Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 08-22-2018, 11:10 AM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Posts: 37
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Freightliner Thomas
Engine: 5.9L Cummins Diesel
Rated Cap: 71
how to get this insulation out?

Hi folks,

In taking out the wall panels and old insulation, there is a long white painted panel below the regular galvanized steel wall panels (just above the floor) that looks more difficult to remove. There is insulation behind it. Just above that insulation is a row of screws (not viewable in the photos; hiding behind/below the green stripe at the top of the panel) that seems to attach a rub rail to the outside of the bus. We don’t want to mess with the rub rails since removing screws that hold that on seems to be asking for leaks.

How do we get that insulation out?

Is that big panel indeed part of the main bus frame as it looks, and not removable, or is it removable? If we can remove it, how do we go about that?

Thanks!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3765.jpg (29.1 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3850.jpg (29.4 KB, 30 views)
olives is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2018, 11:41 AM   #2
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
What you are referring to is the chair rail, it is structural and should not be removed. Is it not just batt insulation? On mine the pieces came out whole. Use a coat hanger hook or something to get the rest.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2018, 12:13 PM   #3
Mini-Skoolie
 
BigBlue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 46
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 78
I second the coat hanger hook! Also a shop vac shoved down the crevice can grab big clumps up. We also used one of those claw grabber things and it worked REALLY well. It’s a tedious process that’s for sure!
BigBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-22-2018, 01:41 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,358
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
Ditto on the coat hanger and shopvac.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2018, 10:31 AM   #5
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Posts: 37
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Freightliner Thomas
Engine: 5.9L Cummins Diesel
Rated Cap: 71
Thanks to each of you for the advice! My husband (who is pulling the insulation - I post to this forum and look after the children :P ) really likes the coat hanger idea.

To answer you, o1marc - yeah, it seems to be the regular fiberglass batt insulation, but the bottom piece behind the chair rail is separate from the part behind the panel, and seems to be semi-blocked by screws going through. Will try coat hanger.

When you reinsulate, do you push new insulation down into that gap, or do you just leave that part empty and insulate on the interior side of the chair rail?
olives is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2018, 10:33 AM   #6
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Posts: 37
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Freightliner Thomas
Engine: 5.9L Cummins Diesel
Rated Cap: 71
Shop vac and claw grabber thing sound like great ideas too. Do you know what either of those is formally called (or links to such) so that we can find the right thing? I imagine a shop vac is some sort of vacuum cleaner with attachment for crevices...?

Thanks!
olives is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2018, 10:39 AM   #7
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by olives View Post
Thanks to each of you for the advice! My husband (who is pulling the insulation - I post to this forum and look after the children :P ) really likes the coat hanger idea.

To answer you, o1marc - yeah, it seems to be the regular fiberglass batt insulation, but the bottom piece behind the chair rail is separate from the part behind the panel, and seems to be semi-blocked by screws going through. Will try coat hanger.

When you reinsulate, do you push new insulation down into that gap, or do you just leave that part empty and insulate on the interior side of the chair rail?
If you can't get rigid board insulation that cavity, some will shoot spray foam down there to fill the gap first, then add the rigid above the screw line. A shop vac is just that, a vacuum made for shop use, usually more heavy duty than your home vacuum. but your home vacuum with a hose and nozzle attachment will work also. Probably better because the hose is smaller.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2018, 11:44 AM   #8
Mini-Skoolie
 
BigBlue's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2017
Posts: 46
Year: 1993
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner
Engine: Cat 3116
Rated Cap: 78
The “claw grabber” I was referring to is officially called a “E-Z Reacher 40-in Pick-Up Tool”. Helped us get past those pesky screws in the way!
BigBlue is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2018, 12:08 PM   #9
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Posts: 37
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Freightliner Thomas
Engine: 5.9L Cummins Diesel
Rated Cap: 71
Excellent. Thank you for the advice and details!
olives is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-23-2018, 07:37 PM   #10
Bus Nut
 
mikeypj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Iowa
Posts: 444
Year: 1989
Chassis: International
Engine: 9.L
Rated Cap: 64
Quote:
Originally Posted by olives View Post
Hi folks,

In taking out the wall panels and old insulation, there is a long white painted panel below the regular galvanized steel wall panels (just above the floor) that looks more difficult to remove. There is insulation behind it. Just above that insulation is a row of screws (not viewable in the photos; hiding behind/below the green stripe at the top of the panel) that seems to attach a rub rail to the outside of the bus. We don’t want to mess with the rub rails since removing screws that hold that on seems to be asking for leaks.

