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06-26-2015, 11:14 PM
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#21
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
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They use Ceramic on Bike Exhaust to not burn you... I could only imagine how suspending ceramic in paint also provides a superior heat barrier~
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
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06-27-2015, 11:23 AM
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#22
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario
Posts: 1,791
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: B3800 Short bus
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by USMCRockinRV
They use Ceramic on Bike Exhaust to not burn you... I could only imagine how suspending ceramic in paint also provides a superior heat barrier~
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If you had 95% ceramic in the paint like those exhaust coatings then, yes, it could plausibly make an improvement. Note that they don't use ceramic beads, though. From my understanding, they are typically made from ceramic dust + binding agents, etc.. Lizardskin makes a ceramic coating that goes on thick. Thickness is probably the biggest player in this insulated paint debate. Of course, real insulation always wins out.
I have no experience with that type of coating, though. I've only tested HyTech's product and it was lackluster. If you've read the thread I posted earlier you will see that the results were disappointing.
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06-27-2015, 02:45 PM
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#23
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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all this debate on painting the roof... and it's only going to serve one purpose
personally, I'd lean toward putting up an almuminuminumnumum framed deck floating 2 inches above the highest part of the roof, insulate it with layers of 1/2" plywood*, 1" double foiled insulated foam board, refletix, with a 3/4" layer of plywood on top, with aluminum cross bracing, weld stake pockets on the main aluminum frame, with stakes for a removable canopy with sun shade fabric... or make a screened porch for catching the breezes, when the weather is nice.
and turn that deck into dual purpose, like the upper deck of houseboats, with airflow under the deck.
Start the aluminum frame just behind the driver's cabin, and put solar panels above the driver's cabin, on tilting frames you can tilt them from the upper deck. Lay flat during transport, and tilt when you're on location.
a short 3' - 4' rear deck mounted to back of bus for a staircase /or\ ladder on one side, and opposite side of deck for the lower part of a mini-split A/C unit with dual zones for the back half and front half of bus.
paint it all you want, but you're not going to be walking around on top of it much!
*you could even use expanded steel for the underside of deck, if you prepare it for electrolysis because of differing metals.
edit:
as soon as I posted this comment... the images that refresh at the top of the page showed this?
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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06-27-2015, 03:22 PM
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#24
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Since we're on the subject of elastomeric paint has anyone applied it right over metal that was treated with ospho with out primer afterwards?
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06-27-2015, 03:27 PM
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#25
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
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Poll: elastomeric vs. white paint on roof
That's cool... I think the best practice and I saw this when I drove onto the Branch Davidian Property (true story)... Is to bury the Bus 5' underground - it blocks out most of the sun... [emoji15]
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
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06-27-2015, 03:46 PM
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#26
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Was that before or after the weenie roast??
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06-27-2015, 04:09 PM
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#27
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 218
Year: 1997
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allwthrrider
Since we're on the subject of elastomeric paint has anyone applied it right over metal that was treated with ospho with out primer afterwards?
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If I recall correctly, Ospho specifically warns it is not primer.
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06-27-2015, 05:08 PM
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#28
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timelord
If I recall correctly, Ospho specifically warns it is not primer.
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It just says treat, let dry overnight then paint, no mention of priming.
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06-27-2015, 05:16 PM
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#29
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Skoolie
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 218
Year: 1997
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: Genesis
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 84
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I just went out to the shop to read the bottle. What I was recalling was that it warns it is not a *paint*. So... I have no idea on if primer is required or not. I put on a primer coat when I did my floor.
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06-27-2015, 05:30 PM
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#30
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Statesville, North Carolina
Posts: 467
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: International Navistar DT360
Rated Cap: 60
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That deck would be nice, but with a lil' 360 engine we're already gonna have enough weight to pull up a hill. Plus paint is cheaper. Plus I've heard roof decks make it waaaay harder to insure.
__________________
My build thread:https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/build-thread-for-haulin-oats-and-goats-11237.html#post113500
A gal, a guy, three cats, two dogs, one rabbit, and one goat, traveling the country together.
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06-27-2015, 07:49 PM
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#31
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timelord
I just went out to the shop to read the bottle. What I was recalling was that it warns it is not a *paint*. So... I have no idea on if primer is required or not. I put on a primer coat when I did my floor.
