Journey with Confidence RV GPS App RV Trip Planner RV LIFE Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Take a Speed Test Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 06-29-2015, 02:40 PM   #1
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Painting a bus - what kind of paint and how to sand effectively?

I've seen a lot of different opinions on painting buses here, so I wanted to lay out a scenario and see what you all recommend:

Let's say I'm painting a 40 ft. Bluebird FE bus. Once I've removed all the reflective adhesive, reflectors, etc., I need to sand the bus, correct?

I've heard that 320 grit sandpaper is best, but should I use an orbital or belt sander to do the "bulk" areas? Or just sand by hand only?

I would be using Rust-Oleum or similar oil-based enamel paint, is that a good choice? I read others recommending acrylic enamels, is that a better choice or does it really matter?

I don't plan on priming, but once I get everything lightly sanded and cleaned with mineral spirits, I'm going to paint the roof white, then paint the body gray. It looks like a sprayer is the best option (once the paint is appropriately thinned). Is one coat realistic or should I plan on multiple coats?

Should I spray the whole body (except the roof) gray, then paint over the gray point with accent colors (for example, black bumpers, red trim might be likely) using hand rollers/brushes? I assume I would need to wait for the gray coat to dry before painting the detail areas (assuming I want to mask those areas before painting and not try to freehand).

I'll be happy to clarify any of this, I'd just like to get some more direct advice; I don't want to have to do this twice! Thanks.

-Dan

dbsoundman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 02:55 PM   #2
Bus Crazy
 
Scooternj's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 1,134
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
I've just been using ACE Hardware rattle cans right over the yellow, with no prep work other than reflective tape and letter removal and washing down.
__________________
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

Captain Obvious on deviantArt
Scooternj is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 03:21 PM   #3
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooternj View Post
I've just been using ACE Hardware rattle cans right over the yellow, with no prep work other than reflective tape and letter removal and washing down.
Wouldn't that take a TON of rattle cans? I feel like a paint sprayer would be more efficient but I'm interested to hear what you think.
dbsoundman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 05:09 PM   #4
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
If you have access to a compressor, a little HVLP sprayer can be found cheaply and used with ease. With that you can get Rustoleum by the gallon or quart as needed which can yield a really good looking and pretty durable paint job. Given the price of rattle cans, I'd keep them back for touch up. There are a LOT of square feet on the average bus...more than I would want get after with cans. But one of the big advantages of going with Rustoleum is that you can find touch up paint just about anywhere...rattle can or otherwise.

Automotive paints are far superior if you want a high fashion finish, but personally, I don't plan on spending the kind of dough those paint jobs cost.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 05:18 PM   #5
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Toledo OH
Posts: 781
Year: 2006
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP-EF
Engine: Cat C7 + Allison 3000PTS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
If you have access to a compressor, a little HVLP sprayer can be found cheaply and used with ease. With that you can get Rustoleum by the gallon or quart as needed which can yield a really good looking and pretty durable paint job. Given the price of rattle cans, I'd keep them back for touch up. There are a LOT of square feet on the average bus...more than I would want get after with cans. But one of the big advantages of going with Rustoleum is that you can find touch up paint just about anywhere...rattle can or otherwise.

Automotive paints are far superior if you want a high fashion finish, but personally, I don't plan on spending the kind of dough those paint jobs cost.
Thanks for the advice! I definitely thought about automotive paint, but considering the fact that most skoolies and such I've seen (or "party buses") have some sort of uneven-looking flat paint on them, I think Rust-Oleum should look pretty sharp.

-Dan
dbsoundman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 06:16 PM   #6
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Get a compressor and a paint gun.
Even a cheapo paint gun can do a pretty nice job compared to rattle cans.
I was using cans and switched halfway through the project.

If done right, Rustoleum can look REALLY good. I like that its cheap and easily available.

