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10-18-2019, 07:58 PM
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#1
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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OK to drive a bus with a section of exhaust pipe missing?
My bus currently looks like this:
Other than the obvious problem of diesel exhaust inside the bus, is there any reason this can't be driven if it's for a short distance (two miles) and I'm willing to die of asphyxiation in the attempt?
The guy doing my work is a worthless piece of **** and I think I need to just go take my bus.
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10-18-2019, 08:40 PM
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#2
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,324
Year: 1971
Coachwork: Wayne
Chassis: International Loadstar 1700
Engine: 345 international V-8
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Is that the exhaust pipe hacked in two?
I would say open all windows and go for it, but be prepared to stop as much as may be needed to get some fresh air. I would also strap up the wheel wells, and secure everything as best as you can.
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10-18-2019, 08:45 PM
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#3
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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If you have pipe all the way to the rear wheels, it won't hurt anything to go that distance. No offense, but you have plenty of ventilation in your bus to worry about fumes. Go for it.
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10-18-2019, 09:06 PM
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#4
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie
Is that the exhaust pipe hacked in two?
I would say open all windows and go for it, but be prepared to stop as much as may be needed to get some fresh air. I would also strap up the wheel wells, and secure everything as best as you can.
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When they removed the floor there, it exposed a stretch of badly rusted-out exhaust pipe, so we added fixing that to the job. The rest of the bus' exhaust pipe was recently replaced by a previous owner, but they were not able to easily access this section so it was left as it is.
The wheel wells probably don't need strapping, since these shmucks have been sitting on them.
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10-18-2019, 09:14 PM
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#5
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Moved to Zealand!
Posts: 1,517
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
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Looks like your exhaust is cut off to where it almost dumps into the bus...
For that short a distance you could take a couple feet of flexible drain pipe (the corrugated black plastic type and bridge the gap where your pipe is cut)
Or with all the windows open just go for it. If it's only a couple miles you probably won't be going fast.
As said -- secure all that loose sh!t so it don't fall through the floor. Make sure nothing falls against the driveshaft!
Sorry your welder didn't work out...
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10-19-2019, 01:55 AM
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#6
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Northern Virginia
Posts: 578
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP ER
Engine: CAT 3126
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Sorry to hear that things have done south. I would do it with all the windows open without much hesitation. Moving down the road you'd have better ventilation than I would in the shop. I wouldn't want the police looking in tho, they might frown upon this. And make sure everything is secure.
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10-19-2019, 02:41 AM
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#7
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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How about a tarp secured to the "good" floor with a few self-tapping screws, run over the wheel wells and secured along the edges? That should keep the fumes down.
Personally. I think I would drive the two miles with the windows open and drive slowly.
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10-19-2019, 10:45 AM
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#8
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Thanks for your kind words, all. Got this bus this morning and it's back in my lot. It was funny, seems the guy was expecting trouble from me so he had a couple of buddies there and also his young daughter. I brought my 6'7" 300 pound brother with me, and the looks on these guys' faces were pretty amusing when they saw him.
Fortunately, no problems at all. He had the battery already hooked up, although I had to tighten up the connections when everything turned off suddenly. He had all of the material I had paid for in the bus already (I was expecting some or all of it to not be there).
Driving it was not really bad at all - it smelled about as dieselly as it did before the floor came out, which makes sense given how bad the state the original section of pipe was in.
One thing that bothered me was that the ABS light stayed on after I started the bus and was on for the whole drive; never seen that before. The brakes felt the same as before, so I wonder if this was a temporary byproduct of the battery hookup problems.
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10-19-2019, 08:32 PM
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#9
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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So, the guy left me with a number of new pieces of exhaust pipe (aluminum? I think he said they were) and it seems like he cut them to go through the fairly complicated bends of this missing section (I really wish I had a pic of the original pipe there but I neglected to take one since this guy was going to fix it). I guess he just didn't want to go get the clamps to complete the repair.
I think I could probably do this myself, but is there some reason I couldn't just use a long piece of flex pipe like this: https://www.autozone.com/emission-co...air/260516_0_0 to make the repair?
Also, is there some kind of sealant goo that you generally put underneath the clamp? Or is it purely a pressure fitting? I've never done anything with a vehicle's exhaust except for one sad attempt in college to fix my VW with hose clamps.
