Nailed in plywood

[ChurchBuz]

Can somebody give me the skinny on getting this nailed (into sheet metal) plywood out?

I’m sure that someone has already figured this out

Please help

[ChurchBuz]

There has got to be a better way than just levers and prying.

[ChurchBuz]

I found a splitting wedge. But none of this is spelling fun.

[ChurchBuz]

Anyone want to buy a bus for cheap?

[TheHubbardBus]

LOL. Love your stream of consciousness posting. It brings back (bad) memories.

FWIW, after going after it with a crowbar the first (and last) time, I wish I had been a little more gentle. It's possible to bend the underlying metal if you really manhandle it with alot of leverage. We had a few spots where it lipped up the steel surrounding a screw/nail just enough to cause interference when we went to put down the sleepers for our flooring later. If you have a nice flat floor under that wood you want to keep it that way. If I had to do it all over again I'd probably try some method of grinding/drilling/cutting the nail heads off so the flooring came up w/a minimum of effort. Then deal with any remaining bits still penetrating the floor once the wood was gone (careful not to penetrate your feet with rusty nails!). Maybe an angle grinder, which would both take the nail heads off & cut into / weaken the wood surrounding the nail body at the same time?

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

use a skil saw with blade set to depth and run it down the nail line.
pull the plywood and then cut the remaining nail studs flush with a grinder.

[ChurchBuz]

Got one!

Not sure if I did it right, but it came up in one piece.

I do recommend ear plugs.

[musigenesis]

Circular saw with demo blade set to about 3/4" depth. Make longitudinal and transverse cuts on the floor about 1' apart to cut the plywood into one foot squares, then pry up each square with a crow bar one at a time. You're fighting against an awful lot of glue force trying to get entire pieces up all in one go.

[TheHubbardBus]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

use a skil saw with blade set to depth and run it down the nail line.
pull the plywood and then cut the remaining nail studs flush with a grinder.

That's smart.
I wish I had been smart.
I was not.

[ChurchBuz]

Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus

That's smart.
I wish I had been smart.
I was not.

I am going to be that smart tomorrow.

The first 2 1/2 pieces came out comparatively easy.

The 2nd half if this 3rd is being a pain.

[HamSkoolie]

Air compressor with a long handled chisel for taking up tiles and such.


https://www.harborfreight.com/42-in-...per-62687.html


$124.99 but it will knock through that mess. The other methods mentioned above will do it as well. It's a trade off of money and hard work.... where's the balancing point between your wallet hurting and your back hurting?

[EastCoastCB]

Keep fighting the good fight!

[magnakansas]

if you put a carbide tipped blade on that saw it will cut through any nails, bolts, screws you did not see....

ear protection will help you in the long run.

william

[syntaxterror]

I hope you are using a mask. When I did my bus the plywood was all black like that and it really affected my lungs for a ling time.

[BarnYardCamp]

When I did mine, I used Musigenesis suggestion setting the skill saw to about 5/8"..my floor was 1/2" plywood under the heavy rubber mat stuff..I then cut the plywood in manageable sizes (largest was about 2' x 4')and pried them up. Used a claw hammer to pull the nails that pulled through the wood. Most of the nails that were left behind came out pretty easy. On the few that fought, I placed a small piece of wood under the hammer pivot point to protect the metal floor.

Cutting it up in smaller sizes makes getting rid of it easier as well. Put a little out with your trash each week until its gone. Or if your employer will let you, toss it into the dumpster.

[BarnYardCamp]

The exposed metal floor looks pretty good. Around the wheel wells was where mine needed repairs.

[ChurchBuz]

Well…. It is a toss up for me.

I know that the circular saw way is probably better, and it may be safer too, maybe. But it is a lot more work, and takes way longer.

When those sheets come up whole (if they do) that bottle jack removes those nails or pulls them through like a boss, in one piece and comparatively quickly. With one naily board instead of a bunch to step on.

When I get to my next full sheet, I’m going back to that method to see if it is as good as I remember.

I will post my findings.

[ChurchBuz]

Yeah. So far there is no rust through. I will probably use a galvanizing primer, otherwise I’m not sure that paint will stick well.

Probably use foil tape over all the millions of holes.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by ChurchBuz

Yeah. So far there is no rust through. I will probably use a galvanizing primer, otherwise I’m not sure that paint will stick well.

Probably use foil tape over all the millions of holes.

Paint will stick if you prep the floor with ospho.

[ChurchBuz]

And!!!! If you are going to use a circular saw, make super sure that your depth fence stays adjusted!

I cut the heck out of my otherwise very good floor when my depth adjustment went out. So be super careful!