RV News RVBusiness 2021 Top 10 RVs of the Year, plus 56 additional debuts and must-see units → ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 12-31-2020, 05:51 PM   #21
Bus Crazy
 
TheHubbardBus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 1,063
Not trying to hijack, but can't tell you how helpful & timely this is for us, Jazty. You just saved us much time & frustration!


Couple questions if you don't mind (think Kaleth could benefit as well otherwise I'd ask elsewhere):


1) Our driver's window has 2 such holes already built into the lower edge of the aluminum window frame itself. Any reason not to duplicate that in the side windows w/ a dremel?


2) Probably a stupid question: Why have sealant along the lower (external) edge at all if you're draining out that area anyway?
__________________

TheHubbardBus is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2020, 05:52 PM   #22
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 4,570
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaleth2 View Post
It seems like our back leak is stronger than what would come from that kind of seepage
If there's one thing I've learned from chasing down my leaks, it's that an astonishing amount of water can come in through really tiny holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaleth2 View Post
The drilled holes I referenced. Are through the floor in the window well. Wondering if they had a chronic leak problem they solved by use drilling a couple holes so the water would drain out.
If the hole is through the bottom of the window well, that would allow water inside the bus which would be no bueno. If it's through the front piece like in jazty's example, that makes total sense.
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2020, 05:54 PM   #23
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,736
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Ah, I thought you meant a weep hole on the bottom of the sill, so that water would flow down inside the bus. Your weep hole location makes sense and I may try that on my one front window that is still leaking.

Good thing I clarified with a photo! 1000 words and so on...
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2020, 05:56 PM   #24
Bus Crazy
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,736
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus View Post
1) Our driver's window has 2 such holes already built into the lower edge of the aluminum window frame itself. Any reason not to duplicate that in the side windows w/ a dremel?
I don't see why not. If it seems sensible, go for it! Just play the game of "mental water". If water gets in, over, through, will it's escape path be to the outside?


Quote:
Originally Posted by TheHubbardBus View Post
2) Probably a stupid question: Why have sealant along the lower (external) edge at all if you're draining out that area anyway?
You can omit the lower caulking altogether, I'm sure. On my Thomas there is actually a sizable gap below the window. Probably about 3/16". I caulked that gap to keep the wind from whistling through.
__________________
My build page: Armageddon - The Smell of Airborne Rust
jazty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2020, 09:12 PM   #25
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 130
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat3126
Weíre thinking the weep holes will be helpful for air circulation after we insulate and start on the interior build. Hope you figure out your leak!
Kaleth2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-31-2020, 09:15 PM   #26
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 130
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat3126
I saw a youtube on how to replace that glass gasket. On the windows we have, FS Bluebird 2002, thereís no easy way to do it:/ Have to pull window out, disassemble frame and then rewrap the window with the new gasket and put the window frame back together. Itís an easy disassembly, just very time consuming to do!
Kaleth2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2021, 09:44 PM   #27
Bus Crazy
 
CHEESE_WAGON's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Virginia
Posts: 2,017
Year: None
Coachwork: None
Chassis: None
Engine: None
Rated Cap: None
Here's another thought. Try checking around any and all light housings on / in the roof, including the amber / reds especially if there was a roof-mounted beacon from service as a school bus. They should have gaskets to prevent leakage, and could be the problem if the gaskets are weak or rotted. Plenty of potential for water to get in there, they are right in the line of fire. Do NOT remove these lights, they are required for vehicles over a certain width / height / length. A healthy dose of RTV or silicone should fix any leaks in these without making servicing them a problem in the future.
__________________

"CHEESE WAGON" <anomaly.va@gmail.com>
Suggested reading: (4 threads)
CHEESE_WAGON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2021, 08:46 AM   #28
Bus Geek
 
musigenesis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Philadelphia
Posts: 4,570
Year: 2003
Coachwork: International
Chassis: CE 300
Engine: DT466e
Rated Cap: 65C-43A
Quote:
Originally Posted by CHEESE_WAGON View Post
Here's another thought. Try checking around any and all light housings on / in the roof, including the amber / reds especially if there was a roof-mounted beacon from service as a school bus. They should have gaskets to prevent leakage, and could be the problem if the gaskets are weak or rotted. Plenty of potential for water to get in there, they are right in the line of fire. Do NOT remove these lights, they are required for vehicles over a certain width / height / length. A healthy dose of RTV or silicone should fix any leaks in these without making servicing them a problem in the future.
I would strongly second this suggestion. On my back end, every light was leaking - obvious from the literal rivers of rust running down the inside from each opening. The rubber gaskets had all shrunk and hardened (or the paper gaskets had rotted away) and the metal plates in the flasher lights had mostly rusted away. Huge source of potential water ingress.
__________________
Rusty 87 build thread
musigenesis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-02-2021, 03:01 PM   #29
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 130
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat3126
Thanks for all the suggestions! We now have a dry bus!