Is this important enough that I should drive to a proper shop to get it fixed?
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10-19-2019, 08:53 PM
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#10
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Moved to Zealand!
Posts: 1,517
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
So, the guy left me with a number of new pieces of exhaust pipe (aluminum? I think he said they were) A magnet will answer this, Al will be easy to scratch, while SS (stainless steel) will be much harder to scratch. The magnet will stick to mild steel. and it seems like he cut them to go through the fairly complicated bends of this missing section (I really wish I had a pic of the original pipe there but I neglected to take one since this guy was going to fix it). I guess he just didn't want to go get the clamps to complete the repair.
I think I could probably do this myself, but is there some reason I couldn't just use a long piece of flex pipe like this: https://www.autozone.com/emission-co...air/260516_0_0 to make the repair?
flex pipe will work. It's not as long-term durable as solid pipe...
Also, is there some kind of sealant goo that you generally put underneath the clamp? Or is it purely a pressure fitting? I've never done anything with a vehicle's exhaust except for one sad attempt in college to fix my VW with hose clamps.
There is no legitimate exhaust goo or mufler bandage/cement, period. It's all snake oil. Weld it, or use proper band clamps which apply enough pressure to seal the exhaust.
Is this important enough that I should drive to a proper shop to get it fixed?
How did you enjoy the smell of diesel exhaust on the short drive? Nothing I want in my bedsheets...
You have good pix -- take them to a muffler shop and see what they'd charge to bend up a proper piece of pipe and weld in the repair.My guess is $100 to $150 but maybe I'm high. I think it's worth it to fix it right and certainly cheaper now while it's exposed -- one and done.
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Answers above in bold
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10-19-2019, 09:02 PM
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#11
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by banman
There is no legitimate exhaust goo or mufler bandage/cement, period. It's all snake oil. Weld it, or use proper band clamps which apply enough pressure to seal the exhaust.
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Hmm, I need to look at my exhaust more closely tomorrow. The parts still there adjacent to this cutout have some sort of bandage crap like what you're talking about. The guy said it was fine to leave it, but I think he was just trying to make less work for himself.
I kind of want to try fixing this myself (with band clamps and the pieces he left me) but if the job is only $100 to $150 or there-ish I think I'll go that route.
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10-19-2019, 09:02 PM
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#12
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: south east BC, close to the Canadian/US border
Posts: 2,265
Year: 1975
Coachwork: Chevy
Chassis: 8 window
Engine: 454 LS7
Rated Cap: 24,500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
So, the guy left me with a number of new pieces of exhaust pipe (aluminum? I think he said they were) and it seems like he cut them to go through the fairly complicated bends of this missing section (I really wish I had a pic of the original pipe there but I neglected to take one since this guy was going to fix it). I guess he just didn't want to go get the clamps to complete the repair.
I think I could probably do this myself, but is there some reason I couldn't just use a long piece of flex pipe like this: https://www.autozone.com/emission-co...air/260516_0_0 to make the repair?
Also, is there some kind of sealant goo that you generally put underneath the clamp? Or is it purely a pressure fitting? I've never done anything with a vehicle's exhaust except for one sad attempt in college to fix my VW with hose clamps.
Is this important enough that I should drive to a proper shop to get it fixed?
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a properly repaired exhaust is very important - doesn't take a lot of carbon monoxide to make a person very sick - it can be done by yourself if you have the tools and expertise - it can be tricky with the turns and twists of exhaust pipes - BTW, I've never heard of aluminum exhaust pipes - pros use special steel or stainless steel, custom bent in tube benders for each job - fitting custom exhaust isn't easy - flex pipe is a temporary repair at best - it doesn't last long
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10-19-2019, 09:09 PM
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#13
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleddgracer
a properly repaired exhaust is very important - doesn't take a lot of carbon monoxide to make a person very sick - it can be done by yourself if you have the tools and expertise - it can be tricky with the turns and twists of exhaust pipes - BTW, I've never heard of aluminum exhaust pipes - pros use special steel or stainless steel, custom bent in tube benders for each job - fitting custom exhaust isn't easy - flex pipe is a temporary repair at best - it doesn't last long
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I think it was good that I didn't wait for this guy to do the job, not even considering the money it would have cost me.
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10-19-2019, 09:36 PM
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#14
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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He probably meant aluminized steel, common exhaust tubing.
