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03-31-2022, 01:39 PM
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#1
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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How to make sliding extension for unistrut?
unistrut, superstrut, whatever. 1-5/8" strut.
This is what we're using to frame around and mount our solar panels to.
Since the panels won't span the roof, the sections of strut framing them won't either.
I wish to mount off-road/exterior lighting to these strut sections to illuminate the area on either side of the bus.
In order for them to not be obstructed by the roofline, that means they need to mount to something that extends out from the ends of the strut sections (~18").
Making these fixed extensions would be easy. All kinds of ways to do that.
But I think I'd like to make them something we can extend or retract easily, so maybe while we're driving - possibly in areas where they might get wacked - we could keep them retracted, and then pull them out once parked.
Imagine a strut section shrunk down so it could just fit inside a section of strut, sliding in & out of it. That's kind of what I'm getting at. Something that can slide in/out, and be fixed into place in at least 2 positions (fully extended, and fully retracted).
Any ideas of how to implement something like this would be very much appreciated!
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03-31-2022, 01:48 PM
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#2
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 209
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Blueburd
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: 9.0L International Diesel NA
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03-31-2022, 02:21 PM
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#3
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Western MT
Posts: 671
Year: 1990
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71TA, 10 sp.
Rated Cap: 90 (40')
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You've probably seen this, but Unistrut makes square tubing called Telestrut. It can telescope (hence the "Tele" bit) and is compatible with standard 1-5/8" strut channel, but I think the square tube is meant to go over the channel. So... doesn't really help you
Edit: unless you ditch the channel altogether and just use the two sizes of Telestrut for your whole rack. The larger diameter stuff could be your main cross pieces and the smaller stuff could telescope into the ends.
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03-31-2022, 02:38 PM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Rochey, thanks. Not discounting this idea, but I was hoping for something a bit different. a single drawer slide w/ whatever I needed to mount on the end to mount the light to would look a little funky unless I'm missing something.
Tejon, no, I didn't know about it. And your second thought might have worked. Unfortunately I've got a pile of strut sitting in the bus that needs somewhere to go  But you understand exactly what I'm looking for ;)
Thanks for the ideas! Keep 'em coming.
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03-31-2022, 02:47 PM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: Western MT
Posts: 671
Year: 1990
Chassis: Crown Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71TA, 10 sp.
Rated Cap: 90 (40')
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Ha! The price you pay for planning ahead so well
The various hinges they make for strut channel come to mind, but that might also give you a bit of a funky look.
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03-31-2022, 03:12 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tejon7
Ha! The price you pay for planning ahead so well 
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LOL. Right? I should pat myself on the back just a bit harder over that one. I guess I never planned to account for the problems my planning might cause.
Searching 'telescoping <everything>' right now. I know there are probably a bizillion different products I'm unaware of that could be repurposed to make this happen.
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03-31-2022, 03:51 PM
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#7
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Nevermind. I'm overthinking this. I'll just nest some 7/8 tube in 1", add a pin/detent, a couple holes, and weld the outer tubes inside the ends of the strut. I'll have to weld the brackets for the panels onto the strut instead of bolting them on like originally intended, but now that I think about it that saves me quite a bit of $ & weight. I keep forgetting I have the means to weld things now!
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03-31-2022, 09:46 PM
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#8
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Bus Nut
Join Date: May 2006
Location: mid Mo.
Posts: 962
Year: 1976
Coachwork: bluebird
Chassis: F33695
Engine: 427 chevy converted to 466
Rated Cap: 84
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That was what i was going to say, square tubing telescopes into others but pay attention to the wall thickness, that is the determining factor on what will telescope and what won't. You can also weld a nut on the outer tube after drilling a hole for a bolt and tighten it up, that way you can adjust where you want it, 2 would be better though to keep Murphy out of it.
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03-31-2022, 09:56 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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That's a great idea, Rick. Thanks! That would also help tighten it up so it wouldn't rattle
Noted on wall thickness. I'll make sure to verify beforehand.
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04-01-2022, 09:10 AM
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#10
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 209
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Blueburd
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: 9.0L International Diesel NA
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idk, kinda up to you how you craft it for final look. but imagine a very simple solution. bolt the slide to your transverse unistrut on your roof rack super structure. Mount another piece of unistrut or square bar or wood even to the slide and affix your light and bracketry to the end... Likely want some sort of mechanical catch to keep it in place in transit?
see attached 30 second CAD sketch
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04-01-2022, 09:50 AM
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#11
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Thanks Rochey. Really appreciate your input. Your idea is definitely starting to grow on me  Thanks for taking the time.
Last night's 2 A.M. night-sweats were realizing a steel tube in a steel tube on our roof would likely rust very quickly. And with it sliding in & out I'm not confident even a durable coating (2k epoxy? powerdercoat?) would stay durable for long. If anyone sees where my newfound worries are unfounded, let me know. But now that I've thought about it it more it seems problematic. Could do aluminum but then I have to bolt/bracket it on anyway, so essentially we're right back to a slide.
I already found marine slides that should be perfect.
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04-01-2022, 10:30 AM
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#12
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Rochester NY
Posts: 209
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Blueburd
Chassis: International S1800
Engine: 9.0L International Diesel NA
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no problem, While certainly not "weather proof" the marine slide are great quality. They were spec'ed on an outdoor grill area I did for millwork at work. But i would definitely think about a hood or roof to keep the water at bay.
the sliding rod and tube stock would work, but corrosion over the long term is a factor. maybe a monthly lubing of WD-40 and Grpahite lube would keep the oxidation to a minimum. but thats just another maintenece item to be neglected.
some thing as simple as a "hook and eye" could be enough to hold the slide in place. If you order one that has "soft or easy" close it will stay pretty firmly in place.