Thanks so much for all of your responses! Gave me a boost of energy and resolve to get back out there and explore with new eyes. I sealed all rivets that were connected to the roof rib that had water dripping out from the bottom into the window well and solved that one. Looks like hell, but, when we paint with Henryís thatíll be solved. Then I went over the the rib the same way. In the process, I discovered that the tape over the stop sign mount holes had peeled away in the rain and water was getting in there. Iím going to remount that stop sign after I play with the message and turn it into art, so, I temporarily resealed that, and now the bus is dry...Yay Definately peace of mind here in Oregon!
Happy New Year!!!
Kaleth2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2021, 04:40 PM   #30
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Aug 2020
Location: Nevada City, CA
Posts: 27
Year: 2006
Engine: Caterpillar C7
So glad to be seeing this thread. I canít imagine the frustration you must be feeling after all of that work! We did a bunch of hoes tests early in the spring and again in the summer but they somehow did not shine a light on the leaks that are now flooding into my bus during the winter rains in the Sierra foothills. And now that it is wet and raining it is really hard to get these things sealed. I have already installed my subfloor sprayInsulated the walls and ceiling, and luckily was just able to get my woodstove installed in time but it is a constant game of trying to keep it dry and keep my woodwork and framing and subfloor from molding. Iím under the impression that when this was a commercial school bus the way the insulation and walls were constructed, it appeared as though water was expected to flow through the walls and out the bottom. I have tried different types of sealant but even the best ones get washed away in the rain before they can dry. Iím still trying to read through all of the helpful posts and responses here, but this is definitely an area that needs a true expert!
freeandeasywanderer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-06-2021, 10:56 PM   #31
Bus Nut
 
Bon Voyage's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Posts: 326
Year: 2001
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cummins ISC 260HP/660Q/MD3060 6spd
Rated Cap: 81
Henryís tropicool isnít all its cracked up to be. It will help seal if your roof is leaking but it wonít seal anything big. The problem with it is it holds dirt and looks very dirty. Itís also very hard to clean, you canít just use a spray car wash, you have to wash with a cloth. Then it just gets dirty again very quickly. It wouldíve been way better if I just painted my roof white. I only had one or two leaks on my roof so maybe itís worth it if you have lots.
Bon Voyage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2021, 08:25 AM   #32
Mini-Skoolie
 
Compass's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Troy, VT
Posts: 15
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: DT 466 Int.
Rated Cap: Depends on gender
I used that gimmicky looking clear FlexSeal spray on my exterior caulk along the bottom of the glass. It worked! For about $13. a can, I touch up all 22 windows about twice per year in about 10 minutes.
Compass is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2021, 08:48 AM   #33
New Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2020
Location: FL
Posts: 2
Year: 2002
For amusement purposes only...

You should NEVER allow anything to drive you crazy.

It's not far... the walk would be good for you!
LoisWade42 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2021, 09:43 AM   #34
Almost There
 
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Larchmont NY
Posts: 70
Engine: Mountains, highways, east to west coast capable
Rated Cap: Wheelchair lift ~34c 24a
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaleth2 View Post
In the process, I discovered that the tape over the stop sign mount holes had peeled away in the rain and water was getting in there. Iím going to remount that stop sign after I play with the message and turn it into art, so, I temporarily resealed that, and now the bus is dry...Yay Definately peace of mind here in Oregon!
Happy New Year!!!
What did you use as a temporary seal? Will an residue create issues with painting the bus later?
Caplansail is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2021, 07:21 PM   #35
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 130
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by freeandeasywanderer View Post
So glad to be seeing this thread. I canít imagine the frustration you must be feeling after all of that work! We did a bunch of hoes tests early in the spring and again in the summer but they somehow did not shine a light on the leaks that are now flooding into my bus during the winter rains in the Sierra foothills. And now that it is wet and raining it is really hard to get these things sealed. I have already installed my subfloor sprayInsulated the walls and ceiling, and luckily was just able to get my woodstove installed in time but it is a constant game of trying to keep it dry and keep my woodwork and framing and subfloor from molding. Iím under the impression that when this was a commercial school bus the way the insulation and walls were constructed, it appeared as though water was expected to flow through the walls and out the bottom. I have tried different types of sealant but even the best ones get washed away in the rain before they can dry. Iím still trying to read through all of the helpful posts and responses here, but this is definitely an area that needs a true expert!
Iím so sorry that youíre having to deal with that! I wish I were the expert to help. After this last massive rain the leak reappeared Grateful it seems to be less.
I read about some sealants that are supposed to cure under water. I wonder if you googled that? We use slowed our build way down and have planned how to continue without closing the walls up until we fix them.
Kaleth2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-07-2021, 07:22 PM   #36
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Oct 2019
Location: Corvallis Oregon
Posts: 130
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: Freightliner
Engine: Cat3126
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caplansail View Post
What did you use as a temporary seal? Will an residue create issues with painting the bus later?
I just used some really good utility tape. It will leave a residue when you pull it off. I clean that up with some acetone fairly easily.
Kaleth2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:35 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×