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03-18-2016, 09:30 PM
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#1
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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I made it to 100 now a question
In my bus I have a perforated roof on the inside, any way has all kinds of little
Holes everywhere.
1. What's the deal with that?
2. I found I small rust area like on the surface, do those drain better with all the holes?
3. I didn't see any insulation does that mean I don't have any?
4. Should I pull down all the,panels anyway?
Back to the regular schedule programming...
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-18-2016, 09:48 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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The perforated panels are acoustical ceiling panels.
The perforations really cut down on the interior noise from both the kids and from the bus.
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03-18-2016, 10:02 PM
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#3
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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I may be wrong but my thinking was that any kind of leak the roof might of had the holes would allow the water to pass on thou,also the small area that I found I was able to wipe the rust marks off with my finger.
I was just reading this to my wife and she seems to think it was not rust at all but maybe a soda that had been shaken
Up.
I will have to look closer
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-19-2016, 04:47 AM
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#4
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Pull the ceiling and wall panels. The insulation inside is fiberglass batting, and not the highest quality of it. Particularly on a 20 year old rig, there's a damned good chance there's mold growth in it, and a lot of disintegration. My rig's newer, but just look through my build thread at the crud that's grown in the batting.
Replacing the insulation with any kind of foam (rigid or spray) will also help your HVAC system run more efficiently
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03-19-2016, 10:32 AM
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#5
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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How do you want to use your bus? Weekend Warrior/Camping trips- Just leave it as is and have some blankets and a heater.
If you are planning to live in your bus- Get rid of that insulation! It is straight up garbage! You can see in some of my videos (link in signature) of what the insulation looks like.
Just my $0.02
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03-19-2016, 01:48 PM
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#6
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Skoolie
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Ft. Smith Arkansas
Posts: 141
Rated Cap: 2+1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josiahdr
How do you want to use your bus? Weekend Warrior/Camping trips- Just leave it as is and have some blankets and a heater.
If you are planning to live in your bus- Get rid of that insulation! It is straight up garbage! You can see in some of my videos (link in signature) of what the insulation looks like.
Just my $0.02
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We will be living in it full time, even before it is finished, We have 2 weeks from today to be out of our daughters basement...no joke on the street..
So the reason I ask was to see much we might have to do..
We have nothing but the clothes on our back, and just a very few and I mean few personal items. So moving will not be any trouble..
I am thinking we can sleep in the front and work on the back..then switch..
Anyway I have looked at your build and others...looks like we have lots of work ahead..
Lol I keep getting all these $.02 pretty soon I can pay for the bus..
No really thanks a lot.
__________________
Don and Ellen
Plus one fuzzy faced kid (Poopcee)
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03-19-2016, 02:32 PM
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#7
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 30
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I am about to do insulation on my bus, and I was going to use batting to replace the old stuff. Batting comes in up to R30, but rigid foam is only R4 or R5 at best from what I've found. I'd need an unaffordable amount of foam to equal a layer of batting. Are the complaints about batting only relevant to the existing stuff in the bus (which I removed prior to doing my 16" roof raise), or is there some problem with batting in a bus due to vibration or something?
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03-19-2016, 03:06 PM
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#8
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Almost There
Join Date: Jan 2016
Location: Port Townsend, WA
Posts: 89
Year: 1969
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Ford B-750
Engine: 390 BB
Rated Cap: 2 humans, 1 cat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoolydoo
We will be living in it full time, even before it is finished, We have 2 weeks from today to be out of our daughters basement...no joke on the street..
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I feel your pain!! We're in that same boat due to our landlord - and ours isn't home yet!
Lots of work but it will be worth it! I had thought we would do the same thing - renovate her "room by room" - but we'll see. Ours was converted when we bought it - albeit not as well as we plan on doing it.
I'll keep you in my thoughts!
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03-19-2016, 04:05 PM
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#9
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashandrik
there some problem with batting in a bus due to vibration or something?
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The problem with batting is that it retains moisture and dirt, which leads to mold growth, which brings us back to here, the Insulation and Mold Links, and an unhealthy environment.
If rigid panel is too cost prohibitive, see about either a DIY or professional spray foam installation.
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03-19-2016, 06:14 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Winlcok, WA
Posts: 2,233
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Another issue with batting is over time it can all settle to the bottom if it wasn't installed correctly.
I had a camper on which I had to do some repair work. When I opened up the wall I realized why it was always so much colder when it was cold outside or warmer when it was warm out side in the bathroom. All of the insulation in that corner of the camper had settled into the bottom 18" of the wall.
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03-19-2016, 07:42 PM
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#11
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Skoolydoo
No really thanks a lot.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashandrik
but rigid foam is only R4 or R5 at best from what I've found.
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I remember reading somewhere it can depend on you location as to what r-value they stock. I am outside of Chicago and bought R10 for my sub floor.
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