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04-18-2023, 11:05 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 130
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9
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How To Bend Skin Sheet Metal Without A Brake
Hey everyone, we are beginning the skinning process now. I’ve watched and rewatched every roof raise video I could find and have a decent idea of the overall process. The only part I’m still weary on is how to bend the metal to the back of the bus. My raise is above the back door which is where I’m starting. I have no metal fab equipment where I’m at so currently I have the sheet clamped to the lower metal piece above the door and it’s ratchet strapped across the back. The bend itself is only 3 or so inches from start to finish. Unfortunately though, it won’t bend well as I currently have it.
See these photos: https://imgur.com/a/PUM2j5x https://imgur.com/a/PUM2j5x
It’s wanting to bow out above the side windows since I can’t get a clamp in there. I’d appreciate Any suggestions on how to get it flush against the back. Im also curious on whether that’s even necessary or if it’ll just automatically flatten out once I begin cleco/riveting.
P.s. Ross I watched your raise playlist and gleaned a lot. I was horrified though at the chain hoist you used to pull the bends around lol. I was already nervous pumping the ratchet straps as they got tighter fearing they’d snap. I think I would’ve had a heart attack if I was doing it with a big ol chain secured with vice grips!
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04-19-2023, 12:17 AM
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#2
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Rapid City, SD
Posts: 993
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: CS RE
Engine: ISC 8.3 L 260 hp
Rated Cap: 36
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You could find a tube or pipe that has a similar radius to the bend you have to make and then bend the metal around it.
Ted
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04-19-2023, 10:04 AM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Tx.
Posts: 2,422
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
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Take a look at the pics in my roof raise, post #41 -> build thread.
I used ratchet straps and used 2x4 & 4x4 lumber. Worked like a dream for me,
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04-19-2023, 11:38 AM
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#4
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 130
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9
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I checked out your pics and like the wood idea. I started to do that last night but the only 2x4 I had that was long enough was pretty badly warped. I do have a 20’ 1.25” square tubing I can use to hold it flush against the bottom of the seam. I just can’t get it in place by myself (tried desperately last night tho). Eventually ended with using C-clamps on the bottom and ratcheting across the width of the panel. Will come this afternoon and plan to try and push the metal up under the lip of the roof and see how it lines up. I’m a bit unsure how to secure the metal for when I begin drilling the holes. It seems I’ll have to drill from the inside of the bus out, but then I’ve found the sheet metal to occasionally pop out and away from the bus which causes imperfect holes and occasionally rips out the surrounding clecos. There’s just not the space to clamp it down. I’m not sure how to remedy that. Maybe vertical ratchet straps like in your picture. I’m curious- how did you attach the straps at the top of the bus? What’re they holding on to?
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04-19-2023, 04:41 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Central Tx.
Posts: 2,422
Year: 1999
Chassis: Amtran / International
Engine: DT466E HT 250HP - Md3060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick5272
I checked out your pics and like the wood idea. I started to do that last night but the only 2x4 I had that was long enough was pretty badly warped. I do have a 20’ 1.25” square tubing I can use to hold it flush against the bottom of the seam. I just can’t get it in place by myself (tried desperately last night tho). Eventually ended with using C-clamps on the bottom and ratcheting across the width of the panel. Will come this afternoon and plan to try and push the metal up under the lip of the roof and see how it lines up. I’m a bit unsure how to secure the metal for when I begin drilling the holes. It seems I’ll have to drill from the inside of the bus out, but then I’ve found the sheet metal to occasionally pop out and away from the bus which causes imperfect holes and occasionally rips out the surrounding clecos. There’s just not the space to clamp it down. I’m not sure how to remedy that. Maybe vertical ratchet straps like in your picture. I’m curious- how did you attach the straps at the top of the bus? What’re they holding on to?
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Try using 4x4’s.
Cleco’s are great but iused self tapping screws first to hold everything in place then i went back and replaced them all with rivets, one by one so the panel wouldn ‘t shift on me.
Also, more pics on posts 55 & 60, shows how i used the lumber.
I attached the straps using a chain across the roof and also fixing them to the ribs.
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04-19-2023, 05:49 PM
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#6
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: Swansboro,NC
Posts: 3,124
Year: 86
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford B700
Engine: 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
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if you want to drive six hours down to swansboro,nc i have a piece of 30" culvert pipe you can have to bend the edges.
used to use it for my dog to play in and on but he doesnt do that anymore.
its yours if you want it.
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04-20-2023, 11:08 PM
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#7
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 130
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9
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Appreciate that Jolly Roger but I went with a 3” piece of PVC from Home Depot and used 4x4s and a crap ton of clamps to hold it in place. Worked pretty well. The metal is currently hanging with a few sheet metal screws. The bends weren’t perfect so it’s a little forced into place but I’m hoping it’ll be fine.
When did you all apply seam sealer? Did you do it before riveting or after?
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04-20-2023, 11:12 PM
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#8
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 130
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9
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04-21-2023, 12:17 AM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,030
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nick5272
When did you all apply seam sealer? Did you do it before riveting or after?
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Ideally you apply seam sealer before riveting, so that it's pinched between the two pieces of metal and squeezed out somewhat by the rivets. This way the sealer acts like a gasket that is held in place mechanically instead of relying entirely on its adhesive properties as is the case when you apply it afterwards. But it's not the end of the world to apply it afterwards.
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04-23-2023, 02:43 PM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Dec 2022
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 130
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000
Engine: Cummins 5.9
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We should be able to apply it before hand on every other panel but this first panel is on we won’t be able to. Do you have any advice on the best way to apply it after the fact? We haven’t riveted but we’re getting to the cleco phase.
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04-23-2023, 11:00 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,030
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Make sure the metal you're applying it to is very clean (with soap and water and mineral spirits or acetone) and scuff the area with sandpaper to maximize the adhesion. If you care about how it looks, tape off both sides of the seam and after applying the sealant with your finger smooth it out by misting it with mineral spirits from a spray bottle; make sure you peel up the tape right away before the sealant sets.
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