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04-01-2022, 10:44 AM
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#13
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Yeah, that 'monthly maintenance to be neglected' almost certainly would be. Out of sight, out of mind... I'm trying to make everything on the roof as maintenance free as possible. Plus getting older I know there may come a day soon when getting up there & working isn't as easy as it is now. As it is I'm still going back & forth over whether extending/retracting these will end up being a pain. But I can always just leave them in one position if it does.
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04-02-2022, 11:22 AM
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#14
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Skoolie
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Peru. IN
Posts: 184
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: NB18FD Oshkosh
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 18,500
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How automated do you want the lights to be?
Myself I would get a table slide like mentioned earlier. Bolt it to the side of the Unistrut. Only I would use a waterproof 12 volt linear actuator to move it in and out. Size the actuator a little shorter than stroke of the table slide. You wouldn't need a high torque actuator for this.
No climbing needed to deploy when done.
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04-02-2022, 11:37 AM
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#15
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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You know what, Phillip... that was the next thing I was thinking  Great minds & all that jazz. At least on your part.
Then I started thinking about the wiring I'd have to add, & how everything going through the roof was already there, and the new circuits, and all the work I've still got to do...
I ended up coming back full circle on this problem. I'm not sliding out anything now. I'm extending the rack past the edge of the panels to the point where it's 3" in from the sides of the bus, and filling the gap between the panels and the ends in with composite decking. From there I can mount both the lights and cameras (another thing I was going to have to slide) underneath the decking, which both provides support and protection from elements/overhead smacks.
What I didn't realize was just how much the curvature of the roof and the 4" height the panels will sit above it (near the center) buys me in terms of angles. I mocked it up yesterday, and I can have the center of either (lights/cameras) up to 8" in from the edge of the bus and still illuminate/view sufficiently down the sides, with only an ~2' blind spot at ground level. I can put the center of the cam lenses at 7" in (can't get closer due to cam dimensions), and the average person can't squeeze in close enough to the bus to not be seen. And I can the center of the lights at 4" in, which light to hit within 1' of the edge at the ground, which means pretty much right up to the side and working / table height.
Sorry for wasting everyone's time with this exercise. Me coming back to the point I started on bus projects isn't anything new. I still truly appreciate all the advice. I'm sure it will prove useful to others in the future (or maybe me the next time I change my mind)!
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04-06-2022, 05:56 PM
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#16
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2019
Location: Orlando Fl
Posts: 25
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Van Hool
Chassis: C2045
Engine: Cummins M11
Rated Cap: 47,000
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It sounds like....
you might want to check this build from "beginning this morning" on youtube. Although they built on a bus what they did might round out your thinking.
https://youtu.be/UhvWJZjqRJs
Their very informative blog on the build of their solar rack build
http://www.beginningfromthismorning.com/solar-rack1/
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04-07-2022, 07:20 AM
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#17
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jun 2021
Location: Baja often, Oregon frequently
Posts: 473
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Our hot little grubbies...
Chassis: Ford CF8000 ExpeditionVehicle
Engine: Cummins 505ci mechanical
Rated Cap: Five Heelers
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Eugene, Oregon.
Semi-retired welder-fabricator here.
.
To mount our photovoltaic:
At the local-owned family-operated metal supply, I foraged some aluminum scrap from their remnants area... 8'+/- lengths of 1"X3" box mostly, with others as fill.
It doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to work.
.
Years ago, my investment was probably less than a hundred Federal Reserve bankers promissory notes.
(With today's funky-money, you could be looking at a life-time commitment...)
.
.
www.coyotesteel.com
A fine fine splendid website.
In reality, the place is a bunch of busted barns, tilting Conex shipping-containers, and rusted racks sinking into pot-hole gravel... operated by dedicated metal-heads.
Ask for 'April!'.
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04-07-2022, 08:09 AM
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#18
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,855
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LargeMargeInBaja
Eugene, Oregon.
Semi-retired welder-fabricator here.
.
To mount our photovoltaic:
At the local-owned family-operated metal supply, I foraged some aluminum scrap from their remnants area... 8'+/- lengths of 1"X3" box mostly, with others as fill.
It doesn't need to be pretty, it just needs to work.
.
Years ago, my investment was probably less than a hundred Federal Reserve bankers promissory notes.
(With today's funky-money, you could be looking at a life-time commitment...)
.
.
Coyote Steel & Co. | Eugene, Oregon
A fine fine splendid website.
In reality, the place is a bunch of busted barns, tilting Conex shipping-containers, and rusted racks sinking into pot-hole gravel... operated by dedicated metal-heads.
Ask for 'April!'.
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Aluminum. That is what the Sasquatters used. Have you looked at their solar slide-outs?
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f49/i...eck-27632.html
Very elaborate. Spared no expense.
(Might add few magnesium blocks to attract & collect oxidizing electrons.)
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04-07-2022, 12:28 PM
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#19
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2022
Location: RVA
Posts: 210
Year: 91
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American
Engine: 6-BT
Rated Cap: 40 passenger
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I use camera tripod legs for lots of things.
They usually have mounting (pivot) holes on one end and and a spike / glide hole in the other. They adjust with twist or levers.
Get good ones.
Pawn shops, thrift stores are good resources.
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