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Old 06-26-2021, 10:50 PM   #1
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Location: Edmonds, WA
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Year: 2006
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need help removing black goo (window seal)

We discovered the immensely sticky black goo window seals. What is the best way to remove/clean this stuff up?

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Old 06-26-2021, 11:57 PM   #2
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Lacquer thinner should work
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Old 06-27-2021, 12:15 AM   #3
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It sticks to itself really well. I use a chunk to remove the smaller pieces. Having a scrap stick handy to coil the "strings", when you pull the window, to help minimize the spread.
Mineral spirits does thin it enough to blacken a rag, but wont help the new butyl to stick to either frame.

Do you have a void in the steel frame above the window?
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Old 06-27-2021, 03:19 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by DeMac View Post
It sticks to itself really well. I use a chunk to remove the smaller pieces. Having a scrap stick handy to coil the "strings", when you pull the window, to help minimize the spread.
Mineral spirits does thin it enough to blacken a rag, but wont help the new butyl to stick to either frame.

Do you have a void in the steel frame above the window?
Yes, there is a void.
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Old 06-27-2021, 04:08 PM   #5
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Closed Cell Backer Rod

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Originally Posted by MeasureThrice View Post
Yes, there is a void.
Depending on your intended needs, you may consider filling the gap with 1-1/2" closed cell backer rod. About .50c /ft.

Most of our windows were not sealed well on top where the AL window frame meets the FE bus rail. The side rails are not flush with the drip edge. No water intrudes, just air, which travels over the top of the AL frame and into the interior. A nasty source of convection when calculating the structure's envelope leaks.





The CCBR does not absorb water. Optionally, you can add calk to the exterior. Rope calk or calk cord are easy to pressed into the gap or use Loctite PL S40.
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Old 08-04-2021, 10:55 AM   #6
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I wanted to circle back to share how I handled this. I collected all the solvents I had on hand: isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), denatured alcohol, paint thinner, and mineral spirits.

I tried isopropyl alcohol first (thinking it probably wouldn't help much) but it worked wonders! The alcohol helped the butyl stick to itself and not my nitrile gloves or the metal frame. I had to reapply generously (I used a spray bottle), but it was a relief to use such an inexpensive and harmless solvent. I also sprayed my gloves frenquently and generously as well.

When I went to take out the other windows and continue this process, I used DeMac's idea of a using a scrap stick to coil the "strings" which worked well too.

After 90-95% of the butyl was removed, I used paint thinner on a shop towel to remove the tiny bits of leftover butyl residue on the metal frame. This worked well, but I decided to just leave the rest of the butyl bits since I will be covering all of that up with window deletes.

Getting butyl "strings" off skin with something like Fast Orange was tough, but spraying down my arms in iso alcohol first did the trick!

Thanks to all that offered their advice.

I hope this helps someone else in the future!
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