Lift rear of bus

[ol trunt]

It would not suprise me to learn that extra leaves were added to the original springs when the lift went in. As to using blocks I don't see any inherent problem with them as long as they have a hole for the spring center pin to fit into and a pin on the other side to match the hole in the axle (or whatever arrangement of pin and hole works) and proper "U" bolts to keep them tightly in place. If you lift only to the former height you will not have changed the geometry of things so you should have no problems that way nor should you need any additional sway bars or traction bars. If you find that you have more body roll than before you might consider heftier rear shocks (larger bore, bigger valves, double action). Good luck.

[Stuff]

just add a rear lift kit or air bags?

[Motobus]

Where are you reading the negative about lift blocks, a 4x4 site? I highly doubt you would have any negative effects from 2" lift blocks. The springs are E350 springs, they may not be as stiff as you need but they are still stiff one ton springs. Axle wrap is likely to happen to guys lifting 1/2 trucks, with soft springs anyway, and is compounded with high hp engines and a heavy right foot. 2" of lift blocks is not much, the taller the block, the more leverage the axle has against the spring. If you were talking 1/2 ton springs, with 6 inches of blocks you would need some kind of traction bar or bars.

Lift blocks get an automatic stamp of disaproval my many that don't really know because they have heard Lift blocks=bad" I would make a solid steel 2" block, as you will be more likely to get it right the first time than altering the spring packs. However, If you have 2" of straight overload springs to use instead of blocks that may be easier.

Go look under some 3/4 and 1 ton new pickups and see their lift blocks.