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10-19-2019, 09:50 PM
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#15
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2015
Posts: 3,856
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas Built Bus
Chassis: Freightliner FS65
Engine: Caterpillar 3126E Diesel
Rated Cap: 71 Passenger- 30,000 lbs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I think it was good that I didn't wait for this guy to do the job, not even considering the money it would have cost me.
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Go for the repair yourself. Use the band clamps, not U-bolts.
The parts he left you with ... are they flared on one end? If so, it will be as simple as putting it all together and clamping it.
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10-20-2019, 01:07 PM
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#16
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Native
Go for the repair yourself. Use the band clamps, not U-bolts.
The parts he left you with ... are they flared on one end? If so, it will be as simple as putting it all together and clamping it.
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This is the stuff he left me with: https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-.../P207330/18267 . I assume this is aluminized steel as marc mentioned. I'm glad I stopped this dude since he was planning on welding all these pieces together (my biggest fear was that I would end up with something like a $1000 bill for just this exhaust repair, with it needing to be redone anyway).
No flaring on either end. I'll see if I can find one of the band clamps for these and try out a trial fitting. Unfortunately, after looking it over today, I really need to replace the exhaust all the way from this area forward to the muffler (it's not perforated anywhere but has a lot of rusty scale on the outside), so I think for now I'm just going to put in a 4' piece of flex pipe so I can drive around for a while.
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10-20-2019, 01:25 PM
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#17
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
This is the stuff he left me with: https://shop.donaldson.com/store/en-.../P207330/18267 . I assume this is aluminized steel as marc mentioned. I'm glad I stopped this dude since he was planning on welding all these pieces together (my biggest fear was that I would end up with something like a $1000 bill for just this exhaust repair, with it needing to be redone anyway).
No flaring on either end. I'll see if I can find one of the band clamps for these and try out a trial fitting. Unfortunately, after looking it over today, I really need to replace the exhaust all the way from this area forward to the muffler (it's not perforated anywhere but has a lot of rusty scale on the outside), so I think for now I'm just going to put in a 4' piece of flex pipe so I can drive around for a while.
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For our stuff, band clamps are the right piece as they are cheap and can be had for butt connection or overlap for less than $10.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Stainless...4AAOSwOEVdgJ0S
https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Stainless...EAAOSwTt1c1M~D
My system was 4" until it came out of the muffler where it reduced to 3", so needed both clamps.
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10-20-2019, 07:14 PM
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#18
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 6,995
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
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Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc
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Thanks for the links. Is the stuff I have kind of overkill for my bus? It definitely seems beefier than what is already there, and I think it would be pretty expensive just for the materials to use this all the way forward to the muffler (which I think I'll have to do eventually).
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10-20-2019, 07:37 PM
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#19
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 10,482
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
Thanks for the links. Is the stuff I have kind of overkill for my bus? It definitely seems beefier than what is already there, and I think it would be pretty expensive just for the materials to use this all the way forward to the muffler (which I think I'll have to do eventually).
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So far all I've seen of what you have is a 4" elbow and a section of 3" flex pipe. You would still need clamps like I posted. None of that stuff looks "Beefy", standard exhaust parts. Does any of your system use 3" pipe?
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10-20-2019, 08:29 PM
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#20
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis
I'm glad I stopped this dude since he was planning on welding all these pieces together [...].
No flaring on either end. I'll see if I can find one of the band clamps for these and try out a trial fitting. Unfortunately, after looking it over today, I really need to replace the exhaust all the way from this area forward to the muffler (it's not perforated anywhere but has a lot of rusty scale on the outside), so I think for now I'm just going to put in a 4' piece of flex pipe so I can drive around for a while.
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I don't see anything wrong with welding sections of pre-made exhaust tubing. It takes a careful hand to butt weld exhaust tube without burning holes through and it can be challenging to get the top side welded, but if one has the patience and skill it's a reasonable thing to do. I actually prefer mine to be welded rather than clamped because I can visually check for leaks and I know it won't work loose.
Rusty scale on the outside of an exhaust system is par for the course since few systems are built with stainless. Rust begins pretty fast where the hangers are welded or clamped on; it also begins at the joints. Clamped joints and hangers might start rusting later but eventually dirt gets in between the clamp and the tube. First it abrades the aluminized coating away, then the water it holds accelerates the rusting.
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