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Old 05-07-2018, 08:00 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
No matter what the description does or doesn't say. The fine print "highly recommends physical inspection of the item as it is being sold AS IS. Fortunately for me the bus was at the school yard and not an auction lot where I doubt you get cut much slack. They could have told me to pound sand and get my bus off their lot. But instead I was refunded the full sale price, auction fee, and bidders fee.
That's awesome! I do hope I get the bus more so than the money, but from your experience and what the school has said so far it seems like I'm not going to get screwed (aside from driving 1000 and getting hotels and shelling out for a mechanic)

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Old 05-07-2018, 08:01 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
No matter what the description does or doesn't say. The fine print "highly recommends physical inspection of the item as it is being sold AS IS. Fortunately for me the bus was at the school yard and not an auction lot where I doubt you get cut much slack. They could have told me to pound sand and get my bus off their lot. But instead I was refunded the full sale price, auction fee, and bidders fee.
Affirmative statements in an auction listing are part of the terms of the sale. Inspections are always recommended, and items are usually sold "as is".

But if the seller lists an item as "starts with a boost", and it doesn't, the seller has misrepresented the vehicle.

Besides which, it's actually quite rare to be allowed to start a vehicle during these inspections. Many auctions say that.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:26 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by Whatthefak View Post
I like this bus, alot. I love the price.
That said I'm talking to the school district in the morning, if they will give me some money back I'll pay the mechanic to fix it or if they will have their mechanic fix it I'd love to take it home. I'm 1000 miles from home with limited tools so I'm short options.
They advertised it as runs. It does not. So if they will work with me on either the price or the "runs" it's gonna be mine, if not it's a battle for my money back
I doubt they'll fight you too hard if its not a Cummins and doesn't start. Should be able to get a full refund.
But I do feel for you in your predicament- sometime you have to "make lemonade".

If all the solenoids are working, you're getting a loud click when you turn the key... Follow the power to the starter and other stuff...
I'm NO electrician AT ALL. Only basing this on stuff I've had happen with buses. I've gotten a lot of help from the forum. Chris, BlackJohn, and lots of others have taught me to be more confident.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:36 PM   #64
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Oh also said it was a Cummins it's a cat
Said 160k it's 250k
Neither of those is a deal breaker for me, I've had nothing but great experience with cats in big trucks and it looks great oils is nice trans fluid is nice even sitting for two years.
I'd still change them just because

Idk if they will relist it if I'm offering to still take it for less or at the same price if their mechanics make it run, hope not I really hope they will get her going
Medium duty Cats aren't quite as awesome as the REAL stuff.
I've driven a bus with a 3126 and it was pretty decent. Nice sound, IMO.
I can barely afford to fix my IC, a Cat could bankrupt a guy like me lol.

If its been sitting, shine a light in the fuel tank and check for rust. A rusty tank can be a pita to replace. Ask me how I know lol. My bus sat for two years with half a tank. top half is RUSTY.

Seems to me the school should get it running asap, you shouldn't have to be paying money to make the bus match the description.
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:54 PM   #65
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Medium duty Cats aren't quite as awesome as the REAL stuff.
I've driven a bus with a 3126 and it was pretty decent. Nice sound, IMO.
I can barely afford to fix my IC, a Cat could bankrupt a guy like me lol.

If its been sitting, shine a light in the fuel tank and check for rust. A rusty tank can be a pita to replace. Ask me how I know lol. My bus sat for two years with half a tank. top half is RUSTY.

Seems to me the school should get it running asap, you shouldn't have to be paying money to make the bus match the description.
It is the 3126 I believe. I have a rockstar mechanic in Wisconsin, if I can get it home I'm good. He has a truck shop and can order my parts and he will let me do the work and walk me through the stuff I don't know.

The bus has almost a full tank, I was hoping to swap it out for a larger one that's aluminum off one of the old peterbuilts or a Mack dumptruck that are doa in the shop back home
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Old 05-07-2018, 09:58 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Whatthefak View Post
It is the 3126 I believe. I have a rockstar mechanic in Wisconsin, if I can get it home I'm good. He has a truck shop and can order my parts and he will let me do the work and walk me through the stuff I don't know.

The bus has almost a full tank, I was hoping to swap it out for a larger one that's aluminum off one of the old peterbuilts or a Mack dumptruck that are doa in the shop back home
Oh, man- we must think a lot alike!

I'm all about putting as much "trucker" stuff on my bus as I can find!
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Old 05-07-2018, 10:09 PM   #67
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Speaking of that, can I swap tires out to 11r 22.5?
I hear tire prices on here and I know I can get the size we run on truck for less

Plus I could get some nice aluminum rims pretty cheap
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Old 05-08-2018, 05:52 AM   #68
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Speaking of that, can I swap tires out to 11r 22.5?
I hear tire prices on here and I know I can get the size we run on truck for less

Plus I could get some nice aluminum rims pretty cheap
Yeah man.
I'm looking for a set of alloys for my bus. At LEAST on the front wheels!
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:05 AM   #69
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what size tire is on it now? and look at the rim it should be stamped as to what the width is. 8.25 width on 22.5 rims is common, but would check and know for sure. If you look up tires on line look at the specs and it will say what size rim is needed for the tire you want.
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Old 05-08-2018, 06:08 AM   #70
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what size tire is on it now? and look at the rim it should be stamped as to what the width is. 8.25 width on 22.5 rims is common, but would check and know for sure. If you look up tires on line look at the specs and it will say what size rim is needed for the tire you want.
Correct.
11R's will go on 7.5" wide wheels too.
Most full size buses come with 11R's.
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:01 AM   #71
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These say 75 225 Goodyear

