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Old 10-01-2017, 07:35 AM   #21
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Fairfield Bay, Arkansas
Posts: 159
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: Ward?
Engine: 8.2 liter ?
Rated Cap: 24 Passenger
I started by caulking the holes. That didn't work so good. Then I used pieces of window screen and caulked them up. Better but time consuming and left a bump on the floor. Finally wisened up and used the bondo with glass. Happy camper. Fast and sandable. Easy to do a bunch in a short time.

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Old 10-10-2017, 11:26 AM   #22
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Location: Vacaville, Ca
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Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
I put seamsealer on the bolt shank & drove the bolts back in the holes then covered the floor with 2" foam insulation.
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Old 10-10-2017, 07:33 PM   #23
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Location: Arizona
Posts: 44
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: Cat 7.2 C7 I6 Turbo
Rated Cap: 66 ankle biters
The guy that tore up my floor used Liquid Nails to fill in the holes (after cleaning the surface). He then glued the plywood to the floor and caulked the sides.
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Old 10-18-2017, 11:39 AM   #24
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I also used the Fiberglass on my floor and ended up loving it. If anyone else is debating what to use, I would recommend it.
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Old 10-20-2017, 03:17 PM   #25
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Location: Copperas Cove, Texas
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Year: 2003
Chassis: BlueBird
I sanded then painted the floor with a first coat of Rustoleum white. Afterwards, I took aluminum HVAC tape and cut it into small squares to tape over the holes in the floor, then did a second coat of paint over the entire floor hiding the tape. Laid down 1/8" inch aluminum backed styrofoam with spray adhesive, then topped it off by bolting a new layer of plywood to the sheet metal floor.
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Old 10-20-2017, 09:33 PM   #26
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Location: Houston, Texas
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Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
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Weld'em!!!
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Old 10-21-2017, 07:41 AM   #27
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 8.3 Cummins, 643
I used galvanized roofing caps and NP1 I'll probably do something similar on this bus when I get there. Welding would be the best but the underside of the weld should be painted after to prevent corrosion. My current bus has an undercoat to prevent rust which appears to have mostly worked. I wouldn't want to burn to much off.
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:06 PM   #28
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Here's a thought most are 5/16 or 3/8 . large headed pop rivet with tip dipped in silicone and popped in wet

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Old 12-10-2017, 05:26 PM   #29
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Year: 1999
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Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
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Epoxy and pennies.
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Old 12-14-2020, 06:57 PM   #30
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Posts: 124
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins
Rated Cap: 37'
Quote:
Originally Posted by tobeamiss View Post
That's awesome. I haven't put my flooring in yet...It's been a year now of stepping all over them everyday and those plugs are tough.
I really like the Henry's crystal clear 212 and find I'm using it alot during my build. But also, all I do is plug up the tube with a screwdriver...can pick it up to use it a couple weeks later and it's not clogged and good to go. I also use it as glue for the felt strips I put around the windows when insulating. And... I fill in all gaps where water might enter around the window. And...I run a fat line of it along the bottom edge of the windowsill before replacing the windows.
It's good stuff. If you make a mistake, wait for it to set and peel it off easily.
I can't say enough good things about it and the many ways I've used it. I might even name my bus Henry when I'm all through LOL

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Hello Tobeamiss -

Super helpful to read everyone;s methods for water prevention! Using Henry's, how are your windows holding up 4 years later?
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Old 01-23-2021, 11:38 AM   #31
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Hello Tobeamiss -



Super helpful to read everyone;s methods for water prevention! Using Henry's, how are your windows holding up 4 years later?
So far so good but I hate to jinx myself!
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Old 01-23-2021, 11:41 AM   #32
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Location: NY
Posts: 763
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and, sorry it took so long to reply..... you know, holidays and life...... ;D
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