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Old 03-06-2016, 11:23 AM   #1
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How would you put a drain in this tub?

I dont recall where I found this skoolie conversion picture, but I would like to know how to put a drain in a tub like this that is flush like a stick house tub would be? Any ideas?

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Old 03-06-2016, 12:31 PM   #2
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You are going to have to create a flange around the hole you drill for the drain, once you drill your 1 1/2 inch hole, you need to get something 1/8th inch thick and make a hole in it slightly bigger than the tub drain fitting flange you are going to install, center the tub hole over it and then hammer the area around the tub hole down to create a flange with a ball peen hammer and a round edged punch
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Old 03-06-2016, 01:36 PM   #3
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Ok, I follow ya. Being galvy I cant use heat. Do you think the hammered flange would split?
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:05 PM   #4
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No it won't split
Go buy a normal bath tub drain and drill and fit before it is in place.
You will have to block up around the hole to deform it just enough for the drain grate to sit flush or lower with the bottom of the tub.
I would buy a drain and find a piece of steel pipe with a little bit bigger diameter than the drain cover and use it to form the cup for the drain grate to sit in and to be close to perfect take a piece of hardwood and make the same hole indentation and all in it and stick it under the hole in your tub and repeat the process. The pipe I recommended is going to be tighter in the tub because you added the thickness of the metal but it will stretch just like being pressed.
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Old 03-06-2016, 07:53 PM   #5
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Ok, I follow ya. Being galvy I cant use heat. Do you think the hammered flange would split?
There are several ways to install a drain, not a big deal. And you can weld galvanized metal if your drain setup requires welding. Once again not a big deal to do.
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:32 PM   #6
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Go buy a bathtub drain pipe. It'll tell you how to install it, minus the hole. The drain pipe should deform the soft metal so it drains and seal up just like in a house. Be sure to put the large rubber gasket on the outside of the tub, and plumbers putty on the inside under the drain lip.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:58 AM   #7
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Go buy a bathtub drain pipe. It'll tell you how to install it, minus the hole. The drain pipe should deform the soft metal so it drains and seal up just like in a house. Be sure to put the large rubber gasket on the outside of the tub, and plumbers putty on the inside under the drain lip.
Finally it's monday so I can call around for parts. I'll look for a stainless drain for a tub and see how things go. Thanks.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:42 PM   #8
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Go buy a bathtub drain pipe. It'll tell you how to install it, minus the hole. The drain pipe should deform the soft metal so it drains and seal up just like in a house. Be sure to put the large rubber gasket on the outside of the tub, and plumbers putty on the inside under the drain lip.

Agreed, just make sure the tub has no way to shift during movement so you don't develop leaks. A nice thick ring of bathroom silicone probably wouldn't hurt on the outside of the spongy gasket either. remember to seal from the bottom side of the bus too. Don't need any rust or critters crawling up in there!

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Old 03-07-2016, 06:51 PM   #9
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One problem with having the tub @ floor level is that your p-trap/j-trap will then need to be below the floor, and (assuming you're using gravity to move the gray water) your waste water tank below that. Things can start hanging low pretty quick.
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Old 03-07-2016, 09:11 PM   #10
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One problem with having the tub @ floor level is that your p-trap/j-trap will then need to be below the floor, and (assuming you're using gravity to move the gray water) your waste water tank below that. Things can start hanging low pretty quick.
Use a waterless drain trap and the drain pipe won't hang down so far.
Hepvo Waterless Valve
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Old 03-07-2016, 10:09 PM   #11
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Use a waterless drain trap and the drain pipe won't hang down so far.
Hepvo Waterless Valve
Wow, that's pretty cool.
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Old 06-08-2020, 12:00 AM   #12
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This tub is about 24" deep, making it a little tall to step into. Is there anyway you could lower the floor about 12", frame it out with angle iron and steel, put in some insulation, then plywood in the bottom (sealed to protect it from water), and then a thin layer of mortar to support the tub. Then I'd use a keg jig to join three 1x4's (or maybe 2x4's), spar urethane them really well on both sides, then use them to cover the front of the tub to give it a built in look, using clear caulking in the edge between the tub and wood edge. Would this work?
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Old 06-08-2020, 12:09 AM   #13
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To do that you're going to need an angle grinder and a a wire feed welder, plus some skill. Otherwise it's doable, depending on what's down below.
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Old 06-08-2020, 12:47 AM   #14
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To do that you're going to need an angle grinder and a a wire feed welder, plus some skill. Otherwise it's doable, depending on what's down below.
I have angle grinders and access to a welder, but unfortunately no skill welding. I think my son can (he's the one with the welder--not sure what kind he has though or when he'd have time). How hard would it be?
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Old 06-08-2020, 06:11 AM   #15
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A sunken or dropped tub that projects below the floor is doable - at least I hope it is, since I am doing it myself. This is the part of my build thread where I started on the tub box: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post366360 and since there's a lot of cruft here's where I welded the tub tray in place: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post368055

