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Old 11-13-2019, 12:03 PM   #21
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Did you use a chipping hammer when running those beads?



John
No that's just straight out of the mig gun

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Old 11-13-2019, 12:08 PM   #22
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Here's another one going two pieces of 1/4". Disregard the splatter on the left and the beads in the center of the top piece that's from yesterday.IMG_20191113_120605.jpg

It's got a few bugholes (?) At the end but I think it looks ok. Then again I just started welding yesterday so I don't know squat lol
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:22 PM   #23
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Are there any jobs w/ your buses you have not being able to tackle with it, ECCB?
Its done a roof raise, tacked a couple catalytic converter heat shields, and a few other odd jobs. Its good for up to 1/4" or so, and I like how it welds for the $450 price.
I'd say its probably THE best buy for a budget part time welder.
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Old 11-13-2019, 12:30 PM   #24
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Here's another one going two pieces of 1/4". Disregard the splatter on the left and the beads in the center of the top piece that's from yesterday.Attachment 39267

It's got a few bugholes (?) At the end but I think it looks ok. Then again I just started welding yesterday so I don't know squat lol
Looks pretty good to me, especially for the first time. All I did was burn holes in sheet metal my first time out. Only things I'd suggest is keep practicing to get your speed more consistent, and use a flap disk to take the pieces down to shiny metal where you're welding them (that will get rid of some of the slaggy bits).

I noticed you're welding outside (?), so the holes might be from your shielding gas being displaced by the wind briefly. On your first beads, I was going to recommend pausing at the end briefly before letting go of the trigger to prevent the crater at the end, but it looks like you're already doing that in the later pic.
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Old 11-13-2019, 01:10 PM   #25
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Looks pretty good to me, especially for the first time. All I did was burn holes in sheet metal my first time out. Only things I'd suggest is keep practicing to get your speed more consistent, and use a flap disk to take the pieces down to shiny metal where you're welding them (that will get rid of some of the slaggy bits).

I noticed you're welding outside (?), so the holes might be from your shielding gas being displaced by the wind briefly. On your first beads, I was going to recommend pausing at the end briefly before letting go of the trigger to prevent the crater at the end, but it looks like you're already doing that in the later pic.
Thanks. Yeah this piece of 1/4" was straight out of the bin at TSC. No prep at all. I am outside and my cfh is at about 20. I reckon I could crank it up a little bit and see how that changes things. I did remember from the videos I watched how they would always hold the gun at the end of the weld before lifting it, so I did that.
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Old 11-13-2019, 05:12 PM   #26
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Its done a roof raise, tacked a couple catalytic converter heat shields, and a few other odd jobs. Its good for up to 1/4" or so, and I like how it welds for the $450 price.
I'd say its probably THE best buy for a budget part time welder.

Thank you, sir!
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Old 11-20-2019, 03:50 PM   #27
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I am not much of a metal worker. Looking at the structure around emergency exit in my Bluebird, I would not attempt to reproduce that structure without some good help.

I deleted mine.
My husband installed our lift in our 1993 Bluebird. There was no original opening for a lift. He fabricated the doors and it everything works perfectly. Not one problem with the mechanism or structure of the sidewall.
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:00 PM   #28
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3bgees, can you provide photos? it would be interesting to see how He did it.

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Old 11-20-2019, 05:24 PM   #29
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Our handicap entrance and two doors work beautifully. Not much hassle to do. Made my own doors on our 1993 Bluebird.
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Old 11-30-2019, 12:43 PM   #30
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IMG_20191126_141249.jpgThinking about just riveting a panel of the new skin straight into the door frame here. It wouldn't be flush with the rest of the skin obviously but it seems like the easiest solution. thoughts?
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Old 12-01-2019, 09:44 AM   #31
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Attachment 39682Thinking about just riveting a panel of the new skin straight into the door frame here. It wouldn't be flush with the rest of the skin obviously but it seems like the easiest solution. thoughts?
981-314-1404 easier to explain over phone
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:33 PM   #32
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I was sincere in my admiration. Not saying it can't be done. Just that I wouldn't have the guts to try it ;)

What Hobart did you get? I REALLY want a 210 MVP
I have the 210 mvp and am somewhat of a metal worker ... by trade at least and now kind of a neccesity... I love it ... want to try gas but flux core is doing fine ....
Iíve done some gates and little projects ... and before that did a roof rack on my ambulance van for solar and a hitch rack..
Then I tackled this transition similar to transcendence bus.
The Hobart is expensive and heavy hahah 90lbs i think
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:39 PM   #33
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Some times I kind of think the 140 would of suited me just fine ...
and be lighter .
Moving around the 210 is sometimes a chore ...
i like to put my welder in the garage every night and not leave it out when I’m not home ..... needless to say.
It really burns though and I did lots of light 22g and sheet metal work running on 240 also can burn 3/8 i think .... 5/16 for sure ... but i haven’t needed it for that yet ...
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Old 02-07-2020, 09:42 PM   #34
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Hey Marc any detailed pics of the barn doors and how they latch?
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Old 02-08-2020, 02:57 AM   #35
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Some times I kind of think the 140 would of suited me just fine ...
and be lighter .
Moving around the 210 is sometimes a chore ...
i like to put my welder in the garage every night and not leave it out when Iím not home ..... needless to say.
It really burns though and I did lots of light 22g and sheet metal work running on 240 also can burn 3/8 i think .... 5/16 for sure ... but i havenít needed it for that yet ...
I love my 140.
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Old 02-08-2020, 05:15 PM   #36
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I love my 140.
And itís almost half the price )
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