Over the driver storage problem

[Corbi]

I am looking for feedback about making a shelf or cabinet in this space above the driver's seat. I removed the circuit board from the access door, much of the wiring connecting the flasher, the second door and the facing of this panel. It looks like an el shaped bar could anchor the existing metal along the length. I first thought that I could run the remaining wires below the metal bottom piece, but that creates an uneven surface to use for a base to a cabinet.

[Corbi]

This is my initial framework using plywood and 2 . This area is at quite a slant. So the base has to be supported to make a level shelf. The way the wiring passes through this part makes for an awkward transition.

[Rwnielsen]

I think it's a great idea and gives me a few as well. There's a whole lot of wasted space above your head. I'd make a cardboard mockup and then figure out the structural requirements.

[DeMac]

Originally Posted by Corbi

This is my initial framework using plywood and 2 . This area is at quite a slant. So the base has to be supported to make a level shelf. The way the wiring passes through this part makes for an awkward transition.

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A product for builders to consider, when supporting shelves or hanging objects from the ribs.

'Sammys'
aka: Threaded Rod Hangers/ Anchors

(swivel, self-tapping pictured)

I use these at work & home. My handywork, pictured below.


Coop Nesting Boxes

(1/4" rod wood hangers)


(available in a variety of thred sizes for varying framing material)

Use 3/8" or larger for excess weight

I haven't had a need for them on our conversion (yet). Maybe the photos above, & those on google, will provide you some ideas on how to support a load from overhead, using all-thread or threaded hardware fittings.

Okay, one more...

[Rwnielsen]

Originally Posted by DeMac

‐----------------
A product for builders to consider, when supporting shelves or hanging objects from the ribs.

'Sammys'
aka: Threaded Rod Hangers/ Anchors

(swivel, self-tapping pictured)

I use these at work & home. My handywork, pictured below.


Coop Nesting Boxes

(1/4" rod wood hangers)


(available in a variety of thred sizes for varying framing material)

Use 3/8" or larger for excess weight

I haven't had a need for them on our conversion (yet). Maybe the photos above, & those on google, will provide you some ideas on how to support a load from overhead, using all-thread or threaded hardware fittings.

Okay, one more...

I've used them before, quite a bit really. I never knew their name, Thanks

Sammys


I'm thinking a star washer under them to help with vibration while rumbling down the road.

[mmoore6856]

we put a removable closet rod up over the drivers seat to use for jackets,raincoats and umbrellas that we use often when parked. when we travel we take it down

[Rwnielsen]

Originally Posted by mmoore6856

we put a removable closet rod up over the drivers seat to use for jackets,raincoats and umbrellas that we use often when parked. when we travel we take it down

That's a decent idea too. How's your cat on the road? Sit on the dash, hide in the back?...

[mmoore6856]

Sleeps in the bed. is not scared just don't seem to mind the house is rolling (sometimes at 75 mph) don't even watch out a window. Just sleeps

[Rucker]

Good start. Is the open face we see in the picture a cutout? How were you thinking of finishing the space?

[Corbi]

I worked on the shelf a bit more: made a more accurate angle to the right support block, then glued and screwed them to the plywood. I then realized that there was an extra strip of angle metal used to attach the metal facing. I unscrewed it and relocated to the top and side gaging how this grade if metal could serve to hold the cabinet frame on. It could work. Cutting smaller pieces of it and screwing them at the corners and along each edge. The left side is still open. There isn't an attachment point that I can see. The same is true for the bottom edge. The plywood could be a point of contact. Some kind of hardware?

I'm considering a single sheet of plywood to create the frame, covering the open area below and making the opening for the cabinet door. I am thinking that a piece of utility plywood could line the inside following the bend of the ceiling. Any tips on making a cabinet door? I purchased a router that could come in handy. Sorry, no table saw.

[joeblack5]

Hi corbie, we made a bed above the driver, it kind of folds out.

See post 51/52/53 of "elfbus e350" thread, kid has grown bigger so now our younger one sleeps there.. the "door", cover swings out and is supported by chains.

With the door closed it keeps the bedding out of sight.

There should be very little critical wiring above the driver door. Most comes up from the bottom behind the driver side door post.

..

You made great progress , good luck.

Johan

[Corbi]

My latest progress as been to cut up the L component of the existing structure and screw them into place around the space above the driver.

These will allow me to attach a plywood cabinet face-frame to them.

I don’t see a way to make attachment points along the bottom side, but I’m hoping that the existing points are strong enough to secure the frame.

I also had to take apart the wall behind the seat to reroute wiring from the space to my switch panel. A new hole was drilled onto to the existing metal compartment.

[Corbi]

Originally Posted by joeblack5

Hi corbie, we made a bed above the driver, it kind of folds out.

See post 51/52/53 of "elfbus e350" thread, kid has grown bigger so now our younger one sleeps there.. the "door", cover swings out and is supported by chains.

With the door closed it keeps the bedding out of sight.

There should be very little critical wiring above the driver door. Most comes up from the bottom behind the driver side door post.

..

You made great progress , good luck.

Johan

Thank you for you well wishes Johan. I didn't realize how much you posted on the Elf Bus. It has taken a while for me to remove and reroute some of the wiring and the circuit board from that area. Hopefully I'll have some new usefull storage there and move on to the next area. I notice that Elf is also a M. Corbeil body like mine.

[Corbi]

Any ideas for types of fasteners? I was thinking small carriage bolts front to back. There is room to drill from the inside, the metal tab into the plywood. Do fasteners secure plywood in this way?

[Rucker]

A couple of questions:
-are you just putting a face frame on at this point, and looking for a way to fasten it to the tabs you've installed?
-Is the plywood deck going to be the base of the storage space?

What do you plan on storing in this space?

[Corbi]

Originally Posted by Rucker

A couple of questions:
-are you just putting a face frame on at this point, and looking for a way to fasten it to the tabs you've installed?
-Is the plywood deck going to be the base of the storage space?

What do you plan on storing in this space?

Yes, I intend to use a plywood face frame that extends all the way down to the lower edge. The existing deck will stay, but it it needs a covering of sorts. I could use the area for pantry storage, books and files some of the lighter emergency equipment. I'm considering two cabinet doors. Maybe this idea of metal tabs needs to be reconsidered.

[Corbi]

I made a mock up of the face frame in cardboard. It is helpful to notice how the bottom piece connects to the side and center stiles.

In a way, this section hangs from these three stiles. Also the shelf needs to be 3/4 in to allow for securing the face frame and this bottom piece. The shelf also defines the alignment of the frame to the rest of the bus structure.

[Rucker]

Mockups help explain, thanks for the pics! Looks like you are right on track.

You might consider making the face frame removeable to access the wiring below the shelf?

And as long as it's secure (doesn't rattle) the fasteners don't need to be humongous. I would probably use self-tapping screws that are slightly countersunk in the face frame, and put some wood plugs in with a dot of hot glue so they are removable.