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Old 08-31-2017, 12:10 AM   #81
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I was originally going to use Bus kote but 175.00 to ship a 5 gal pail is asinine. I went with Snow roof. There is a very marked difference in temps now. Before I could not put my hand on the ceiling on a hot day. now it feels cold. Bus is a lot cooler now.
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Old 01-14-2018, 10:00 PM   #82
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Thank You Jazty - and a few thoughts

I was able to buy some of the Hytech microbeads from someone who didn't use all theirs (so the bias that I have them is hereby disclosed!).

I plan to install them but on the INSIDE for a few reasons:

In the areas I'm usually planning to be, I would rather deal with too much heat (and fan or ac it out), than too much cold. My understanding is that they tend to reflect or hold heat in if painted on the inside.

Also, talking with the sales rep at the company was helpful. I was told that for painting on a metal surface (trailer / van roof) it would help to add up to 6-7 coats! Whoa! Of course, probably after that many coats an 8th or 9th coat wouldn't make much more of a difference, but the point that Jazty made as to the value of adding more coats is a good one to keep in mind (with or without microbeads).

Also, an auto / body paint specialist I know reminded me of a few points:

- If the exterior paint is rough or slightly textured, it may look cool but it's harder to clean. A dirty / dusty exterior can't reflect light as well. This means that some of the reflective properties that Jazty found may be lost if you don't keep the exterior dust free.

- Also, someone mentioned using LineX. My understanding is that a lifetime warranty comes with LineX, but it costs a LOT. Plus, if it's scratched / keyed / etc, it doesn't look good and then you have to find out if the warranty will cover that. And possibly make a trip for a repair because it may be hard to find an off the shelf product that will cover up the problem as easily as a normal paint job might be touched up.

One area where the Hytech microbeads might make a difference (in addition to the inner side of the roof / walls, might be in a vehicle along the hot points such as the doghouse on a van. Also, along the exhaust or other hot pipe lines. More than just the temperature difference, one might gain:

1. Time (eg - 2 coats takes less time than 4 coats...not sure I have the patience or stamina for 6 coats unless just trying to treat some targeted hot and/or noisy areas)
2. Sound isolation (noise from engine or wheels / wheel wheels) can probably be better absorbed by the microbeads than another layer of paint.

As an added benefit which would occur even without microbeads,
I'm hoping to prevent rust which I've seen starting to occur on the INSIDE the contained area due to condensation.

Note: I'm not paid in anyway by the company. I really appreciate all the work Jazty did. I hope somehow someone can link this thread to the amazon reviews etc. Again much thanks to Jazty and all who have made this one of the best product review and comparison threads I've ever read!
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Old 01-14-2018, 10:34 PM   #83
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I have an IR temp gun. If it were me I would take 4-5 pieces of 6" square she metal and leave one painted with nothing else, one with bus coat, one with bus coat and beads, one with multiple coats of beads and bus coat and one black just for grins and leave them all in the sun for an hour and then check the temps of both sides of each piece. That will give you an answer if you're wasting your time or not. I do ceramic coating on exhausts and it is a proven heat barrier.
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Old 01-15-2018, 09:13 AM   #84
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I know there are strong opinions on the HiTech beads but I was convinced by personal experience. Did not run a scientific test, just put my hand on the inside of a tin roof that had nothing but two coats here in Houston when the temp was over 100. The treated area was barely warm while you could not touch the untreated sections without feeling like you were about to lose some skin. Very big difference. Works best on the inside of a surface that has some air gap behind it. I used it on the inside of the outer skin and also on the inside of the inner skin. Is it as good as 3" of closed cell urethane...no. But I am convinced for many applications it can make a very significant contribution for just a few bucks.

PS...I used a rate of 25% beads to 75% paint...two heavy coats, then a layer of aluminized "bubble wrap" insulation on each.
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Old 04-24-2019, 09:24 PM   #85
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Henry's Solar-Flex Sale!

Not sure if this is a national sale but at the Lowe's in Boise Idaho Henry's Solar-Flex is on clearance for $29.60 for 4.75 gallons! It's usually 74!
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Old 04-24-2019, 11:11 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shanimal808 View Post
Not sure if this is a national sale but at the Lowe's in Boise Idaho Henry's Solar-Flex is on clearance for $29.60 for 4.75 gallons! It's usually 74!
Our Lowes doesn't carry it, sale or not. HD has it for $79
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Old 08-16-2019, 09:54 PM   #87
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I don't know when/if my previous post is going to show up.
In the meantime, here are a couple of pertinent videos:

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Old 08-17-2019, 10:41 AM   #88
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So funny. The dome construction they show on their web page is made by Monolithic Dome. The shell is made of an outer balloon thats 30 mil UV resistant PVC with 3 of blown foam and then 3 of reinforced concrete. Whatever that stuff is, I doubt it acted as anything more than an extra moisture barrier.
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Old 08-17-2019, 12:16 PM   #89
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There are plenty of photos and examples metal roof/metal siding buildings on the texcote website, including one of the case studies:
http://www.texcote.com/case-studies/...anama-city-fl/
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Old 08-17-2019, 12:38 PM   #90
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I stumbled across this thread and thought I might be able to clear up a few things:



1. The key measure of how much heat is absorbed from sunlight is the Solar Reflective Index (SRI), which is directly proportional to the reflectivity & emissivity of the entire spectrum in sunlight (not just infrared), i.e.: high reflectivity & high emissivity = higher SRI.


