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Old 03-02-2024, 03:38 PM   #1
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Mount Military MEP 802 Generator

Has anyone mounted one of these under their bus or on the back of their bus?

I am trying to figure out a good way to do this. One idea is to build a bumper extension. The other is to take it out of its enclosure and put it under the side. The bumper extension seems the most straight forward.



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Old 03-02-2024, 03:53 PM   #2
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That thing is big and heavy 51" long and almost 900#. Too tall for under and IMHO too heavy for in front of or rear of. And it's only 5000W.
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Old 03-02-2024, 05:23 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by somewhereinusa View Post
That thing is big and heavy 51" long and almost 900#. Too tall for under and IMHO too heavy for in front of or rear of. And it's only 5000W.

It's 50". It fits across the back. People have put heavier things on the back of their bus.

I could disassemble it and put it under the bus but it would be a lot of work. I don't know if it is worth it. Maybe someone here has done it and can say.
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Old 03-02-2024, 06:17 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by heimlich View Post
It's 50". It fits across the back. People have put heavier things on the back of their bus.

I could disassemble it and put it under the bus but it would be a lot of work. I don't know if it is worth it. Maybe someone here has done it and can say.
Too nice of a unit to cut up and modify. That thing would be perfect on a small jet ski trailer and used.... wherever you need it!

It would stick out like a sore thumb hon the back of the bus.
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Old 03-02-2024, 06:27 PM   #5
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Too nice of a unit to cut up and modify. That thing would be perfect on a small jet ski trailer and used.... wherever you need it!

It would stick out like a sore thumb hon the back of the bus.
That's the main reason I have against it is that it is already a solitary unit.

Busses already stick out as is so adding more too it doesn't bother me. It's 33 inches wide so it wouldn't stick out that much out the back. The 50 inch length is about the width of the rear door.

Another idea would be to make a slider for it so that when it is parked I could slide it out the back. There are some heavy duty sliders that can support that kind of weight.
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Old 03-02-2024, 08:39 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by heimlich View Post
That's the main reason I have against it is that it is already a solitary unit.

Busses already stick out as is so adding more too it doesn't bother me. It's 33 inches wide so it wouldn't stick out that much out the back. The 50 inch length is about the width of the rear door.

Another idea would be to make a slider for it so that when it is parked I could slide it out the back. There are some heavy duty sliders that can support that kind of weight.
Why not sell it and get something newer?

Sticking 3 feet out the back, not to offend but to me looks like crap.
Maybe you could build a small platform out the back, cover it up some and have a space for a grill on the deck???

this design actually looks good... post 11, https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/d...tml#post506940
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Old 03-02-2024, 10:16 PM   #7
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Why not sell it and get something newer?

Sticking 3 feet out the back, not to offend but to me looks like crap.
Maybe you could build a small platform out the back, cover it up some and have a space for a grill on the deck???

this design actually looks good... post 11, https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/d...tml#post506940
You guys are tough. Thankfully there's no skoolie HOA.

That's the idea with the bumper extension. There might even be room for the minisplit.
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Old 03-02-2024, 11:13 PM   #8
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I harvested a diesel light tower to take apart and put on my bus a generator. The kubota engines on them are about 21inches from valve cover to drain plug. Custom toolbox it will mount in. The equivalent Onan/Cummins units were 10-15k. and too tall to undermount. I had thouught about one of these military diesel generators, but some of them have some rare engines that are hard to get parts for. A lot of these sell near me because rather than the replace parts, the local unit just cannibalizes the fleet to pick them apart. My brother has a magnum 25kw one that was a special military contract model where they only made 250 (and skipped a lot of the red tape of parts contracts). He has had a heck of a time locating OEM parts for the engine they used. They are nice units and really good for home backup, but dang they are heavy for the power output. If you were to use one, you should try to forklift it into the backdoor and just build a garage in the back to house all your systems like breaker panels, water pumps etc. Need a place to store tools and stuff. Then pipe the exhaust outside and add a maxair fan or something for cold air intake.
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Old 03-03-2024, 12:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heimlich View Post
Has anyone mounted one of these under their bus or on the back of their bus?

