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Old 11-20-2017, 06:33 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Get the foam out, its open cell foam. Both my 92 and 98 amtrans had it.
That confirms my suspicions, thanks.

Since you had an Amtran of that era, anything special I should do to tackle the bottom corners of the windows? They seem.....especially prone to leaking.

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Old 11-20-2017, 10:37 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Drew Bru View Post
That confirms my suspicions, thanks.

Since you had an Amtran of that era, anything special I should do to tackle the bottom corners of the windows? They seem.....especially prone to leaking.
Seal em as best you can, install the windows, then tape off and seam seal the outside seams of each window/opening.
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Old 11-20-2017, 05:30 PM   #23
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After removing and cleaning some of the windows today we realized there are really big holes in the corners. They go down beside the ribs as well as between the bottom and sides of the window frames. Can we use Loctite Tite Foam Insulating Foam Sealant ( https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-TITEF...e+foam+sealant ) to fill them and then use the Dynatron 550 around the frame where it actually meets up with the bus?
Will the Dynatron bind to the Loctite? Is the loctite closed cell? I've searched for answers to these questions myself but haven't been able to find anything. Thanks for the help!
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Old 12-05-2017, 11:10 PM   #24
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After removing and cleaning some of the windows today we realized there are really big holes in the corners. They go down beside the ribs as well as between the bottom and sides of the window frames. Can we use Loctite Tite Foam Insulating Foam Sealant ( https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-TITEF...e+foam+sealant ) to fill them and then use the Dynatron 550 around the frame where it actually meets up with the bus?
Will the Dynatron bind to the Loctite? Is the loctite closed cell? I've searched for answers to these questions myself but haven't been able to find anything. Thanks for the help!
Yes, it's closed cell. It's the only thing I use.

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Old 12-07-2017, 06:21 AM   #25
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Yes, it's closed cell. It's the only thing I use.

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Did you fix the windows? After reading your post again, I see you were going to use the Loctite spray foam to fill those large gaps...I had only answered your question on whether it was closed cell foam. How did it go? I myself used Henry's 212 crystal clear sealant to fill those large gaps.


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Old 12-07-2017, 06:40 AM   #26
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Did you fix the windows? After reading your post again, I see you were going to use the Loctite spray foam to fill those large gaps...I had only answered your question on whether it was closed cell foam. How did it go? I myself used Henry's 212 crystal clear sealant to fill those large gaps.


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How'd it go? We don't know yet. It's hasn't rained and we don't have access to a hose where we're storing it! Can't find a car wash tall enough to run it through and truck washes seem a bit spendy for a simple leak-test.

We ended up cutting a piece of flashing to bridge over that gaping hole in the corner. Luckily it was only in 2 places. The rest had factory-installed butyl rubber plugs. We used 3M Dynatron 550 (about 15 tubes total! for 20 windows). We really gooped up the bottom corners......edges too, for that matter. We're cautiously optimistic but we can't move forward with the window trim until we know for sure if it worked.

Did the Henry's 212 work for you? What process did you go through to get the windows water tight? We really don't want to have to take them out again.
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Old 12-08-2017, 11:37 AM   #27
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Butyl rubber caulk tape will be your most affordable option. It is inexpensive and easy to use.

When you take the windows out you will need to make sure every vestige of the silicone is removed or you will be doing the whole process over again.

I can't tell very well from the picture but if your bus body is an AmTrans from the mid-'80's to the early-'00's the windows used by AmTrans were pretty poorly built and installed. We had some brand new AmTrans buses in the mid-80's that had windows that leaked from day one.
I've been looking at mine (in that same year class) and when I disassembled the windows and took the vinyl glazing off to clean, I found that the vinyl glazing had been thermo-bonded into a kind of o-ring and sometimes the corners break through. Also, the areas exposed to the sun get very hard over time. I'm looking into replacement vinyl glazing and pile weatherstrip to reseal the windows themselves within the frames. I've been told by the local International dealer that a company named Magna-Donnely was the manufacturer of these windows. I'm currently trying to get someone from there to call me back. In the mean time, it appears CR Laurence makes both a pile weatherstrip and glazing vinyl that may work for me. I'll cut the glazing to length and superglue the ends together to make a seal./ I'm also looking to having the window panels tinted to reduce heating up the bus in summer.
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Old 12-12-2017, 02:45 AM   #28
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Did the Henry's 212 work for you? What process did you go through to get the windows water tight? We really don't want to have to take them out again.