You do of course need to pick a spot where there is nothing on the underside of the bus in the way. You also face a fundamental constraint to how far below the floor you can go, if you want to rely entirely on gravity for drainage. My tub extends just 6" below the bottom of the floor beams; the drain will have to come down another 3" before it can run horizontally to the top of my gray water tank (I'm using a hepvo valve here because I have to) which is the long flat RV kind, 9" tall. This puts the bottom of my gray tank right at the bottom of the side skirt. If you go any lower than 6" or if your gray tank is any taller than 9", the gray tank will project below the skirt (which isn't really a problem other than cosmetically, although you are getting closer to ground clearance problems the farther down you go).

It is possible to set things up where you have a small tank that the tub drains into directly, and then a pump transfers the water from this tank into your gray water tank (which can be mounted higher up or even inside your bus as a result). I don't want the extra complexity of this so I'm arranging things for gravity drainage entirely.
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Old 06-08-2020, 07:20 AM   #16
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I would be thinking marine bilge pump to empty the bathtub. Gravity and obstructions for piping would be eliminated. Just have your bath then set the pump down in the tub.
You might want the tub on a slight slope to assist the pump in getting all the water out.


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Old 06-08-2020, 09:54 AM   #17
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A sunken or dropped tub that projects below the floor is doable - at least I hope it is, since I am doing it myself. This is the part of my build thread where I started on the tub box: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post366360 and since there's a lot of cruft here's where I welded the tub tray in place: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/rusty-87-build-thread-27741-16.html#post368055
You can save yourself even more room with this shower drain.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KEUQVGS...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old 06-08-2020, 02:49 PM   #18
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You do of course need to pick a spot where there is nothing on the underside of the bus in the way. You also face a fundamental constraint to how far below the floor you can go, if you want to rely entirely on gravity for drainage. My tub extends just 6" below the bottom of the floor beams; the drain will have to come down another 3" before it can run horizontally to the top of my gray water tank (I'm using a hepvo valve here because I have to) which is the long flat RV kind, 9" tall. This puts the bottom of my gray tank right at the bottom of the side skirt. If you go any lower than 6" or if your gray tank is any taller than 9", the gray tank will project below the skirt (which isn't really a problem other than cosmetically, although you are getting closer to ground clearance problems the farther down you go
I planned on putting the tub on the other side of the kitchen wall on the driver's side with the tub slanted toward that wall for drainage. There would be the kitchen sink, washer/dryer unit, wall, then tub. There is space for my 100 gallon gray water tank right underneath that area. The drain for the tub would only be a little over a foot from the gray tank. I had already planned to put the gray tank there, whether the tub is sunk or not. I was more concerned about cutting the floor out and how much it would weaken the floor and how to support that whole area well. I have this vision of the tub falling out beneath the bus going down the highway. Seems like that would be alot of weight with the floor weakened by the cut out, then the bay the sunken tub would be set in, plus the heavy gray tank right next to it. I noticed your tub is only 16"◊18"? Mine is 46"x24"◊24".
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Old 06-08-2020, 03:02 PM   #19
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I planned on putting the tub on the other side of the kitchen wall on the driver's side with the tub slanted toward that wall for drainage. There would be the kitchen sink, washer/dryer unit, wall, then tub. There is space for my 100 gallon gray water tank right underneath that area. The drain for the tub would only be a little over a foot from the gray tank. I had already planned to put the gray tank there, whether the tub is sunk or not. I was more concerned about cutting the floor out and how much it would weaken the floor and how to support that whole area well. I have this vision of the tub falling out beneath the bus going down the highway. Seems like that would be alot of weight with the floor weakened by the cut out, then the bay the sunken tub would be set in, plus the heavy gray tank right next to it.
Don't worry about a little hole in the floor for the tub, your bus won't notice it: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post354860. The simplest thing for you to do is to cut a rectangular opening in your floor, weld together the box for the tub with a lip all around the top, then drop it into the hole and weld it in place.
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Old 06-08-2020, 04:28 PM   #20
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Don't worry about a little hole in the floor for the tub, your bus won't notice it: https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/r...tml#post354860. The simplest thing for you to do is to cut a rectangular opening in your floor, weld together the box for the tub with a lip all around the top, then drop it into the hole and weld it in place.
I don't have a clue how to weld, so would need to borrow my son's welder. Hope he feels like giving his old mom welding lessons. Gee, this bus stuff is fun!
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