Re: How many gallons - Ace Rust Stop
I also used ACE Rust Stop and won't again. I did not thin. I rolled on paint. My roof was a different material (Henry's SolarFlex - full bucket). I honestly don't remember and the only mention of the specific paint in my spreadsheet was for a final quart as I needed just a little extra. I know it was multiple gallons. I also used a lot of mineral spirits to clean my brushes and me. Proximity to a shower would have been nice as the mineral spirits cause me to blister and makes me sick.
The Rust Stop has not held up to the NM weather. NM is very rough on paint. It has faded several shades. The difference is very noticable. I could tell, by looking at it, that the paint had faded but until I put a paint chip that I had kept up next to it, I did not realize how much. For a few touchups needed, I ended up getting a close match using a fan deck I have. I am not happy with the Rust Stop. I used an oil based paint because I did not want to take the time to oil prime over the previous oil paint. If I had it to do over again (and I will in a couple of years), I would oil prime and then use a latex house paint. Latex is much easier to work with.
With the advances they have made in paint over the last few years and the additional knowledge I have acquired from the multitude of classes I have to take at Home Depot (I'm a certified paint associate and work the paint desk fulltime), I know a lot more about the oil and latex paints. I will be using the Marquee Exterior Latex paint on our bus and rolling on again. It's a one coat coverage (using their marquee colours), sheds dirt (the bus currently attracts and holds dirt like a magnet) and holds up to the weather brillantly.
Don't forget, with any paint, PREP IS EVERYTHING! Don't skimp on prepwork. Sand, Prime as needed. Don't paint in high temps (nothing over 90F and not more than 80F is better) or in wind.