Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-12-2017, 06:24 PM   #41
Bus Crazy
 
CaptSquid's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,269
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: HDX
Engine: Cat C7
Rated Cap: 84 passenger
At least 1" of rigid insulation is necessary. More is better. You might have to do some trimming around the rear dog house (for RE buses) and the AC channels.
CaptSquid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-06-2019, 07:56 PM   #42
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 30
I have extra 1/4” cork underlayment leftover from the subfloor, so I’m planning to glue this to the side walls, then glue 1” rigid insulation over the top of that to fit between the sidewall steel ribs. Will add wood furring strips to the steel ribs and attach finish pine to that for interior wall.
Ceiling I have a different plan.
I have dynamite layer on the roof in the front for engine and road noise while driving.
On top of that, I have 3” rockwool insulation and will build wood furring strips on the steel ribs to extend the roof 1” to fit the insulation (no compression!) then, the pine finish wood will screw into those wooden strips.
With radiant barriers in standard homes/ green building construction, you need a 1” air gap between the hot surface and the foil face so the air can escape and move around behind that space. Adding radiant barrier blocked in with no air gap is not going to work as intended to block that radiant heat. Keep this in mind on your builds!
Shorty22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2020, 09:27 PM   #43
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: Washington DC
Posts: 124
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins
Rated Cap: 37'
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty22 View Post
I have extra 1/4” cork underlayment leftover from the subfloor, so I’m planning to glue this to the side walls, then glue 1” rigid insulation over the top of that to fit between the sidewall steel ribs. Will add wood furring strips to the steel ribs and attach finish pine to that for interior wall.
Ceiling I have a different plan.
I have dynamite layer on the roof in the front for engine and road noise while driving.
On top of that, I have 3” rockwool insulation and will build wood furring strips on the steel ribs to extend the roof 1” to fit the insulation (no compression!) then, the pine finish wood will screw into those wooden strips.
With radiant barriers in standard homes/ green building construction, you need a 1” air gap between the hot surface and the foil face so the air can escape and move around behind that space. Adding radiant barrier blocked in with no air gap is not going to work as intended to block that radiant heat. Keep this in mind on your builds!

Hello there! Can you tell me a little more about how you designed your floor insulation with cork underpayment? Did you use anything else. like foam board or plywood? Is the cork your insulation, or is it serving as your floor?

Thanks so much! Eager to focus on as much non toxic as possible.
Sevier is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-13-2020, 11:49 PM   #44
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2018
Posts: 30
@Savier

My flooring layers are:
-Sheet metal body (bottom), with galvanized metal primer
-1x2” “floor joists” spaced every 24” o.c. along width (parallel to axels) glued to metal floor AND -Between the wood floor joists are 1” rigid foam board (meant for subfloors)
-reflectix (foil bubble wrap stuff) layer over the top
-5/8” plywood layer, edges meet floor joists, screwed to wooden floor joists, taped and caulked seams
-1/4” cork underlayment layer, seams taped
-tongue and groove engineered hardwood floating floors (top)

furniture will be secured to side walls (mainly along the chair rail and 2x4” wood studs between steel ribs) and will wedge a over the floor to secure the flooring in place with various locations where furniture will be screwed down.

In hindsight, I wish I would have spaced the floor joists where it would match up perfectly with the base of my furniture and/or taken into consideration lining up the wall studs (steel bus ribs) with the floor joists for a cleaner lineup.
Shorty22 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-08-2021, 08:51 AM   #45
New Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2021
Posts: 2
I know this was posted 13 years ago, so asking a question might be a long shot. That being said:
After putting the aluminum flake/asphalt mix on, would one be able to drill through it easily enough? We want to partially deck the top of ours, but I know the paint must come before the decking.
Thanks for reading/replying. Any other advice would be appreciated. We will be buying our bus sometime this month and are ready to drop $5k to start the build!
hidden_leaf is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
These are my options opus Everything Else | General Skoolie Discussions 7 07-04-2010 06:33 PM
Insulation on a budget and wall framing options TygerCub Conversion General Discussions 1 06-23-2009 07:08 AM
How do I tell what options a bus has? zamfir Everything Else | General Skoolie Discussions 2 06-08-2009 08:33 AM
What Are My Options? retrogeek42 Conversion General Discussions 2 09-27-2008 08:22 AM
More options busone Conversion General Discussions 0 01-25-2005 07:56 PM

» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:43 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×