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Old 10-21-2021, 01:01 PM   #1
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Question Open vs closed rivets

Hey everyone!
It's been a slog but I have raised and skinned my Bluebird roof 27."
I have everything nicely tack welded in place and now need to drill and re-rivet the top and rub rails.

My question does it matter if I use open or closed back rivets? Closed-end rivets are supposed to be "more" watertight. Clearly, I don't want leaks but I was intending to spray foam a couple of inches everywhere there will be rivets and I know that will seal out water also.

Am I missing anything? Good idea? Bad idea?

Cheers!

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Old 10-21-2021, 02:01 PM   #2
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Personally, I use closed end rivets (which have the the back closed) or solid bucked rivets on all exterior joints, whenever possible. In one of our videos on removing rivets, I show the difference between standard and closed end rivets...if that helps.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCNS...p8u_syyeQ67d1w

For rub rails and skin rivets, we use 1/4-inch stainless closed end rivets.
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Old 10-21-2021, 02:02 PM   #3
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My question does it matter if I use open or closed back rivets? Closed-end rivets are supposed to be "more" watertight.

Similar to: A casserole dish is "more" watertight than a colander.

Closed end blind rivets are a type of tubular rivet with a mandrel through the center. To install a closed end rivet, the entire fastener is inserted through drilled holes in the parts being joined, and a special tool is used to draw the mandrel into the rivet. The blind end of the rivet expands to secure the workpieces, and the mandrel snaps off. Unlike open end blind rivets, closed end blind rivets provide 100% mandrel retention. The head of the mandrel stays inside the set rivet, and won’t find its way into your assembly where it could cause electrical shorts or other problems. Closed end rivets block the passage of fluids and gases to create a tight, secure seal.

Open end blind rivets do not seal out gases or liquids.



If replacing a factory rivet through the original holes, I'd use 1/4" diameter and ream the holes, if necessary.
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Old 10-21-2021, 02:12 PM   #4
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I really appreciate all the info! THANK YOU!!

Does anyone have good sources for rivets you used?
I have been all over the internet and in-person to Tacoma screw etc...
I would love it if you had a proven source or two with specific models you have used
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Old 10-21-2021, 02:23 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chromaglow View Post
I really appreciate all the info! THANK YOU!!

Does anyone have good sources for rivets you used?
I have been all over the internet and in-person to Tacoma screw etc...
I would love it if you had a proven source or two with specific models you have used
Here's an invoice from a recent order we placed. It's got the item numbers and prices. These are from Jay-Cee Rivets... rivetsinstock.com. But we've also ordered from Byler Rivet and a few other sources.

Click image for larger version

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Old 10-21-2021, 02:40 PM   #6
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Every rivet I removed got replaced with a like sized screw.
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Old 10-21-2021, 03:39 PM   #7
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Every rivet I removed got replaced with a like sized screw.
This is actually on my list of follow-up questions, is there any reason to not use screws? I was going to use rivets again because rivets came out. But I was wondering for ease if I could just use big screws??
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Old 10-21-2021, 05:03 PM   #8
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This is actually on my list of follow-up questions, is there any reason to not use screws? I was going to use rivets again because rivets came out. But I was wondering for ease if I could just use big screws??
#10 panhead screw, use a #2 square drive bit.
Once painted you won't know they aren't factory.

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