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Old 04-20-2021, 12:09 AM   #1
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,359
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
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new bus what dis?

hey folks,

i bought a bus that i'm going to flip. a cummins 8.3 RE bluebird with under storage.

this bus has new to me stuff so i need a bit of help, please.

i've killed the battery twice so something is wrong.

if i try to start the bus when the battery is weak, the rear makes a buzz noise that seems to be on a timer and the bus tries to start. i can pull the key out and the bus is trying to turn over. the buzzing is coming from somthing marked timer delay.

its a 96 bluebird TCRE. 8.3

what is causing the starter to function on its own without the key?

i'm betting that is the source of my battery drain too. the weather has been crappy and havent had the time to go out and trouble shoot.

thanks
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Dave

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Old 04-20-2021, 10:57 AM   #2
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Join Date: Oct 2017
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Year: 1999
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Engine: 5.9L 24V-L6 Cummins ISB
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I would think the key switch itself is bad. At least that is what I would check first.


Good luck and Aloha!
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Old 04-20-2021, 09:36 PM   #3
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
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Year: 2000
Coachwork: IC / Amtran
Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
Engine: IC T444E / Allison MT643
Rated Cap: 72 Kids / 48 Adults
First things first, charge your batteries and keep them properly charged using a smart charger. Low batteries can cause all sorts of headaches.

I agree with Gnome that I'd start with the ignition switch.

When you say you take the key out and it continues to try and start, EXACTLY, what does it do.

Does the starter engage/disengage/engage or does it simply keep cranking the engine?

How do you get it to stop doing whatever it's doing?

Per the Timer Delay, pictures are helpful.
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Old 04-21-2021, 10:39 AM   #4
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ok, i did it again.

charge until the charger turned off and a day later i have killed the battery.

what position should the rear engine switch be in? i feel like i've had it "ON" and i'm draining the battery, ima try off and charge that battery again.

here are pictures and video to my google photos -
the clicking in the video is the fly wheel trying to rotate - like a 1/4 inch or so. it stops just as i got the camera on the barely moving gear.

the back switch was on, i turned the key in the ignition on and tried to start it, turned it off again. the volts were only 9v on the dash meter. it started making noise and i whipped out the camera.

the timer seems to turn everything on and off?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HuVNfPG7rz5vTXRT6
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Old 04-21-2021, 01:03 PM   #5
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Auburn, WA
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Year: 2000
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Chassis: 3000 / 33' Flat Nose
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turf View Post
ok, i did it again.

charge until the charger turned off and a day later i have killed the battery.

what position should the rear engine switch be in? i feel like i've had it "ON" and i'm draining the battery, ima try off and charge that battery again.

here are pictures and video to my google photos -
the clicking in the video is the fly wheel trying to rotate - like a 1/4 inch or so. it stops just as i got the camera on the barely moving gear.

the back switch was on, i turned the key in the ignition on and tried to start it, turned it off again. the volts were only 9v on the dash meter. it started making noise and i whipped out the camera.

the timer seems to turn everything on and off?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/HuVNfPG7rz5vTXRT6
I don't know what kind of battery charger you have, or what you mean by "killed" the battery. A smart charger will have at least 4 stages of charging (there are more stages, but each manufacturer chooses which they want to use). The most important ones are having the bulk charge and the float charge.

The most important part of the battery charger is that it actually senses that the bulk charge has finished and it goes into float mode. If not, then it can create issues.

Per the engine switch, mine is set to RUN (on) and should not be draining the battery. A switch is just that, on or off. It either allows current to flow or not. I have a cab ignition, a RE compartment ignition and a Run/Stop kill switch that all interact together. I can start my bus from the cab or RE compartment, and if an emergency while working on the engine, I can use the kill switch. The reason for battery drain is generally there is a load sucking that current, not a switch issue. Unless, your switch is bad, which your cab switch might be.

I wouldn't worry about the cab battery meter or the timer at the moment. I'd again make sure you have electricity making if from the battery to where it needs to go. Do all the checks I suggested previously.
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Old 04-21-2021, 01:30 PM   #6
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its a regular battery charger - 25a everstart from wally.

when it charges continuously for 24hrs, it'll shut down for safety. i set it on there Sunday,. it probably shut down monday, and by wednesday the battery is dead. there is a load on. im not sure where.

when the back engine run switch is on - the oil pressure gauge works on the panel there. now that i have it off, the gauge is off. that is likely my battery drain, or at least one of them.

i'll try and start it again this afternoon after it charges a bit.

thanks
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Old 04-22-2021, 03:30 PM   #7
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Colorado
Posts: 2,359
Year: 1993
Coachwork: bluebird
Engine: 5.9 Cummins, Allison AT1545
Rated Cap: 2
i found the gremlin!

like was suggested - it was the starter switch.

the rear starter switch - its crusty, doesn't disengage.

it was draining my battery when sitting and keeping the starter engaged when running.

the humming noise was not the timer coil ..... the starter is directly behind that wiring. i thought it was the wiring, but it was the starter making noise. the noise was the starter solenoid.

i've got the switch disengaged and all seems to be well again.

thanks for the tips
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