I am trying to figure out a good way to do this. One idea is to build a bumper extension. The other is to take it out of its enclosure and put it under the side. The bumper extension seems the most straight forward.


---------------------


The photo provided has a watermark from Govdeals.com

Is this your this gene? If not, upgrade your rivet gun first.


We often find ourselves discussing some parallel world or future fantasy, a day dream inspired by a online photo.

Did you finish the engine swap that you wrote about 'doing'? Did you haul the crate motor in your bus?

Daydreams are okay. We are each more proud of our accomplishments, than we are of our fantasies. Post some photos of all the hard work you've been completing!

In a previous post, you mentioned using aluminum rivets on your patches because your gun is to weak. If you have the time and cash for inefficiency, invest your money & time on a rivet tool, too.
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Old 03-03-2024, 01:02 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
---------------------
Did you finish the engine swap that you wrote about 'doing'?

The photo provided has a watermark from Govdeals.com

Is this your this gene? If not, upgrade your rivet gun first.

In a previous post, you mentioned using aluminum rivets on your patches because your gun is to weak. More cost effective to invest you $ and energy there.

Or are we discussing some parallel world or future fantasy, a day dream inspired by a online photo?
The engine swap is done but there was a warn light I have to figure out.

The generator photo is from a classifieds ad on this site. I have one just like it.

I haven't put the patches on. Is there a reason I can not use aluminum rivets for it? Would you mind posting in the your thread about that so as not to side track this one?

I think I have pretty much decided to do the frame extension. It seems the most straightforward unless the insurance company won't insure it. I know there is one company that won't insure you if anything sticks out the back.
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Old 03-03-2024, 01:09 PM   #11
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🤐

Do I mind side tracking a finished tutorial to answer galvanic reaction questions which were already answered within said tutorial (explicitly, post #61), instead of 'sidetracking' this lovely masterpiece which you have spent so much time researching, photographing & documenting? No.

Surely, I can respect your long term investment into this thread. I can see you've done your homework. Wouldn't want to smudge the 15,000 views you've had so far.

🤔One of us ought to start a new thread, titiled "Stainless vs Aluminum Rivets.

The gene above is not a good choice for skoolies. There is an easier, softer way to produce energy. You will likely do as you wish.
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Old 03-03-2024, 01:23 PM   #12
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I spoke to a guy at JayCee. I got the same rivets you did and realized I couldn't put them in easily. JayCee said I should use aluminum as it would be easier and sold me the same rivet made out of aluminum. I was only asking if there was some reason to pick steel vs aluminum. I read your whole thread, then I searched through it for stainless, steel, and aluminum. I can't find where you write that stainless steel is better than aluminum for some reason.

What does the number of views have to do with anything? I'm having a hard time understanding you. The writeup on your panel installation was top notch though. I made my parts list of 16 gauge panels and rivets from it.
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Old 03-03-2024, 04:43 PM   #13
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I really like military generators, but not for my Crowns. Military gensets will run forever but when you needs parts, they may not be available. I used Onan gensets. On a Crown they will fit in the spare tire well. In the "new Crown" I installed a 6.5DKD model. It is heavy at 517 lbs, but not more than the existing spare tire mount can handle with re-enforcements. It was a tight squeeze that took some thinking to get past. Being a water cooled diesel setup made heat less of a problem.

I will say that Onans are spendy to get, but maybe worth the cost.
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Old 03-03-2024, 05:09 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by flattracker View Post
I will say that Onans are spendy to get, but maybe worth the cost.
Here were all the options I went through before deciding on the military unit:

1. Onan diesel
2. China diesel aircooled
3. China diesel watercooled
4. Gasoline
5. Used onan diesel (to rebuild)
6 Military diesel unit

The Wanderlodge BlueBirds are a nice model with the generators tucked in the side and in the front. That would be a nice idea to modify a flat nose but I have a dog nose bus.
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Old 03-03-2024, 05:58 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by heimlich View Post
I spoke to a guy at JayCee. I got the same rivets you did and realized I couldn't put them in easily. JayCee said I should use aluminum as it would be easier and sold me the same rivet made out of aluminum. I was only asking if there was some reason to pick steel vs aluminum. I read your whole thread, then I searched through it for stainless, steel, and aluminum. I can't find where you write that stainless steel is better than aluminum for some reason.