It did, but a couple of Windows still leak. I guess I wasn't thorough enough on them. It could have been late and I could have been tired....you know, 20 Windows.....
At first, most of my Windows leaked, and now only 3. Remember, this is what I used for the beading on the frame and sill before replacing the window. I might have to take those three out and do them again.
I'm also using Dynatron 550 for the caulking on the outside. I like working with it.

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Old 12-12-2017, 12:55 PM   #29
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hold up real quick...

you guys got rid of the foam stripping? I couldn't figure out how your windows affix to your bus but does the frame of the window not meet up with the bus framing? Did you put on anything to seal that up?
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Old 12-13-2017, 09:36 AM   #30
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hold up real quick...

you guys got rid of the foam stripping? I couldn't figure out how your windows affix to your bus but does the frame of the window not meet up with the bus framing? Did you put on anything to seal that up?
We replaced the foam stripping at the top, there would have been a large gap between the top of the window and the bus frame if we hadn't. We didn't replace it on the sides, because the window frame meets the bus frame on the sides and bottom. We have no idea if we did any of it correctly or if it is going to be water tight, we're in the uncomfortable position of figuring everything out as we go with no viable means to test it.
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Old 12-13-2017, 05:59 PM   #31
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We replaced the foam stripping at the top, there would have been a large gap between the top of the window and the bus frame if we hadn't. We didn't replace it on the sides, because the window frame meets the bus frame on the sides and bottom. We have no idea if we did any of it correctly or if it is going to be water tight, we're in the uncomfortable position of figuring everything out as we go with no viable means to test it.
Well same here on the figuring-it-out-as-you-go method. I understand the top of your framing now but I feel like you should add foam or something where the window frame meets bus frame on the side (vertical)... if applicable. That's the only part we are sure of with our bus. Currently trying to figure out what/how to replace the window pane gaskets with.

Good luck to you guys though!

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Old 12-13-2017, 07:04 PM   #32
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Well same here on the figuring-it-out-as-you-go method. I understand the top of your framing now but I feel like you should add foam or something where the window frame meets bus frame on the side (vertical)... if applicable. That's the only part we are sure of with our bus. Currently trying to figure out what/how to replace the window pane gaskets with.

Good luck to you guys though!

- Ellison
Yeah. The weatherstripping was open-cell foam and water would just run right down to the bottom corners. We filled that gap (that the weatherstripping was supposed to fill) with about 1/2 tube of Automotive Seam Sealer until it started oozing out the outside edge.
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Old 12-13-2017, 10:24 PM   #33
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I just used caulk to seal the windows like would be done on any house. Maybe it wasn't right, but my windows haven't leaked at all.

I also threw away the rubber strip at the top of the window. Most weren't in good condition anyway.

Before reinstalling a cleaned window frame I'd put a relatively big bead of caulk on the bus window seat where the window will sit. I push the window into place and secure it as normal, then go outside and caulk the exterior seams where the window frame meets the bus structure. I only used about a tube and a half of caulk after ordering three. I used silkaflex which seemed very soft but is very durable after it cures. I couldn't pull the caulk back off with my fingers so I guess it's pretty tough. I have no idea if what I used was the best or worst, it's just what I used and seems to be good quality. Not endorsing the product, but I am pleased with the result. At the same time I've never caulked bus windows before so I have nothing for comparison.
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Old 12-14-2017, 08:46 AM   #34
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I just used caulk to seal the windows like would be done on any house. Maybe it wasn't right, but my windows haven't leaked at all.

I also threw away the rubber strip at the top of the window. Most weren't in good condition anyway.

