Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-11-2019, 09:12 PM   #21
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Something like this looks interesting: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Drill-Am...2500/304236909

I second the wrist thing. I had to cut six 2" holes in an 1/8" plate for my new LED lights and managed to bend the pilot bit while wrenching my hand nicely. The problem was the pilot bit breaking through and the saw bit suddenly catching, as another user here mentioned. Definitely better to drill the pilot hole separately.

__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2019, 04:58 PM   #22
Bus Nut
 
sportyrick's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Location: mid Mo.
Posts: 869
Year: 1976
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: F33695
Engine: 427 chevy converted to 466
Rated Cap: 84
If wanting a square hole by using a sabre or sawzall drill an appropriate size hole per blade size at each corner to help starting and turning, use coolant and/or a slow speed, heat kills saw blades. A circular saw with carbide teeth or a plain steel blade reversed (friction saw) will do the job nicely also, ear protection is mandatory, noise is unbelievable.
sportyrick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2019, 05:03 PM   #23
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by sportyrick View Post
If wanting a square hole by using a sabre or sawzall drill an appropriate size hole per blade size at each corner to help starting and turning, use coolant and/or a slow speed, heat kills saw blades. A circular saw with carbide teeth or a plain steel blade reversed (friction saw) will do the job nicely also, ear protection is mandatory, noise is unbelievable.
Square holes I use a cut off wheel on an angle grinder and finish with jig saw or sawzall.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-13-2019, 05:45 PM   #24
Bus Geek
 
Jolly Roger bus 223's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 2,973
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
been there done that?once? for over twenty years now?
you will kill a cordless with anything over 1 inch.
a 1/2 inch drill is definitely the one to use.
the handle screws into the drill on either side and on some brands the top.
put the handle in the side of the drill where you can let the framing or wall hold the handle for when the hole saw grabs/not an if and put your free hand work the drill.
when the hole saw breaks through the metal regardless of thickness it will start binding because it is finding purchase/resistance in one spot because that is where your hands pressure was or you were leaning in out or whatever but when it starts grabbing you just start rocking it around the opening you are cutting and if it wants to hang up towards the end the you put the drill in reverse and finish the cut.
alot of the older 1/2 inch drills didnt have a reverse so check your.
for 26/20 guage metal a standard skill saw with the blade turned backwards will make good square cuts.
for hole saws for steel i have had the most longevity out of carbide tipped bits and working in commercial construction i love the milwaukee stuff that aint cheap but i dont pay for it.
Lennox gold is good .
have fun
Jolly Roger bus 223 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 04:27 PM   #25
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Eugene, OR
Posts: 42
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
3/4" plate is a different beast from the 12 gauge channel that makes up a bus floor. A bi-metal hole saw should be sufficient. Using fire on galvanized metal is going to make a toxic cloud I wouldn't want to see inside a bus, personally.
Artor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-16-2019, 04:36 PM   #26
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,401
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
If I am not the one operating the angle grinder it can cut some very precise holes.

I had a gent, Brian, helping me with the sheet metal on the back of my bus. We needed to cut the "bulkhead" in the back from 12 gauge steel. We already had the break on the bottom of the piece so the curved top needed to be spot on.

I was freeking amazed when we set the piece in place. It looked like it was laser cut to fit.

The tool is important but the skill of the operator is the key.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 04:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.