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Old 10-16-2021, 09:31 PM   #1
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Peru. IN
Posts: 184
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: NB18FD Oshkosh
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 18,500
Paneling question


I will be starting a shuttle bus conversion soon. I have watched a lot of videos on youtube of people installing paneling and bead board. Everyone uses screws even on thin stock to secure it.

Why screws all the time?

Is there a problems with a brad or staple type air nailers I am not aware of?

I have a Sprinter I did a conversion on. All material is lite and thin. I used a brad nailer for every thing. I have had no issues with brads pulling or panels coming loose after 30K mile.

I am just wondering!!!!!!!

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Old 10-16-2021, 10:13 PM   #2
Bus Geek
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 7,000
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
I've used screws because I've always assumed brads or nails would pull loose from the vibration, but I have no direct experience of that happening. Seems like you're presenting evidence that it's not really a problem.

Although I also think screw heads are more attractive aesthetically.
Rusty 87 build thread
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Old 10-16-2021, 11:22 PM   #3
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Sep 2019
Location: Bly Oregon
Posts: 536
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Cummins 350 big cam
Rated Cap: 86 passengers?
My conversion project is possibly going to the extreme for structural integrity as I have been framing everything with Unistrut and other steel and I will be using self drilling self tapping screws to attach plywood. My experience from doing this on my first Crown was that I didn't get squeaks and rattles. The steel structures are incredibly strong. As for weight, Unistrut weighs 187 lbs per 100 feet. I purchased 30 10 ft lengths of strut for the project, adding in the angle iron and steel straps used in addition and the weight lost from removal of 26 or 28 bus seats at 40 lbs? each make the weight gain pretty small. I use the approach of do it correct the first time, and don't do it over. I can mount anything one would use in an RV and not worry about whether the framing is strong enough to support it. I will be tiling both the kitchen and bath and to assure that little or no oil canning is likely those walls to be tiled are to be as secure as possible. My approach provides multiple means to support plumbing and wiring also. My way is not the only way.

You could also glue everything.
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Old 10-17-2021, 08:51 AM   #4
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: Peru. IN
Posts: 184
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Collins
Chassis: NB18FD Oshkosh
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 18,500
I used very little glue in the sprinter build. Here is a link to that build.

Teardrops n Tiny Travel Trailers • View topic - Next camper #2

I was just wondering if my first build experience would apply in this one seeing all the builds using screws.

Unistrut. Oh hell no.
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