Paint Your Car With Rustoleum
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 08:10 PM   #7
Bus Geek
 
ol trunt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: So Cal
Posts: 3,227
Year: 1935
Coachwork: Superior
Chassis: Chevy
Engine: 317 ci/tid / Isuzu
Watch out for cleaning up with mineral spirits. Mineral spirits leave a slight oil film behind which will cause "fish eyes" in almost every top coat finish. If you use mineral spirits be sure to wash off the film with a strong kitchen dish detergent and then rinse very well with water. Jack
ol trunt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 08:53 PM   #8
Bus Crazy
 
milkmania's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
whole lotta painting here.....

3 pages worth
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/members/157-albums96.html
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
milkmania is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 10:04 PM   #9
Bus Crazy
 
opus's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Montana
Posts: 1,626
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: All-American R/E
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
If you use Ace or Rustoleum, be prepared for it to go flat after a couple years. That is unless you clear coat, etc. If I had it to do over again, I would have left mine yellow or just hit it with some rattle cans and called it good.
I didnt do a lot of prep work so I am not unhappy. Its lasted 5 yrs I think. Now, I'd like to blow it all off but I dont think I can do that without a lot of work....yet.
opus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 10:41 PM   #10
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 23
We can't legally leave it yellow here in NY. I'm planning on using Rust-oleum over primer. Not sure if I'll clear coat over that or spend a year waxing it.
steveoutdoorrec is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 11:21 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
mjh2901's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Dublin California USA
Posts: 46
Coachwork: Looking for something
Chassis: Big Enough to fit my dog
Check with a good auto store for the cost of auto paint if your going to take the time might as well know what it would have cost, if you are spraying it might be worth it. The other thing is maybe prime with auto primer because its cheap then switch to something for the top coat. No matter what spraying is superior.
__________________
Mike Hathaway
mike@mikehathaway.com
https://www.mikehathaway.com
facebook.com/mikehathaway
mjh2901 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-29-2015, 11:29 PM   #12
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
I've thought about going all out and putting some good expensive paint on mine. But I'd feel more inclined to actually spend many weeks perfecting the body panels and then I'd feel even more inclined to wash and wax the bus on a regular basis.

That said, I'd love to go crazy with some sort of bass boat finish.
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 12:31 AM   #13
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
I used spray can clear coat with great results.

5 years alter the blue Rustoleum on the "Haul All" still looks great.

Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."

Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
nat_ster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 08:09 AM   #14
Bus Geek
 
Tango's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
Remember that you can add "hardener" to any oil based paint including Rustoleum. Makes for a little more gloss and a much more durable finish. Likewise..."Floetrol" will make it go on smoother and help eliminate orange peel.

One more suggestion...if you never done much spray painting...do a little practicing BEFORE you start shooting your bus. Just about anything reasonably smooth will do to get the feel of it. Just do it using the same mix formula you plan on putting on your rig.

Who knows...maybe your wife will love the Fridge matching the bus.
Tango is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 10:39 AM   #15
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Miami
Posts: 172
Year: 1998
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: MVP
Engine: CAT 3116
Rated Cap: 84
I'm in the process of refinishing all my windows (all 28 of them), I pulled them all and then used Rustoleum spray can auto primer followed up with rustoleum spray can semi gloss black. The windows are looking great, BUT using those rattle cans sucks and gets expensive!

For the body, I'm going to use automotive primer and paint. I think it will run less than $450 in materials depending on the paint. I only want to do this once, that's why I'm looking at Auto paint instead of just spray Rustoleum.
Piersg is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-30-2015, 01:12 PM   #16
New Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 1
First off you don't need to prime anything. As long as you lightly sand. Only take off the clear coat. If you go past the clear coat and start taking off paint you will NEED to prime. I personally as an ex autobody technician recommend using 180 grit and scotch Brite. So sand the full thing down but don't just sand one direction constantly switch directions with that being said use an orbital sander. And enamel paint is alright to use.
nickyozzy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:42 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.