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03-23-2016, 11:46 AM
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#1
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Almost There
Join Date: Sep 2011
Posts: 77
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How to attach walls?
How to attach walls to a bus?
I am so 100% confused, Iv had a great stripped down bis for 5 years now with new floor. But I cant make the first "Cut" I cant make a line for ****. I have a garage with all power tools.
Do you screw the wall dividers into the floor or ceiling?
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03-23-2016, 02:14 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,361
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
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my floor is plywood and my walls have 2x4s horizontally.
the partitions in my bus are only attached to the floor and wall. i used a woodworking tool called "kreg jig"...... makes it easy
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03-23-2016, 02:20 PM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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My walls have all been figured to come out under a rib, so I can anchor to ceiling floor or walls, I am a firm believer of over kill, if one screw will hold something then 2 will hold it better.
Good luck and keep us posted
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-27-2016, 10:02 AM
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#4
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Here is how I got the sides in. Hope this helps.
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04-13-2016, 09:51 AM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
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RE: walls/partitions dilemma
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoolydoo
My walls have all been figured to come out under a rib, so I can anchor to ceiling floor or walls, I am a firm believer of over kill, if one screw will hold something then 2 will hold it better.
Good luck and keep us posted
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As i don't have a very deep subfloor or walls (subfloor is only one sheet or 1/4" plywood, walls are original bus thickness/direct sheetmetal) i thought about either using some type of an anchor to secure in wooden bases to screw partitions onto, or mount partitions directly using either 90degree corners (like those for gates/fences), or longer segments of 90degree metal strips (possibly aluminum for easy drilling/lighter mat'l).
Reason for the anchor is I've read other threads where the use of self-tapping sheet metal screws ONLY for attaching partitions and cabinet in the long run did not last. Things came lose...
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04-13-2016, 11:58 AM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Screws wouldn't last on something that flexes frequently. There's lots of metal anchors brackets at the home store that don't cost much and won't interfere with your build.
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04-13-2016, 12:05 PM
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#7
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
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RE: screws vs anchors
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robin97396
Screws wouldn't last on something that flexes frequently. There's lots of metal anchors brackets at the home store that don't cost much and won't interfere with your build.
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Exactly the feeling i got by reading other threads...
I'll go look today at the orange box store
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04-13-2016, 12:07 PM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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My whole bus body ('1946 Wayne) is held together with big, fat sheetmetal screws. Not a rivet anywhere. You just have to let them rust in place long enough to secure them.
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04-13-2016, 12:24 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Tango, I'm sure your screw are quite secure. Metal to metal screws should hold up good. Putting wood partitions into a bus body that is meant to flex is where the problems begin. Sure you can build your bus partitions with screws, and you may never have problems. Most of us here seem to be aiming for a super adequacy in our builds.
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04-13-2016, 01:47 PM
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#10
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 447
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International
Engine: Navistar 5.9 Diesel
Rated Cap: A butt-load...
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I'm sure we'd all agree not to use those plastic anchors, even if rating is 100lb.
First point against those that comes to mind is the barb from the drilled sheet metal cutting and splitting the plastic over time...so i'm thinking either toggle bolts, or simply (in my case won't need many) get regular bolts long enough to go through your mounts/blocks/2x4s/framing and floor, and use compression washers for the extra "lock".
With this last option, me thinks, you can measure pretty close how long of a bolt you'll need, adjust the coutersink to make it flush, and not have 3" of the bold sticking at the bottom...in case you need to put a tank or something else at the bottom.
Am i overthinking this?
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04-13-2016, 02:16 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
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Yes we can agree not to use plastic anchors, unless you're hanging pics on the wall.
I like lag bolts pretty well for attaching to floors, walls and ceilings, mostly because it's a one man operation to install. I guess that's just a large screw, isn't it. I'm still planning to use the building ties as reinforcement sold at the home store. The steel ones.
You might be overthinking it. It depends on if your thinking is successful or not. There's always room for improvement in everybody's technique, and most of us here like to learn from other people's mistakes. That's what's so great about sharing like this daily while we're literally thousands of miles apart in many instances.
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