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01-20-2014, 06:35 PM
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#1
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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How About these for waste tanks?
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01-20-2014, 10:09 PM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by allwthrrider
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What kind of toilet will you be using?
Plan on hard mounting, and dumping them, or filling and storing?
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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01-20-2014, 10:58 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
Quote:
Originally Posted by allwthrrider
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What kind of toilet will you be using?
Plan on hard mounting, and dumping them, or filling and storing?
Nat
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I have a mercerating toilet , hard mounting & dumping
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01-21-2014, 10:29 AM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,489
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/AT545
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
I'm planning on using something similar. I'm only using them for grey water, not black. My concern is that the tanks will have an inch or two at the bottom which will not drain, since the bung holes are not on the very edge of the barrel. I think you would have to do a fair amount of flushing to get them reasonably clean and if solids start building up it would be difficult to get them out. I got my barrels really cheap though, and I've decided to accept the risks.
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01-21-2014, 10:32 AM
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#5
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: MNT CITY TN
Posts: 5,158
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
I kinda figured that if solids build up due to the lip, that after awhile there will be a ramp for the...ugh...icky stuff to slid out on
__________________
Our build La Tortuga
Accept the challenges so that you can feel the exhilaration of victory.
George S. Patton
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01-21-2014, 10:59 AM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Dan
I'm planning on using something similar. I'm only using them for grey water, not black. My concern is that the tanks will have an inch or two at the bottom which will not drain, since the bung holes are not on the very edge of the barrel. I think you would have to do a fair amount of flushing to get them reasonably clean and if solids start building up it would be difficult to get them out. I got my barrels really cheap though, and I've decided to accept the risks.
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I thought of that also, I was thinking of mounting with a slight fwd angle to the drain hole something like a 3in drop & also using a mercerizing pump on the drain line
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01-21-2014, 12:34 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,489
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/AT545
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bansil
I kinda figured that if solids build up due to the lip, that after awhile there will be a ramp for the...ugh...icky stuff to slid out on 
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Aw, man! Here I am eating lunch and then... I get THAT visual! Ewwwww!! I shouldn't have waded into this crappy conversation to begin with!
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01-22-2014, 12:11 AM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
Them are the ones with the two, 2" bungs in them? If your macerating toilet connections are that small, your in luck. If not, read the following.
After mounting your tanks at about 5 degrees of tilt, (toilet fill hole will be the highest point when done) with the existing bungs in a vertical position from each other, mark a spot 6" by 6" half way down the drum at the now top, (was the side). Cut that square out with a saws all. Buy two 3" abs bulkhead fittings. Use the right size hole saw and cut out the top 2 hole. This is where you will install the first 3" bulkhead fitting, and this will be the one you connect the toilet to. At the opposite end ( used to be the bottom of the drum) as close to the bottom as possible while still having room for the Bulkhead fitting, cut one more hole with the hole saw. This will be your drain. Bottom 2" port gets permanently sealed. Tank venting is done either by installing a 1/2 bulkhead fitting, or T off the toilet connection between the toilet and the tank. Now to reseal your access hole, you need to sacrifice one drum to seal the rest. Using a spare drum ( you should have a few at that price) Cut a piece 10" by 10" out of the side with a saws all. This will be your patch for the access hole. Use some nice coarse sand paper and rough up your overlaps. Apply some good silicone, and screw down every 2" to get a good seal. For this you will need some number 10 coarse thread pan head screws.
3" ABS Bulkhead fittings.
Hope this helps.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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01-22-2014, 10:51 AM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Re: How About these for waste tanks?
Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
Them are the ones with the two, 2" bungs in them? If your macerating toilet connections are that small, your in luck. If not, read the following.
After mounting your tanks at about 5 degrees of tilt, (toilet fill hole will be the highest point when done) with the existing bungs in a vertical position from each other, mark a spot 6" by 6" half way down the drum at the now top, (was the side). Cut that square out with a saws all. Buy two 3" abs bulkhead fittings. Use the right size hole saw and cut out the top 2 hole. This is where you will install the first 3" bulkhead fitting, and this will be the one you connect the toilet to. At the opposite end ( used to be the bottom of the drum) as close to the bottom as possible while still having room for the Bulkhead fitting, cut one more hole with the hole saw. This will be your drain. Bottom 2" port gets permanently sealed. Tank venting is done either by installing a 1/2 bulkhead fitting, or T off the toilet connection between the toilet and the tank. Now to reseal your access hole, you need to sacrifice one drum to seal the rest. Using a spare drum ( you should have a few at that price) Cut a piece 10" by 10" out of the side with a saws all. This will be your patch for the access hole. Use some nice coarse sand paper and rough up your overlaps. Apply some good silicone, and screw down every 2" to get a good seal. For this you will need some number 10 coarse thread pan head screws.
3" ABS Bulkhead fittings.
Hope this helps.
Nat
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Nice thanks, waiting for the guy to get back to me
Stuart
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