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But it also says paint will adhere far better
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06-28-2015, 12:35 AM
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#32
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Stony Plain Alberta Canada
Posts: 2,937
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: 190hp 5.9 Cummins
Rated Cap: 72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milkmania
personally, I'd lean toward putting up an almuminuminumnumum framed deck floating 2 inches above the highest part of the roof, insulate it with layers of 1/2" plywood*, 1" double foiled insulated foam board, refletix, with a 3/4" layer of plywood on top, with aluminum cross bracing, weld stake pockets on the main aluminum frame, with stakes for a removable canopy with sun shade fabric... or make a screened porch for catching the breezes, when the weather is nice.
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No thanks, way too much plywood.
White painted aluminum expanded metal would make a far better deck serface, than a bunch of water logged plywood that high up.
I feel the insulation is not necessary in the roof deck. The only purpose is to block sunlight, and allow air to travel between the bus and the deck for natural cooling.
Aluminum is the best metal to disperse the heat absorbed from the direct sunlight.
Insulation should be inside the metal bus shell for maximum performance.
Other than that I like the idea's you mentioned.
Nat
__________________
"Don't argue with stupid people. They will just drag you down to their level, and beat you up with experience."
Patently waiting for the apocalypses to level the playing field in this physiological game of life commonly known as Civilization
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06-28-2015, 01:25 AM
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#33
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
No thanks, way too much plywood.
White painted aluminum expanded metal would make a far better deck serface, than a bunch of water logged plywood that high up.
I feel the insulation is not necessary in the roof deck. The only purpose is to block sunlight, and allow air to travel between the bus and the deck for natural cooling.
Aluminum is the best metal to disperse the heat absorbed from the direct sunlight.
Insulation should be inside the metal bus shell for maximum performance.
Other than that I like the idea's you mentioned.
Nat
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quite true regarding the plywood, after I typed it all out... I found that red bus with "deck boards" that would be a better option, and I wouldn't think anything less that insulating inside the bus, and using a deck over that. I'll agree that aluminum makes great heat sink material, but expanded aluminum with allow light to pass through.
I saw a deck display a while back at my local Home Depot that had a very thick textured material covering it.... I believe it was a Rustoleum 4x Restore deck product, and I learned they have it in white
edit: disregard the bold part... I'm reading about a class action lawsuit now
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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06-28-2015, 09:46 AM
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#34
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
Was that before or after the weenie roast??
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Hahahaha After...Weird place
And you could still see the holes in the slab that went into the underground buses.
Over in Europe I saw the boats that had Sod Roofs - LOL
Not sure that would work for the Rockin RV~
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
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06-28-2015, 10:08 AM
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#35
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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My aunt lived near Waco back in those days. I think I was 14. I'd imagine it is a bit weird. But I'm the guy who wants to travel to Guyana.
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06-28-2015, 10:11 AM
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#36
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Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Alvin, TX
Posts: 122
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Safe-T Liner MVP
Engine: 12V Cummins
Rated Cap: 75
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Hahahahaha.... I think wanting to travel is a healthy thing - wanting to let 'everyone' know the world is ending while blaming 'everyone' in the world... Not so much!!!! LOL
__________________
1996
Thomas
Safety Liner MVP
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07-01-2015, 12:27 PM
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#37
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Vacaville, Ca
Posts: 1,634
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Crown / Pusher
Engine: 8.3 Cummins
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Quote:
Originally Posted by allwthrrider
But it also says paint will adhere far better
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Just called the company & their tech services said no primer necessary as long it hasn't been exposed to moister
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07-02-2015, 01:23 PM
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#38
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Oklahoma aka "God's blind spot"
Posts: 2,446
Year: 1989
Coachwork: 1853FC International/Navistar
Chassis: 35' Retired Air Force Ambulance
Engine: DT466, MT643
Rated Cap: 6 souls and a driver
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someone is utilizing the wasted space the way I'm talking about....
the metal roof is in the shade 24/7, 365
__________________
I once complained I had no shoes....
Until I met a man with no feet
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07-03-2015, 12:15 AM
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#39
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Statesville, North Carolina
Posts: 467
Year: 1993
Chassis: Thomas
Engine: International Navistar DT360
Rated Cap: 60
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I ended up going to an auto paint store. They set me up with two gallons for the body (pale green), one gallon for the roof (white), with hardener, for $177. I'll be spraying it on. It's acrylic enamel with add-in hardener, so it should last pretty decently and look somewhat glossy.
__________________
My build thread:https://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/build-thread-for-haulin-oats-and-goats-11237.html#post113500
A gal, a guy, three cats, two dogs, one rabbit, and one goat, traveling the country together.
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07-03-2015, 08:49 AM
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#40
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Good call...the hardener makes a HUGE difference in durability.
Makes for nice shiny too.
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