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Old 09-05-2019, 07:21 AM   #1
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Houston
Posts: 336
Year: 2003
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 30,000
International 30ft fe roof raise

Hello I have a flat nose bus I’m looking to raise .
I have most of the gutting done and need to order material .
I’m thinking square tubing for hat channel extensions . And then try to make the original hat channel to but up on the gap made from the roof raise .


So square tubeing on inside of the hat channel and something lapping over the original hat channel from the back inside the bus.
Also when I started taking off my rub rail under the windows there’s no lap or bead to sit the new panels on. Usually everyone has a lip where there’s a (structural ) not sure... fold .
I don’t have that .... I would prefer that and expected it .... so should I leave the rub rail on. Let my sheets sit on top of it and slide them under the upper rivets and re install the drip rail.

Or slide panel under rain drip rail. Take Off rub rail. Let the panels hang from those rivets. Then once I’m close to being finished with the rivets and the sheets are nice and tight . Reinstall rub rail and drill through new panels . With out the sheet resting on anything

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Old 09-05-2019, 10:29 AM   #2
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Just remove the top row of rivets on the rub rail keeping the bottom lip secured. Lay your metal in and rest on the bottom row of rivets. I did this and then bowed the sheet out until it slid up under the drip edge.
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Old 09-05-2019, 10:52 AM   #3
Bus Nut
 
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Houston
Posts: 336
Year: 2003
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 30,000
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Just remove the top row of rivets on the rub rail keeping the bottom lip secured. Lay your metal in and rest on the bottom row of rivets. I did this and then bowed the sheet out until it slid up under the drip edge.
Exactly what I was thinking !
Damnnn so you took off the drip edge on the top ? I’ve seen people just pry it out?
What bus do you have ?
What gauge panels did you use and size of rivets ?
Also did you use square tubing and flat bar ? Or hat channel lapping the old from the outside of bus or laying on top from the inside?
I feel like square tubing and having hat channel would really make no weak points
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Old 09-05-2019, 11:04 AM   #4
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by BusT View Post
Exactly what I was thinking !
Damnnn so you took off the drip edge on the top ? I’ve seen people just pry it out?
What bus do you have ?
What gauge panels did you use and size of rivets ?
Also did you use square tubing and flat bar ? Or hat channel lapping the old from the outside of bus or laying on top from the inside?
I feel like square tubing and having hat channel would really make no weak points
I didn't do a raise, just removed the windows and replaced with sheet metal. NO need to do anything to the drip edge, just slide the metal between it and the hat channel, secure at the top by tack welding. On the outside I replaced the rivets with screws the same size.
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