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03-05-2021, 10:30 AM
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#1
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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International steering wheel installation issue
I've got a '95 3800 that I pulled the steering wheel off of while trying to remove and replace the turn signal switch. Switch is replaced but for the life of me I can't get the wheel to get started on the splines at all. There's no exposed thread from the steering column to get the nut on. I've lined it up and tried whacking an impact socket with a small sledge but it just won't get even the slightest bite onto the splines. I've pulled off the turn signal collar and confirmed that there's absolutely nothing interfering with the wheel sliding on other than the spline fit. Tomorrow I'm going to try heating up the steering wheel center section with a heat gun but I'm hoping there's some basic thing I'm missing here.
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03-05-2021, 10:35 AM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Posts: 1,222
Year: 1999
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: TC1000 HandyBus
Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
Rated Cap: 26 foot
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I don't have an answer, but maybe pictures can help
__________________
Look at the Sky; look at the River. Isn't it Good?
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03-05-2021, 10:53 AM
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#3
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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Sure, here are some pictures showing the splines as well as the fit.
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03-05-2021, 11:01 AM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2014
Location: West Ohio
Posts: 3,813
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You're missing something that isn't lining up.
It shouldn't be that hard to install. And it should require no heat or hammering, so don't do either of those to try and force it.
Maybe clean the rust off and see if that helps. But I'd bet there is a pin or a skipped spline that you're not lining up that is causing the issue.
You shouldn't heat or hammer that on though.
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03-05-2021, 11:55 AM
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#5
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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Unfortunately I've inspected the splines on the column and the wheel and they're all good. I removed the turn signal collar on the column housing to confirm that there was nothing interfering with the fit, and there isn't. The wheel goes on no further and I'm able to confirm clearance behind the wheel. I've installed steering wheels before and I've never had this kind of trouble.
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03-05-2021, 02:59 PM
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#6
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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It might have been good to mark the wheel and column housing with a grease pen or something so that the wheel could be realigned exactly as it came off. I think there could be a keyway slot or something that only allows the wheel to be installed in one position, so look for that.
It could be something simple like sunlight on the shaft causing it to warm and expand, making it a tight fit if the splined hole in the wheel is not getting such exposure. You might try installing it late evening when everything is cool and see if it fits better.
Compressed air duster cans turned upside down can freeze what they are sprayed on, you might try doing that to the steering shaft and warming the steering wheel hub slightly with a match. Freezing the shaft will make it shrink and warming the steering wheel hub with a match will make it expand, possibly enough to eliminate clearance issues. You might also try rotating the wheel slightly to see if perhaps spline edges are misaligned just enough to keep it from plopping into place.
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03-05-2021, 07:56 PM
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#7
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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I marked the wheel and shaft with two paint marks, but when cleaning the wheel splines they were partially removed. Still visible in bright light, though. No keyway or slot or visible damage to the splines, and I've spun the wheel around 360* numerous times trying to find any bite whatsoever. I'll probably go at it with the heat gun on the wheel center and some ice on the column tomorrow morning.
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03-05-2021, 08:14 PM
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#8
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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I just noticed something.... *click to enlarge*
You can clearly see that the splines are not keyed, but will only allow the hub to slide on from one direction, and it appears to be pointed the wrong way. Is the picture of the wheel hub from underneath or topside? I wonder if it's possible the center hub somehow fell out in the midst of all this and was perhaps reinstalled upside down? That would invert the smooth bore and the splined sections, keeping them from even contacting each other, much less mating. Just a thought.
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03-05-2021, 08:22 PM
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#9
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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Good idea but unfortunately the wheel center isn't loose. The picture of the wheel center is from the bottom side.
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03-05-2021, 08:41 PM
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#10
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pignoble
Good idea but unfortunately the wheel center isn't loose. The picture of the wheel center is from the bottom side.
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Then perhaps this is your problem...
I believe you'll find holes in the steering wheel hub through which to tighten these screws for reinstallation. I hate to suggest it, but I wonder if removing the steering wheel was even necessary if that's the case.
The reason I thought the hub might be upside down is that you can clearly see in your pictures where the spline pattern can be seen on the smooth bore side, and the splines are only open to be aligned on one end, they abruptly end to prevent further engagement, so it seems otherwise impossible for the splines to contact the smooth bore.
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03-05-2021, 08:49 PM
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#11
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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Not sure if I already mentioned it but I have tried removing the turn signal switch and collar and had no change in wheel fitment.
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03-05-2021, 08:55 PM
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#12
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pignoble
Not sure if I already mentioned it but I have tried removing the turn signal switch and collar and had no change in wheel fitment.
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That you did, I must have forgotten about it. Hopefully the shrink inner / expand outer method will work. Just happened to notice that in the pics and thought I'd ask to make sure. I'm wondering about that wire and whether it is not out of place and getting in the way. Without seeing the way it came apart, it's hard to say.
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03-05-2021, 11:35 PM
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#13
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Port angeles, Wa
Posts: 322
Year: 90
Coachwork: bluebird conventional
Chassis: international
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 72
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The steering shaft has slipped down the tube. Have someone push up on the shaft from underneath and the wheel will slip on.
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03-06-2021, 12:21 AM
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#14
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebird90
The steering shaft has slipped down the tube. Have someone push up on the shaft from underneath and the wheel will slip on.
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Wow. Can't believe I didn't think of that. I believe bb90 is right, OP. It wouldn't take much.
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03-06-2021, 10:34 AM
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#15
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New Member
Join Date: Jan 2017
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebird90
The steering shaft has slipped down the tube. Have someone push up on the shaft from underneath and the wheel will slip on.
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Amazing! My steering wheel is now reinstalled, no second set of hands even needed. Pulled about an inch out, set the wheel down on top of it lined up with my marks and threaded on the nut. This has been bothering me for two weeks while I dealt with other projects, what a relief!
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03-06-2021, 10:44 AM
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#16
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 1,075
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC2000, 40' MPV
Engine: 5.9 Cummins/B300 trans
Rated Cap: U/K
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To be perfectly honest, that is something I never would have thought of. Good job
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03-06-2021, 12:14 PM
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#17
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Near Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 1,951
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: "Atomic"
Engine: DD 8V71
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It's the shaft...which slid down the tube.
<laughing>
I'm just trying to seem as "on the ball" as BB90.  This is so obvious...now...but didn't occur to me either. Very nicely done, sir!
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03-06-2021, 03:22 PM
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#18
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor
It's the shaft...which slid down the tube.
<laughing>
I'm just trying to seem as "on the ball" as BB90. This is so obvious...now...but didn't occur to me either. Very nicely done, sir! |
Huh-huh... Huh-huh...
And then he said ball...
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03-06-2021, 04:27 PM
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#19
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2020
Location: Near Flagstaff AZ
Posts: 1,951
Year: 1974
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: "Atomic"
Engine: DD 8V71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON
Huh-huh... Huh-huh...
And then he said ball...
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Oh my, I just spit out my coffee laughing! Thanks CW.
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03-06-2021, 05:42 PM
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#20
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Traveling
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,302
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rossvtaylor
Oh my, I just spit out my coffee laughing! Thanks CW.
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As some former coworkers said, "Insert Tab A in Slot B" and "It was there". 
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