How to spray interior floor - physical mechanics

[Rivetboy]

[QUOTE=(unless I rip apart the entire bus, which aint happening)[/QUOTE] Many people should take heed of your words of wisdom. My version of that way of thinking, honed on airplanes and boats, is the more impossible it is to access, the odds that it will need replacement go up by the power of X.

[gs1949]

wrong thread

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by gs1949

So recoat time would be critical for bonding well between coats then?

yes, many products have a recommended widow of optimum time between coats, including some urethane varnishes, 2 part epoxies, and others - read the labels, don't assume - recoat too soon and it won't harden properly, leave it too long and the next coat won't adhere without extensive sanding to roughen the surface and get rid of the glaze - most paints will state recoat times on the labels

[gs1949]

Oh, I know but it's usually so cool around here that I've gotten into waiting a little longer than what the labels say. Even this month some days don't get much above 60. I go by smell and touch as much as time. So I pay close attention to what they say about minimum temperatures. I'm sure that will be in the technical data sheet too. When I'm closer to being ready to paint the exterior, I'll check a few out. Thanks.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by gs1949

Oh, I know but it's usually so cool around here that I've gotten into waiting a little longer than what the labels say. Even this month some days don't get much above 60. I go by smell and touch as much as time. So I pay close attention to what they say about minimum temperatures. I'm sure that will be in the technical data sheet too. When I'm closer to being ready to paint the exterior, I'll check a few out. Thanks.

What's the temp there now. I'm watching the race in N.H., it's 96 there, here in Ga. it's a balmy 78, coolest day since I can remember.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by gs1949

Oh, I know but it's usually so cool around here that I've gotten into waiting a little longer than what the labels say. Even this month some days don't get much above 60. I go by smell and touch as much as time. So I pay close attention to what they say about minimum temperatures. I'm sure that will be in the technical data sheet too. When I'm closer to being ready to paint the exterior, I'll check a few out. Thanks.

be careful about adding heat to aid drying time - an ex-son-in-law was painting the floor of his house trailer, getting it ready to sell, when the
electric heater ignited the fumes from the floor paint - he barely escaped with his life - epoxies are a lot more volatile than porch and floor enamel

[HazMatt]

Are you dancing because of the missed opportunity to have a son in law go off like a Roman Candle..?

[gs1949]

@Sleddgracer, I would never use heat. I just wait.

[TheHubbardBus]

Originally Posted by Rivetboy

My version of that way of thinking, honed on airplanes and boats, is the more impossible it is to access, the odds that it will need replacement go up by the power of X.

Exactly!

I'd rather spend the most time & money on the least glamorous bits. Those that no-one will ever see. Because frankly, I don't want to ever see them again either. And doing them as 'right' as possible the first time around is the best way to guarantee I won't.

Regarding floor prep/paint, I see plenty of comments saying something along the lines of "This <insert half-ass measure> worked great for me". But how do they know? It's not like they're coming back a year afterwards to test if it's bubbled or chipping. Just because it looks good the week or so before they lay the sub-floor on top doesn't mean anything.

I'm not approaching this build in the "I just want to get 'x' years out of it". My goal is for everything we touch to outlast anything we don't. Then all we have to do to keep our bus running - indefinitely - is just keep touching the parts we haven't yet

Hence the reason I remain sold on 'overkill'. And speaking of which...

Sledd, or other paint pros...

How much do you think it would cost to have a professional spray the floor of a 6-window short bus with epoxy if I did all the prep work and cleanup?

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

Exactly!

I'd rather spend the most time & money on the least glamorous bits. Those that no-one will ever see. Because frankly, I don't want to ever see them again either. And doing them as 'right' as possible the first time around is the best way to guarantee I won't.

Regarding floor prep/paint, I see plenty of comments saying something along the lines of "This <insert half-ass measure> worked great for me". But how do they know? It's not like they're coming back a year afterwards to test if it's bubbled or chipping. Just because it looks good the week or so before they lay the sub-floor on top doesn't mean anything. the actual time it takes to spray a job like that with an airless sprayer, once all the prep and masking are done is 2 - 3 minutes!!

I'm not approaching this build in the "I just want to get 'x' years out of it". My goal is for everything we touch to outlast anything we don't. Then all we have to do to keep our bus running - indefinitely - is just keep touching the parts we haven't yet

Hence the reason I remain sold on 'overkill'. And speaking of which...

Sledd, or other paint pros...

How much do you think it would cost to have a professional spray the floor of a 6-window short bus with epoxy if I did all the prep work and cleanup?

hard to give you a quote with a lot of accuracy - but you are likely looking at $2 or $3 per square foot, possibly more because it's such a small area and equipment clean up takes as long for a small job as it does for a big one - wages in your area and how busy people are can/will affect prices too

[HazMatt]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

Exactly!

I'd rather spend the most time & money on the least glamorous bits...
Those that no-one will ever see...

Which is precisely why I go to a Laotion salon in somebody's basement to get waxed down...

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by HazMatt

Are you dancing because of the missed opportunity to have a son in law go off like a Roman Candle..?

not that I'm not pleased that ex is no longer part of my family, he always meant well - since the time of the fire he's been to hell and back in his life and with the people he chose to be around and influence - but in the last few months he's made a real effort to get himself and his life cleaned up - I saw him in town not more than 10 minutes ago and we had a 'hihowrya?' for each other - he sure looks better than this time last year - when I saw him going to the hospital then, I doubted he would live the week out - he and I were casual friends before he married my daughter 15 years ago, and if he succeeds in cleaning up his life, we can be that again

[TheHubbardBus]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

hard to give you a quote with a lot of accuracy - but you are likely looking at $2 or $3 per square foot, possibly more because it's such a small area and equipment clean up takes as long for a small job as it does for a big one - wages in your area and how busy people are can/will affect prices too

Thank you sir. I understand it's a guesstimate. But it gives me a ballpark feel.

[Biscuitsjam]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

I'd get rid of the rust as much as is practical, paint with one coat of Rustolium primer ( or competitor's product ) then 2 coats of Rustolium finish coat, cover it up with what ever flooring you plan on using - when your grandkids decide to remodel the old bus that grampa fixed up into a motor home, they will likely find a well painted floor in good condition long after you and I are long gone - the only rust there might be would have eaten through from underneath

Or you can do what the previous owner of my bus did:
1. Do nothing about rust
2. Do not seal roof or windows
3. Coat with 2-3 layers of rustoleum
4. Halfass fill holes in floor with silicon caulk
5. Cover with particle board flooring

When I ripped up the soaked particle board, I found a painted mess. It added about 30 hours to strip all the rustoleum off.