Quote:
Originally Posted by turf
ok, i did it again.
charge until the charger turned off and a day later i have killed the battery.
what position should the rear engine switch be in? i feel like i've had it "ON" and i'm draining the battery, ima try off and charge that battery again.
here are pictures and video to my google photos -
the clicking in the video is the fly wheel trying to rotate - like a 1/4 inch or so. it stops just as i got the camera on the barely moving gear.
the back switch was on, i turned the key in the ignition on and tried to start it, turned it off again. the volts were only 9v on the dash meter. it started making noise and i whipped out the camera.
the timer seems to turn everything on and off?
https://photos.app.goo.gl/HuVNfPG7rz5vTXRT6
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I don't know what kind of battery charger you have, or what you mean by "killed" the battery. A smart charger will have at least 4 stages of charging (there are more stages, but each manufacturer chooses which they want to use). The most important ones are having the bulk charge and the float charge.
The most important part of the battery charger is that it actually senses that the bulk charge has finished and it goes into float mode. If not, then it can create issues.
Per the engine switch, mine is set to RUN (on) and should
not be draining the battery. A switch is just that, on or off. It either allows current to flow or not. I have a cab ignition, a RE compartment ignition and a Run/Stop kill switch that all interact together. I can start my bus from the cab or RE compartment, and if an emergency while working on the engine, I can use the kill switch. The reason for battery drain is generally there is a load sucking that current, not a switch issue. Unless, your switch is bad, which your cab switch might be.
I wouldn't worry about the cab battery meter or the timer at the moment. I'd again make sure you have electricity making if from the battery to where it needs to go. Do all the checks I suggested previously.