I tried to sort this out, but I need reinforcements. Bus won't start...ughhh

[Tango]

Long run for a short slide but glad to hear all is well and that it turned out to be a cheap fix.

Thanks for detailing the process...might save one of us similar headaches.

[turf]

Hey RC

thanks for the update!
1. i'm Really glad you got it back up and running.
2. the underside of buses is grimy
3. it was someone else's fault
4. Those neutral gear selectors are good for at least one "no start" for any bus newb.
5. it's definitely not your battery





for future researchers can we add tags? not batteries, neutral gear selector, sarcasm, blocking

[cowlitzcoach]

WOW!

I just knew it had to be something simple since you drove it into the shop.

I was NOT aware of the how the World Trans models were wired up. That is good to know that it uses power directly from the battery. Is the hot side fused?

I am sure glad the fix was simple although finding it was not.

Now that the bus is running again I would imagine your stomach is not in your throat full of bile. BTDT with a bus more than once.

It is extremely aggravating knowing that you drove it in but now you can't get it to start no matter what you do.

Now forward and onward with the conversion.

Good luck and happy trails to you!

[RC000E]

Originally Posted by Tango

Long run for a short slide but glad to hear all is well and that it turned out to be a cheap fix.

Thanks for detailing the process...might save one of us similar headaches.

Yeah, it is what it is. At least, in the process it forced me to search for all the information on the bus I could find. I now have full diagrams, tons of info, etc.

Since going through, I also saw a number of zip ties that could be problems, so I cut them and re zipped them with new. Had I been around the bus longer, I'd have probably noticed the shift panel sooner, but I just couldn't recall if it lit up initially or not. Plus that buzzer had me mind locked on the assumption it was an interlock issue.

I am 100% at this point that my bus has 3 interlock points and 2 of them buzz at the location of the issue. The rear window and side door buzz if they are interrupted. The rear engine door has an interlock that works, but doesn't buzz.

Big turning point for me was opening the rear modular control box in the rear. It has the push to start button, main disconnects, etc. Pulling the dash also helped get a visual picture of where everything was going.

At this stage, I'm a lot more comfortable with the buses setup, I know where everything is located...its better to have it happen this way, than to have to figure it all out on the side of the road. I figure, having an issue like this early, probably helps a lot of folks.

[RC000E]

Originally Posted by cowlitzcoach

WOW!

I just knew it had to be something simple since you drove it into the shop.

I was NOT aware of the how the World Trans models were wired up. That is good to know that it uses power directly from the battery. Is the hot side fused?

I am sure glad the fix was simple although finding it was not.

Now that the bus is running again I would imagine your stomach is not in your throat full of bile. BTDT with a bus more than once.

It is extremely aggravating knowing that you drove it in but now you can't get it to start no matter what you do.

Now forward and onward with the conversion.

Good luck and happy trails to you!

Yeah man...felt sure it was simple, but just had to find it. I wasted a lot of time early really set on the fact it had to be the stop sign or roof hatches...or an interlock in general. That was the easiest, most sensible explanation, but...it was not to be. Definitely thought it could be the batteries also, but putting on the high amp charger early eliminated that one.

Literally ended up having to pull the dash, pull the top cover of the TCU and expose the back of the shift panel to figure it all out.

Diagrams show the wiring for the transmission to be pretty direct. It goes from battery, to that rear modular distribution, then forward to the front...no fuse. Once power goes inside the TCU, there is a fuse. Inside there are two fuses, so check both for continuity and for voltage with the key on. I tested at that fuse to an independent ground initially, and it showed good voltage. Then I decided to use the ground supply the TCU actually had as my ground and the voltage dropped dramatically. So, I knew it had to be directly in the TCM ground supply. At that point I started back at the battery, checked it...it was good. So, I figured well...gotta go under, no choice. I crawled in there behind the battery box and it was right there. The guy who helped me pull the seats must've kinked it, disturbed it or whatever and that was that.

Crazy online how many allison dead shift panels I found and how many rv'ers actually had similar problems. Loss of that ground or power feed between the back and the front strands quite a number of people. Problem is, the allison tcu is LOOT and some people replace it and it still won't start.

Big help was finding this link also. I didn't follow his procedure, because I did my own based on diagrams, but this is very helpful for anyone with the allison.

http://www.transmissioninstruments.c...eshooting.html

If you have a no start and your shift panel isn't lit up with the key in the on position, start right there. The shift panel is the neutral safety switch, and if it's not lit up, your bus isn't going to start.