What does the number of views have to do with anything? I'm having a hard time understanding you. The writeup on your panel installation was top notch though. I made my parts list of 16 gauge panels and rivets from it.

Use aluminum rivets on aluminum and stainless steel on steel. If it's too hard to close them, get a pneumatic rivet gun. I used 3/16 rivets on patches and 1/4 rivets to replace a few of the factory buck rivets. 3/16 I use a manual rivet gun and 1/4 I use the harbor freight pneumatic.
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Old 03-04-2024, 08:19 AM   #16
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Aren't those military units loud? Won't make any friends with it if it is.

Another source is a Semi truck APU. That's what I went with on mine, modified of course. It could be be quieter, but inside with the AC on I sleep without an issue. A better sound enclosure for it would help immensely.

What kind of bus do you have? I've long thought about putting a genset up front on an RE bus. Seems like you could build a dog house like what's found on FE buses and utilize the empty space, and it's away from where most people put their sleeping quarters.
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Old 03-04-2024, 08:53 AM   #17
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You could cut the side and make a specific box for it while keeping it close to the axle. I will say that 900lbs is insane to load up the GVWR of the bus. Mine was a DKD7.5. I cut the floor and skirt while adding box tube steel to reinforce the area. Generator sticks above interior floor but with the roof raise it just became a simple step in the hallway leading to the bedroom. CDH was also incorporated into the design with an access planned for servicing.

I know you don't want to hear this, but that generator is a fine unit for home standby. People here have experience and are only trying to help you. If you end up doing solar on the roof, your generator size can go down. 5000 watts should only weigh no more than 300lbs.
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Old 03-04-2024, 09:46 AM   #18
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Aren't those military units loud? Won't make any friends with it if it is.

Another source is a Semi truck APU. That's what I went with on mine, modified of course. It could be be quieter, but inside with the AC on I sleep without an issue. A better sound enclosure for it would help immensely.

What kind of bus do you have? I've long thought about putting a genset up front on an RE bus. Seems like you could build a dog house like what's found on FE buses and utilize the empty space, and it's away from where most people put their sleeping quarters.

I have a 28 foot dog nose bus.

APU does look like another good option.

I like the idea of sliding a generator into the middle of a front of a flat nose bus with the engine in the rear. It's seems like a really good place for it.

I can't think of a place to do a slide out for this one. Maybe in the rear? There are some really heavy duty slides out there that can hold some weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bus'n it View Post
You could cut the side and make a specific box for it while keeping it close to the axle.

I know you don't want to hear this, but that generator is a fine unit for home standby. People here have experience and are only trying to help you. If you end up doing solar on the roof, your generator size can go down. 5000 watts should only weigh no more than 300lbs.
I like the way you did that. That is what I was looking for. I like those Onan's but every time I tried to touch one the price was too much.

You have a good point about the weight. I was going to put a motorcycle on the back at some point so I think it will be ok for now. I can just trade out later on.

I'd already bought the military generator before I posted this thread so I'm just trying to figure out the best way forward.

If I didn't want to hear opinions I wouldn't have asked about it. Most everyone here has been helpful except 1 and I don't know what that was all about.

I don't have plans for solar at the moment. I might get a few panels and slide them in the back under everything. I didn't like the idea of the panels on top of the bus. Insurance has been really hard to get to I am trying to avoid all the things that stick out. I can remove the bumper extension if I have to.
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Old 03-04-2024, 12:10 PM   #19
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You could get one of those larger battery backups. I know it may seem redundant if you get solar panels and batteries, but in the space you'd put a generator in, use a battery backup which will remain charged until you need it to give you extra length in time. No noise either.
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