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Old 03-11-2010, 06:34 PM   #1
Josef's Avatar
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Missouri, Festus
Posts: 39
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 65
Options / Ideas for removing rear heater.

Hi everyone, looking for some advice please …

I hope my reference sketch makes sense.

My 97 Thomas has rear heat which I am removing and no longer want. Question is. I would like to plug the T valves like in option B. That would still complete the circuit/flow, but I wonder if that would force or put to much pressure in the driver heater.

If I looped a patch hose back around in a U shape like in option A, I wonder if that bypass would act as path of least resistance, and less/not-enough fluid would pass through the actual driver radiator. It kind of seems like it would be that way in the original setup anyhow…

So the main question is any reason to NOT just plug ends like in Option B?

Secondly since that’s what I am leaning toward doing ….. Any ideas on how to plug those ends. I don’t want to sweat copper caps on them. The inner diameter of the hose is 1-inch.

There is a rubber cap at ... ge372.html I am thinking of using something like this (it’s at the bottom of the page) You think this would be durable enough? Or can you recommend something else?

9$ a pop seems high, called a few parts stores and seems they only have up to 3/4” caps.

Thank you all!
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Old 02-25-2018, 07:45 AM   #2
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Join Date: Jan 2018
Posts: 5
I would think you would want to loop it, let the coolant have the path of least resistance if necessary instead of being forced through the heater unit. I am definitely going to loop in my bus.
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:37 AM   #3
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Willamina, Oregon
Posts: 6,409
Coachwork: 97 Bluebird TC1000 5.9
This has been a topic that we've been through a few times here. It is necessary to make a loop for the coolant to flow as designed. These lines have, been capped off, as you mentioned with bad results. It's possible to create the loop using the rubber hose but it's also pretty easy to design a "U" shaped pipe to loop the coolant back without the possibility of kinking the hose. Don't use a smaller diameter pipe for the "U".

Most of us have removed our rear heaters. Some people relocate the heater to the passenger area for additional heat while driving, but obviously those people live in northern climates.
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Old 02-26-2018, 03:24 PM   #4
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: California
Posts: 16
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Girardin
Chassis: Ford E350
Engine: 7.3 Powerstroke
i took my heater out only a couple weeks ago. i had shut offs underneath the floor, so i just cut my lines and shut them off. now the dash heater works fine, but it seems like it has to run longer to get warm, because hot coolant is just sitting down there 10 feet from my motor now. i will shorten my rubber lines up to the metal line at the engine and make a loop. it will be more efficient i think, plus i now can get rid of extra lines underneath.
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