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Old 05-31-2010, 02:21 PM   #1
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How do we remove the windows?

We were told they just pop out real easy, but we haven't been able to figure out how to "easily pop them out"
Any info would help out greatly.

tks
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Old 05-31-2010, 08:57 PM   #2
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Re: How do we remove the windows?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty
If you've removed the screws all that's holding them in is sealant, pry them out....just be careful if you plan to re-use them. I think someone posted they used a heat-gun to soften the sealer which made the process easier for them.

Smitty
I see two screws one on each side, thats all I can find, they seem to just keep the lower window in, Ill try tommoro and see if I can get the frame out, looks like there really glued in good!!
tks
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Old 06-01-2010, 12:19 AM   #3
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Re: How do we remove the windows?

Heat gun! That's what I used to soften the adhesive. Heat them up good around the edges and they pull out a lot easier.
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:43 PM   #4
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Re: How do we remove the windows?

I got figured out, they poped out brute force and ignorance!! we dont need no stinken heat gun!!!

after looking real hard at them I figured it was just the caulking holding them in , with a bit movement they came right out>

thats a bunch for all the help with this.
Ill have more questions soon

gbstewart
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Old 06-03-2010, 09:11 AM   #5
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Re: How do we remove the windows?

We made sure every screw was unscrewed and even took out a few screws from the top metal above the windows so we could slide them out. Then we used a crowbar and bent them out, this is what it looked like.

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Old 11-04-2019, 03:02 PM   #6
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Removing Screws Between Windows

I know this thread is 9 years old, but I figured I would ask the question here first before starting a new thread...


I'm at the stage of removing the windows, but I cannot get the bottom 2 screws out of almost every window. I wanted to re-use the black metal piece, so I don't really want to go at with a tool that would damage the metal. I don't have any apparent rust, so it isn't like I'm battling rusted or stripped screws. And I am using a DeWalt power screw driver/drill. I also tried putting WD40 on the screws to see if that would loosen them.


Does anyone have any suggestions?


The upper screws were also very tight, but with enough pressure on the power screwdriver, those came out.


Thanks!
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Old 11-04-2019, 03:32 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by cofrari View Post
I know this thread is 9 years old, but I figured I would ask the question here first before starting a new thread...


I'm at the stage of removing the windows, but I cannot get the bottom 2 screws out of almost every window. I wanted to re-use the black metal piece, so I don't really want to go at with a tool that would damage the metal. I don't have any apparent rust, so it isn't like I'm battling rusted or stripped screws. And I am using a DeWalt power screw driver/drill. I also tried putting WD40 on the screws to see if that would loosen them.


Does anyone have any suggestions?


The upper screws were also very tight, but with enough pressure on the power screwdriver, those came out.


Thanks!
You need an impact driver. Or a ratchet with sufficient leverage and a #2 bit.

A lot of the screws on my bus were rusted stuck with the screw head stripped, and for these I used an angle grinder to cut a notch across the top so I could turn them with a big regular screwdriver. As you say yours does not appear to be rusted at all so there's probably no need for you to do that.
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Old 11-04-2019, 05:01 PM   #8
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Stubborn screws just need a whack on the head with a hammer, then they whiz right out. You're trying to break free a rusted connection.
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Old 11-04-2019, 08:10 PM   #9
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I had a lot of screws that wouldn't budge on my bus. I used a cutting wheel to make a deep slot in the screw head I could get a sturdy screwdriver in. That gave me enough non-slip leverage to back them out normally.
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Old 11-04-2019, 08:37 PM   #10
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Is it possible they used loctite to keep kids from 'stealing' the screws?

Loctites chemical bond will be broken with 400'F. Pencil torch is ideal for this -- certainly worth trying on at least one to see if it makes a (big) difference.