2. The single most important value is the long-term (3-year) SRI, which is intended to measure the degradation due to weathering & dirt accumulation.


3. The best way to determine which paints or roof coatings is to check the Cool Roof Rating Council product directory:
coolroofs.org/directory (column headings allow sorting on 3-Yr SRI).
If a US-based seller/manufacturer of roof membranes or coatings is not listed there, it is very likely that they are not entirely 'on the level' (maybe not an outright fraud, but could be re-branding & reselling coatings that end-users could buy for a lot less).



4. Paints that appear to the same color or lightness do not necessarily have similar solar reflectance. For example, with most paints, a flat finish typically has a higher SRI than a gloss finish (because gloss finishes usually have lower emissivity), but there are other non-obvious aspects that also affect SRI. Some coatings are designed to allow darker colors to reflect more solar energy than a similar color 'ordinary' paint. Check this chart:
www.texcote.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/REFLECT_TEC_TSR.pdf
and the photos on 23 & 24 of this publication:
www.texcote.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/aia.pdf


That said, while there are several other factors besides the apparent color that significantly affect the SRI, the paints/coatings/membranes with the highest SRIs always appear very bright white to the human eye.


5. Most 'cool roof coatings' (like the Henry Solarflex mentioned in this thread) are relatively thick "liquid-applied elastomeric membranes" with a final thickness of 25 mils or more, which also means relatively low coverage (~ 50 Sq.Ft/gal). But there are also coatings with a typical final thickness of ~4-5 mils designed for use on sheet metal roofs or siding that apply much more like ordinary paint, with correspondingly higher coverage (150-200 Sq.Ft/gal).



Most this type (along with pre-finished metal roofing panels) that have the highest SRIs use Arkema's Kynar PVDF resins and a lot of titanium dioxide pigment, both which are uniquely well-suited to this task, and which have been used in high-end manufactured metal roofing for decades. AFAIK, none of the manufacturers of the highest SRI 'paint' products in CRRC make any claims about using "ceramic beads" as the "secret" behind their effectiveness. Examples of 'paints' with some of the highest long-term SRIs available: Tex-Coat Reflect-Tec, Nutech NXT Cool Coat, and GAF Kymax Coating. Though some of these aren't cheap, their much higher coverage makes them as affordable as mid-range acrylic roof coatings sold at Home Depot.


A few mainstream, readily available, competitively-priced roof coatings/paints do have "ceramic bead" additives, e.g.:
www.lancopaints.com/usa/en/products/sealers-waterproofers/sealers-waterproofers-sealers-waterproofers/urethanizer/
...but their SRI ratings prove they do not have higher solar reflectance than other similar coatings without "ceramic bead" additives.


6. The idea being promoted by some marketers that "ceramic beads" in paint are exceptional is misleading because almost all paint or roof coatings have fillers that, strictly speaking, are ceramic beads. Even the pigments used would also be considered ceramics. Commonly available user-added anti-slip additives are another example of this type of filler.


The commercial/industrial sectors in the US has developed just about every highly effective product imaginable for almost any application, and this competitive marketplace drives innovation. While it is true that coatings with the best performance cost more than more economical coatings, the likelihood that a break-through product is available to end-users from an online vendor but not widely available & or widely used in larger-scale commercial applications, is extremely low.



I think most people would be a lot better off buying mainstream products from reputable retail outlets. Maybe you'll have to special-order it, but if you can't get it from Lowes/Home Depot or one of your local contractor supply wholesalers, odds are it's not going to be a good value for your application.
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Old 12-25-2019, 11:31 PM   #91
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Henry's Tropicool is ranked #5 on the 3yr Solar Reflective Index mentioned in the previous post! AND, it is actually intended to be used on RV/motorhome roofs.
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Old 12-26-2019, 10:19 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolarThermal Reality View Post
I think most people would be a lot better off buying mainstream products from reputable retail outlets. Maybe you'll have to special-order it, but if you can't get it from Lowes/Home Depot or one of your local contractor supply wholesalers, odds are it's not going to be a good value for your application.
^This

Large paint companies have full time chemists, scientists and engineers that devote their entire careers studying paint and it's many applications. To think some guy with a geocities website has found a better solution then all of them ? I doubt it, looks like another batch of low grade snake oil to me.

Personally I would worry about shorting the lifespan of the paint by tossing foreign materiel into it.
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Old 12-27-2019, 05:31 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
I have an IR temp gun. If it were me I would take 4-5 pieces of 6" square she metal and leave one painted with nothing else, one with bus coat, one with bus coat and beads, one with multiple coats of beads and bus coat and one black just for grins and leave them all in the sun for an hour and then check the temps of both sides of each piece. That will give you an answer if you're wasting your time or not. I do ceramic coating on exhausts and it is a proven heat barrier.
A member here did something very much like that a few years ago using several different coatings.

Buscool mixed with white paint and applied worked a very Little bit better than sawdust mixed with white paint.

That thread should be a sticky as often as this comes up.
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