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Old 03-10-2013, 12:48 PM   #1
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Plywood floor

Hubby was wondering if we should glue plywood to floor, then screw? Or just screw it down with no glue?

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Old 03-10-2013, 03:50 PM   #2
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Re: Plywood floor

I would say if for some odd reason your going to take it back up I would screw only but if you want it to bond and NOT EVER come back up... then glue and screw.
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Old 03-10-2013, 07:20 PM   #3
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Re: Plywood floor

Gluing it will make sure it stays put and that there are no squeaks. Glue also does a better job dealing with the flex than something like cheap drywall screws will. I used tek screws with glue on mine, but the screws were really just there to clamp it in place until the glue dried.
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Old 03-10-2013, 08:53 PM   #4
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Re: Plywood floor

Gotcha, thanks!
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Old 03-10-2013, 09:59 PM   #5
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Re: Plywood floor

Mine is floating, not attached. I have one squeak but its not because of that.
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Old 10-04-2013, 01:02 AM   #6
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Re: Plywood floor

Quote:
Originally Posted by the_experience03
Gluing it will make sure it stays put and that there are no squeaks. Glue also does a better job dealing with the flex than something like cheap drywall screws will. I used tek screws with glue on mine, but the screws were really just there to clamp it in place until the glue dried.
Please for your own sake, do not use drywall screws anywhere in a bus. They are made of vary high tensile steel and break realy easy. I can snap them with my bare fingers.

Same go's for most general purpose construction screws including deck screws. If moved sideways, they snap. A nail would bend 16 times before breaking. This is why nails are used in home building, not screws.

Nat
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Old 10-04-2013, 10:06 AM   #7
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Re: Plywood floor

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
...Please for your own sake, do not use drywall screws anywhere in a bus. They are made of vary high tensile steel and break realy easy. I can snap them with my bare fingers.

Same go's for most general purpose construction screws including deck screws. If moved sideways, they snap. A nail would bend 16 times before breaking. This is why nails are used in home building, not screws.

Nat
Nat, I used drywall screws for a lot of the wood stuff I built in my bus, and so far haven't had any problems. I do, however, share your reservations about how brittle they seem to be. In your post you seem to be recommending nails? Wouldn't nails be more likely to loosen up in a mobile application? What type of screws would you recommend, if any?
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Old 10-04-2013, 11:24 AM   #8
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Re: Plywood floor

My entire bus is built with these. Most components contacting steel were also glued with construction adhesive.

Torx Screws

BTW, Nat, you must have been bored last night. Some serious grave digging going on, haha!!
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Old 10-05-2013, 12:09 AM   #9
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Re: Plywood floor

[quote=Diesel Dan]
Quote:
Originally Posted by "nat_ster":fwhi1jj0
...Please for your own sake, do not use drywall screws anywhere in a bus. They are made of vary high tensile steel and break realy easy. I can snap them with my bare fingers.

Same go's for most general purpose construction screws including deck screws. If moved sideways, they snap. A nail would bend 16 times before breaking. This is why nails are used in home building, not screws.

Nat
Nat, I used drywall screws for a lot of the wood stuff I built in my bus, and so far haven't had any problems. I do, however, share your reservations about how brittle they seem to be. In your post you seem to be recommending nails? Wouldn't nails be more likely to loosen up in a mobile application? What type of screws would you recommend, if any?[/quote:fwhi1jj0]

Sorry Dan, I was over tired last night, and should have chosen my wording a bit more carefully.

No to nails. Not in a mobile application. The reference to nails was only a comparison in the material used to make the fasteners.

Screws are definitely the choice for a mobile application. Depending on where they are being used in the build,will determine the type of screws to use.

Wood to steel, like hanging your cabinets, I would use a machine screw. They are made more like a grade 8 bolt, with threads that can cut into and hold the steel.

Wood to wood in shear, I would use a number 8 deck screw up to 2 inches long. Beyond that length , they snap off quite easily. However, if the panel is pulled tightly against the other under compression, the screw will not be able to move sideways, and longer may be used.

For applications like steel joist hangers, post hangers, hurricane straps ect, to wood, the company that make these parts sell structural screws for this application. They are made of a more flexible steel, with a 1/4 socket head for driving them. Most times these screws are number 10s.

Believe it or not, a 1/2 inch crown framing staple will hold more than a nail. They are coated with a glue that is activated by the friction of driving them with the air stapler. They will bend back and forth about 10 times before breaking. Pulling them out is imposable.

For reference, drywall screws are number 6. Holding power without compression, 2 pounds. Holding power with full compression of material 20 pounds.

Deck screws up to 3" are usually a number 8. Holding power without compression, 10 pounds. Holding power with full compression of material 75 pounds.

Structural screws are usually a number 10. Holding power without compression, 40 pounds. Holding power with full compression of material 150 pounds.


The main reason why drywall and deck screws are made from such high tensile steel, is the method used to drive them. There is a lot of torque on that little spot where the bit fits in the head. This is why cheaper brands strip out the heads so much worse than a good quality screw.

This is only a sample of the way over complicated engineering tables of modern fasteners in residential home building. Hope it helps.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JakeC
My entire bus is built with these. Most components contacting steel were also glued with construction adhesive.

Torx Screws

BTW, Nat, you must have been bored last night. Some serious grave digging going on, haha!!

Gluing and screwing is a good Ida. Screws pull it up tight, glue sets, not only holding in sheer, but also making up for any space that was left between the ply's. As time go's on, construction adhesive only get harder.

And yes Jake, you are spot on. I have bus fever so bad, I could not sleep last night due to not getting the time to work on my buses for two days.

Nat
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Old 10-09-2013, 12:31 PM   #10
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Re: Plywood floor

Nat, thanks for the advice about screws (and the advice about power tools on another thread). This is very useful information!
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