Otherwise, use an impact driver.
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Old 11-04-2019, 08:40 PM   #11
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I'm pretty certain nobody used Loctite on a random selection of the 20,000 screws I removed. I think it's just rust or the enamel paint seizing up the threads. The cutting wheel and screwdriver are quick, easy, and 100% reliable on the first try.
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Old 11-04-2019, 09:00 PM   #12
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I know thoe screws can be pesky. On my 2700 mile ride home all I had was the factory FM/Casette, with the speakers waaay back there. I finally had a brain fart and said I'll just grab 6' of wire and unscrew a speaker and just use it's magnet to pop it on the cieling right above my head, Stopped at a Walmart and bought a $2 screwdriver. Could not budge those freakin screws, gave up.
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Old 11-05-2019, 07:07 AM   #13
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I just bought an impact driver online which I'll pick up this afternoon. Never knew what an Impact Driver was, but after watching a 6-minute YouTube video on the differences between an impact driver and a power drill, it seems like a tool you can't live without. Thanks for the tip on that, and hopefully that will work. Hopefully I'll post a successful reply to this thread this afternoon!
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Old 11-05-2019, 10:06 AM   #14
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Love my 1/4" impact driver.. im in the process of taking apart and restoring a nearly 42 year old bus.. its ru. rails are screwed on and have a couple coats of paint.. impact makes short work of those!
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Old 11-05-2019, 10:50 AM   #15
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Most of my youtube videos include a note about how the 1/4 inch impact is my most used tool in bus building. Hard to imagine going back. Make sure you have #2 and #3 phillips bits as a #2 bit will strip out a #3 screw and a #3 bit won't fit in a #2 screw!
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Old 11-07-2019, 07:56 AM   #16
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Tried out my new Impact Driver last night and I was amazed how easily the window screws came out! I never would have thought that the impact driver would work that much better than a typical power drill/screwdriver.


Thanks for the great advice!
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Old 12-11-2020, 02:09 PM   #17
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windows removal and replacement

Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
Love my 1/4" impact driver.. im in the process of taking apart and restoring a nearly 42 year old bus.. its ru. rails are screwed on and have a couple coats of paint.. impact makes short work of those!
Hell All -

SO far, the convos on removing windows have been super helpful! I'm a little confused on how to put them back in though, because in other posts, people are talking about welding and metal and new rivets and it sounds like you have to literally rebuild windows? We just wanted to remove the windows, and give them new sealing, and put back in.

Anyone have the patience to explain this to me?

Thankyou!! <3
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Old 12-11-2020, 07:18 PM   #18
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Hell All -

SO far, the convos on removing windows have been super helpful! I'm a little confused on how to put them back in though, because in other posts, people are talking about welding and metal and new rivets and it sounds like you have to literally rebuild windows? We just wanted to remove the windows, and give them new sealing, and put back in.

Anyone have the patience to explain this to me?

Thankyou!! <3
People talking about welding and new rivets and whatnot are doing a roof raise, or deleting some windows and skinning them over, or replacing the original windows with RV windows. You don't have to do any of that sort of thing to take the windows out, clean them and reseat/reseal them. They're generally just press-fit into openings in the bus body and held in place by two main screws (that also hold the neighboring window in place) and one smaller one at the bottom.

When you're resealing the windows, you of course have to seal the lines where the window meets the bus (both sides and bottom), but to get my leaks to completely stop I also had to seal the edges of the outer sill (water will pool here when the bus is parked on a slope) and also seal over the gasket that holds the glass pane in its little frame (these tend to start leaking in older windows).
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Old 12-11-2020, 08:21 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
People talking about welding and new rivets and whatnot are doing a roof raise, or deleting some windows and skinning them over, or replacing the original windows with RV windows. You don't have to do any of that sort of thing to take the windows out, clean them and reseat/reseal them. They're generally just press-fit into openings in the bus body and held in place by two main screws (that also hold the neighboring window in place) and one smaller one at the bottom.

When you're resealing the windows, you of course have to seal the lines where the window meets the bus (both sides and bottom), but to get my leaks to completely stop I also had to seal the edges of the outer sill (water will pool here when the bus is parked on a slope) and also seal over the gasket that holds the glass pane in its little frame (these tend to start leaking in older windows).
Thankyou Musigenesis! We definitely do not want a moldy wet bus, will to do whatever it takes to make is safe and dry.
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Old 12-12-2020, 09:38 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
People talking about welding and new rivets and whatnot are doing a roof raise, or deleting some windows and skinning them over, or replacing the original windows with RV windows. You don't have to do any of that sort of thing to take the windows out, clean them and reseat/reseal them. They're generally just press-fit into openings in the bus body and held in place by two main screws (that also hold the neighboring window in place) and one smaller one at the bottom.

When you're resealing the windows, you of course have to seal the lines where the window meets the bus (both sides and bottom), but to get my leaks to completely stop I also had to seal the edges of the outer sill (water will pool here when the bus is parked on a slope) and also seal over the gasket that holds the glass pane in its little frame (these tend to start leaking in older windows).
Do you remember what sealant brand/type you used for the windows? And did you have to seal the screw holes (for example, by putting epoxy on the screw before screwing it in)?
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