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12-30-2020, 11:44 AM
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#1
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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How to waterproof rear door handle?
We're putting everything external back in after painting. I planned on retaining the original rear door handle / latch mechanism. But I have no clue how this thing is supposed to work w/o allowing water in. Removing the outer handle before paint required days of penetrating oil, as the handle had rusted to the shaft. I feel like something has to be missing here - either some type of seal and/or a continuous 'bore' through the door. Can anyone tell me if I am? Or do they care so little if water gets in the rear door from the factory that this is how it's supposed to be?
As you can see from the pictures below, the outer handle just bolts on a (rectangular) shaft, which turns within a circular hole in the door, without a seal of any kind. And the two holes in the door through which the shaft runs - inside & out - aren't connected. If you were to pour water into either one, it would just run inside the door.
FYI the last two pics (of the bus) are taken from the outside of the bus. The handle shown in the first would mount onto that shaft, secured with a central bolt + a set screw. What you see is everything that was there - no gasket/seal/etc. Square peg, round hole.
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Our Build: Mr. Beefy
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12-30-2020, 11:59 AM
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#2
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Isn’t there a thick rubber washer that gets sandwiched between the door and handle?
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12-30-2020, 12:06 PM
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#3
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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You'd think so. But no, Danjo. Nada.
Think I'm just missing a part?
It would have to be a manufactured seal, rather than a simple washer or gasket, if it were to have any hope of keeping water out on an assembly like that.
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12-30-2020, 12:08 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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gotta love how crudely buses are built lol.
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12-30-2020, 01:05 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Florida
Posts: 1,855
Coachwork: Integrated Coach Corp.
Chassis: RE-300 42ft
Engine: 466ci
Rated Cap: 90
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Thomas e-door handle seal. Maybe the same vendor, has IC version. Call 'em.
https://www.tacbusparts.com/Other-It...ardware?page=2
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12-30-2020, 01:07 PM
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#6
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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And there ya go!
Thanks DeMac!
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12-30-2020, 01:53 PM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,033
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Do you even need a rear door handle on the outside? Mine was badly rusted (despite being a replacement) so I cut it off and riveted sheet metal over it. I'm not using it as an entrance, so there's no scenario in which only being able to open it from the inside isn't sufficient.
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post338642
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12-30-2020, 02:10 PM
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#8
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Do you even need a rear door handle on the outside? Mine was badly rusted (despite being a replacement) so I cut it off and riveted sheet metal over it. I'm not using it as an entrance, so there's no scenario in which only being able to open it from the inside isn't sufficient.
https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post338642
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You know what... I'm not sure I do. I never even thought of that.
Going to have to mull this over a bit. Thanks!
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Our Build: Mr. Beefy
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12-30-2020, 02:32 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 2,831
Year: 2007
Coachwork: Thomas Built
Chassis: Minotour
Engine: Chevy Express 3500 6.6l
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus
You know what... I'm not sure I do. I never even thought of that.
Going to have to mull this over a bit. Thanks!
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Thats a great solution. I might do that as well
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12-30-2020, 02:38 PM
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#10
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,829
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Man I really like that idea, too. Omitting stuff is my MO with buses! lol
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12-31-2020, 03:48 AM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,860
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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I never could get that outside handle off the shaft. There is some sort of pin that would not budge. So, I just masked up and painted around it in several lever positions when the door was painted.
I do not remember seeing a grommet.
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12-31-2020, 10:10 AM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2019
Location: SW USA
Posts: 2,064
Year: 2003
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: CE300
Engine: International T444e
Rated Cap: 23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
I never could get that outside handle off the shaft. There is some sort of pin that would not budge. So, I just masked up and painted around it in several lever positions when the door was painted.
I do not remember seeing a grommet.
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Our center bolt was rust-welded in, but fortunately that pin / set-screw came out. So I was able to 'inject' PB / WD-40 in through the pin hole to dissolve it. But it took a long time. Every day prepping for paint I'd do that + bang on the center bolt head w/ a punch & hammer. Think it finally broke after about a week.
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12-31-2020, 10:19 AM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,033
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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I had a hell of time cutting off my rear door handle. I had the same hell of a time cutting off the side door handle, but I left behind the part with the set screw. It turns out that unscrewed easily and the collar slipped right off, so I could have saved myself the cutting hassle with a little Allen wrench.
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