Before reinstalling a cleaned window frame I'd put a relatively big bead of caulk on the bus window seat where the window will sit. I push the window into place and secure it as normal, then go outside and caulk the exterior seams where the window frame meets the bus structure. I only used about a tube and a half of caulk after ordering three. I used silkaflex which seemed very soft but is very durable after it cures. I couldn't pull the caulk back off with my fingers so I guess it's pretty tough. I have no idea if what I used was the best or worst, it's just what I used and seems to be good quality. Not endorsing the product, but I am pleased with the result. At the same time I've never caulked bus windows before so I have nothing for comparison.
That's really good to hear. We're already behind schedule with the build so we're moving ahead without knowing if we solved the problem, hopefully we'll get the same good results that you got... If not we'll have to address it again in the spring.
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:23 AM   #35
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I'm sure doing the windows would be easier the second time. It's mostly just labor anyway since there are so little materials involved. Other than the caulk itself, I used a couple of those toothbrush size wire brushes to make the aluminum nice and bright again.

I thought real hard about painting the aluminum window frames while I had the windows out. I wasn't sure if the paint would stick well or not.

I don't focus on keeping the ambiance of a bus. This big turd is always going to look like a bus no matter what I do to it.
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Old 12-14-2017, 09:40 AM   #36
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Just for full-disclosure purposes (and in the inevitable event that someone finds this thread a few years from now because they're dealing with the same issues). Note that we haven't leak-tested this yet, and I was in a bit of a "mood" after cracking one of the windows, so I neglected to take pictures.

The whole process took probably 10 hours and I think 13-ish tubes of seam sealer for 20 windows. It honestly wasn't too bad, and if we didn't have to scrape out silicone from a previous attempt at sealing the windows it might have been much quicker and easier.

What we ended up doing was:
  • Pulled the windows out.
  • Scraped the weatherstripping out of the bus frame (posts?)
  • Used a paint scraper, then a drill-mounted wire brush to clean the window frame and the bus frame/posts down to bare metal.
  • Cleaned all bare metal with acetone
  • Added new weatherstripping to top edge of bus frame, in order to fill the gaping void and keep cold air out.
  • Applied a bead of 3M Dynatron 550 Seam Sealer to the faces of the window frame and the bottom edge of the window frame.
  • Applied a bead of seam sealer to the bus frame/posts and the sill plate, and put a giant glob of seam sealer in each bottom corner, so they would be embedded.
  • Screwed the window into place, and smoothed out the oozing seam sealer on the exterior of the bus

It was a messy job and I don't ever want to have to do it again, so we probably went overboard with the seam sealer. I'm still praying for rain so I know if it worked!

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Old 02-06-2018, 12:51 PM   #37
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Hey Drew,

Certainly you've had some rain since your last post. Are you officially 100% leak free after this process?
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:12 PM   #38
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Hey Drew,

Certainly you've had some rain since your last post. Are you officially 100% leak free after this process?
Sadly, no....we're not leak free. In fact, I'm not sure we're any better off. Not sure exactly where we went wrong either....I maybe should have taken the advice to use butyl tape instead of Dynatron 550. Once spring comes we'll probably try to address the issue from the outside of the bus. I'm sure I don't have it in me to remove the windows again.

In the meantime we've tried to install an interior rainwater catchment system (interior gutters, really) but it hasn't rained since we've done the work. It's pretty disheartening, really, and I'm regretting that we removed the windows in the first place. At this point, we just want to catch the water so it doesn't migrate behind the finished walls and onto or under the floor.

The bottom corners of most of the windows is where the water is getting in. It's kind of a bummer, really.
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:39 PM   #39
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Ah bummer,

I'm really sorry to hear that. I've heard from a lot who are struggling to keep the water out of their windows, but haven't 100% succeeded yet, so I guess you're not alone! So are you leaking at the corners of the windows between the window frame and the bus? Or are you leaking between the window glass and the window frame?

I reinstalled all of my windows with Butyl tape, and I believe I'm all sealed at that joint (I have a different window design from), but I do have a bit of water intrusion still where the window pane meets the frame. Next step for me is running a bead of seam sealer along that rubber gasket, but I'm considering a polyurethane sealer instead. Maybe like what they use to install windshields. Having trouble pulling the trigger on a product. I hope you get it figured out promptly once it warms up!
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Old 02-06-2018, 01:57 PM   #40
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Ah bummer,

So are you leaking at the corners of the windows between the window frame and the bus? Or are you leaking between the window glass and the window frame?
99% sure it's between the window frame and the bus, not the glass and window frame.

We'll have to wait for another rain. Right now we're all about the snow!
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