I get back home and have a larger screen.
You can leave the red wire in place but it would be best to lift it off the breaker.
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Old 10-26-2020, 11:45 PM   #10
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Well from the looks of it the fist schematic matches the partial foot if the assy in your first post. I'm still learning a out school bus systems but that appears to be related to bus stops and train crossings with passengers. It may be entirely separate and independent from the normal operation of the bus.
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:47 AM   #11
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Thanks so much! Yep based on my limited understanding I came to the same conclusion. It looks like the Collins folks do a pretty good job of separating the flashers / child check system / buzzers / etc from the turn signals / brake lights / etc. We've completely removed the panel and everything still works as expected. I'm going to keep it as we can hopefully repurpose some of the components – I know for a Renogy DC-DC charger having a battery connection and a 12V source that gets activated when the vehicle is running will be necessary. So maybe this can be useful for that. Still have much to learn!
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