Cb I'll let you know what I find for price through my guy on used rims
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:04 AM   #72
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as i think about this more.. even though this is a flat nose bus you still have 2 distinct power systems.. 'Body' Power.. (the solenoids ECCB showed) and 'Chassis' Power.. CHassis power is what is missing here.. thats what ciontrols the ECM, TCM, and dashboard. there is sometimes distinctly separate fuse panels..

the 3126 is a HEUI engine, there is no fuel solenoid, the ECM fires the injectors so no fuel smell means the ECM is likely not powering.. we knowe the TCM isnt powering..

there is likely a Power relay that feeds the chassis power which is not getting juice.. any relays in or around the engine bay are the ones to probably be looking at and the associated wire colors going to... most all relays are similar.. and if you unplug a relay there will be terminal numbers listed on them. '86, 30, 87a' etc.. you may be able to jumper the coil side of a relay makred 'power' or 'ecm'.. I dont know thomas but my guess is like navistar they probably try to somewhat separate the power systems..

you may be able to call thomas and see if they can email you the PDF's of the wiring circuits for ECM, TCM power...

just some thoughts..
-Christopher
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:07 AM   #73
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as i think about this more.. even though this is a flat nose bus you still have 2 distinct power systems.. 'Body' Power.. (the solenoids ECCB showed) and 'Chassis' Power.. CHassis power is what is missing here.. thats what ciontrols the ECM, TCM, and dashboard. there is sometimes distinctly separate fuse panels..

the 3126 is a HEUI engine, there is no fuel solenoid, the ECM fires the injectors so no fuel smell means the ECM is likely not powering.. we knowe the TCM isnt powering..

there is likely a Power relay that feeds the chassis power which is not getting juice.. any relays in or around the engine bay are the ones to probably be looking at and the associated wire colors going to... most all relays are similar.. and if you unplug a relay there will be terminal numbers listed on them. '86, 30, 87a' etc.. you may be able to jumper the coil side of a relay makred 'power' or 'ecm'.. I dont know thomas but my guess is like navistar they probably try to somewhat separate the power systems..

you may be able to call thomas and see if they can email you the PDF's of the wiring circuits for ECM, TCM power...

just some thoughts..
-Christopher
That makes sense, yes everything is separate.
Thomas sent me all the diagrams for my year, every possible configuration, it's like 250 pages
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Old 05-08-2018, 07:18 AM   #74
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super!! what we are looking for is the power relay circuit most likely.. start to follow it on the diagram from the ignition switch and see if it feeds a relay which powers the ECM and TCM.. I might be able to find it if I had a copy of the diagrams.. its easier for me to visualize it than to describe it..

I do know that the ECM and TCM require both VBAT (which is constant power even with key off) and IGN (which is power on at ignition time).. its possible that the fuse or wire which goes to VBAT has been missed.. it woiuld likely not be a karge wire as its just keepalive power for the computers.. but without it the computers will fail to operate... (at least I know for sure the Transmission one wont.. and a Navistar ECM wont.. so am thinking CAT is similar)..

-Christopher
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:15 AM   #75
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So....

No go on getting them to start it, no go on getting part of my money back.

I'm holding a little hope Christopher comes up with an idea, short of that they said they'd give my money back.

Don't really want to leave without this bus, but I gotta get back for work and can't throw to much money at getting it started
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:44 AM   #76
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I think Christopher has hit the nail on the head.

When you turn on the key you are not getting juice to the chassis power circuits.

As I was writing this response it occurred to me you are forgetting one of the very easy to fix problems.

RE buses have a rear start panel. On that panel there is a switch that turns off the start circuit to the driver's key so that if someone is working in the back no one can get in and start the engine while the mechanic has their head in the engine compartment.

I haven't read where you have tried starting the bus from the back. You may want to try that.

The wiring for the driver's key switch goes from the front to the rear start panel. At the rear start panel there is a switch to turn off the power from the front. From that switch the signal goes to a solenoid that turns on the power to the chassis electrics that will turn on the ECM and TCM. It will also have another solenoid that will energize the starter.

You need to follow the wiring diagram to discover where the juice is getting stopped up. Even on a bus with electronics the variables are pretty few if nothing is getting juice.

Good luck and keep us posted as to your progress.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:51 AM   #77
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I have tried starting from the back, and wires are real hard to follow in this rats nest of wires
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Old 05-08-2018, 01:13 PM   #78
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What about power to the rear control panel?

You should be able to see if there is juice going to the panel.

When you flip the switch you should then have power going on downstream.

If there is a faulty switch on the rear panel it won't allow juice to go downstream regardless of which position the switch is switched.

I had a Thomas RE with a Cat and that switch failed and I wasn't able to start the bus from either position.

Because it isn't buried like the driver's position switch it might be easier to troubleshoot from the rear panel.

Since lights and buzzers work up front you know you have juice in the system.

All you need to discover is what is blocking the juice from going downstream.

After thinking about it I would bet that the problem is in the back panel. Either the switch has failed or the connection from the rear switch to the chassis electrical solenoid has failed. All of those connections are in the rear panel. The front switch goes to the starter through the rear panel where the lock out switch is located. From there the juice flows downstream to the chassis solenoid. It is also from there that the juice flows to the starter solenoid.

You need to find the chassis electrical solenoid to discover if by jumping it you can get all of the lights to light up and get the starter to turn.
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Old 05-08-2018, 03:57 PM   #79
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After fighting for a day more than I wanted and spending $ on two mechanics and still no closer, I have walked away.
They did not have any problems giving my money back.
14 hour drive each way and two days on this thing is rough to leave with nothing.
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Old 05-08-2018, 04:09 PM   #80
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its tough without a meter to start going through each circuit and pin piece by piece.. ive had to do it before. WITH a meter and its tough to do.. most likely the school knocked something loose when they removed their video equipment, 2 way radio, etc..

-Christopher
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