How do we get that insulation out?

Is that big panel indeed part of the main bus frame as it looks, and not removable, or is it removable? If we can remove it, how do we go about that?

Thanks!
Perfect timing on this question. I was just looking at that rub rail wondering how to get it out..noticed all the shoe scuff marks..lol
mikeypj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-24-2018, 11:54 AM   #11
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Tahoe
Posts: 513
Year: 1997
Coachwork: International
Chassis: 3000RE
Engine: T444E w/ MT643
Rated Cap: 84 pass, 40'
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigBlue View Post
I second the coat hanger hook! Also a shop vac shoved down the crevice can grab big clumps up. We also used one of those claw grabber things and it worked REALLY well. It’s a tedious process that’s for sure!
Aiming a leaf blower down at an angle while shop vac-ing the other side can get the loose bits way down.
__________________
middle aged mom on a learning adventure
2martins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2018, 02:58 PM   #12
Almost There
 
WanderlustExistence's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Florida
Posts: 73
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas Build
Chassis: International
Engine: 466E
Rated Cap: 66
This was so frustrating to get out! We have the same exact set up with the screws in the way. I was able to fit my hand in the side and rip most of it out by grabbing the side and pulling. However, there were a few areas that were really tough. We used a crow bar to get in between and loosen it up and then grabbed a pair of tongs to grab it. LOL It was tough. After that, to get all of the junk out of there, we used a leaf blower because our shop vac would fit and we didn't have the extension... it's messy but worked. Let me know how insulating down there goes. I have been curious myself on how to go about doing so. I was going to get the can spray foam for the bottom half but have hear it's not closed celled and therefor not good to use on the bus.... it's so hard to figure it out because there are negatives on every option.
WanderlustExistence is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-28-2018, 04:30 PM   #13
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Eastern Massachusetts
Posts: 37
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Freightliner Thomas
Engine: 5.9L Cummins Diesel
Rated Cap: 71
Some results back now that we've (eh, 'he's') tried it: My husband says the coat hanger wasn't strong enough; it just got straightened. But using the same idea he used a crowbar and the hook end of a hammer to push the insulation down to the side of each segment and then pull/drag it out. Was difficult. He hasn't gone back in with a shop vac (or other vacuum cleaner) yet but intends to.

Re getting insulation in there (which we aren't at the point of trying yet), would it make any sense to bend/bang the rub rail screws flat so they don't poke across the space? Or is that a bad idea?
olives is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2018, 03:56 PM   #14
Skoolie
 
Marceps's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Posts: 156
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Saf-T-Liner MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
What you are referring to is the chair rail, it is structural and should not be removed.
Thank you for mentioning this right out of the gate. Too many people remove the chair rail.

For the shop vac, a flat attachment with an angled exit and a flat attachment with a tip that “points down” (far right) are good tools for the job, but the best tool I had was an L-shaped section of seat tubing roughly three-feet long with a five-inch protrusion, as most crow bars' heads are too wide to effectively reach the bottom of the chair rail cavity.
Marceps is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-29-2018, 04:57 PM   #15
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,333
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I got lucky, my Genesis has buck rivets holding the rub rails, so the insulation slides right in and out.
Put on PPE and use an air nozzle to blow the remaining bits out. Blow and vacuum at the same time.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20180828_191504.jpg (132.5 KB, 6 views)
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2018, 09:13 AM   #16
Skoolie
 
karrlot's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Manitou Springs, CO
Posts: 215
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Ward
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65 passenger
While I was removing screws I found an interesting way to remove insulation. Each time I would take a screw out it would have a ball of insulation on it. The screw spins and winds the insulation up into a tight ball. I would bet a wooden dowel rod with the edges roughed up to grab the insulation would work better. And it would be longer.
__________________
Please check out my blog-
Follow the (lack of) progress on the Karr Family Kamping Bus Blog
Here is my woefully inadequate build thread:
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/i-...bus-12296.html
karrlot is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
fiberglass, insulation, panels, removal

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×