Pondering floor removal

[Robin97396]

Cap, I think I'm going to copy your insulation window panel system. That will also help me figure out if I actually want to remove any windows in the future.

Dred, I've been strapping things to the wall but never really gave thought to using the L-track for movable framing. I like it.

JA, it definitely depends on how you want to use it. Winters here aren't that bad, but if I were on a trip to AK I'd have to have a much better setup. I like your idea of moving to better climates and that's what this bus is supposed to provide.

[ashbroussard59]

We're starting our conversion tomorrow. But we are looking for all the helpful tips we can get. For starters what tools are needed to rip up the floors and how do we start that process?

Originally Posted by gbstewart

get rid of it, the rubber gives off a smell, rip all down to the metal put a coat of paint on the metal, if there's rust fix it. you won't be sorry for doing it, but you may be sorry you didn't do it.
gbstewart

[FlyboyHPD]

Originally Posted by ashbroussard59

We're starting our conversion tomorrow. But we are looking for all the helpful tips we can get. For starters what tools are needed to rip up the floors and how do we start that process?

You'll need a long pry bar to help lift the plywood from the floor if the screws are stripped. You may also need an angle grinder. When doing mine I used a skill saw set just to the depth of the plywood itself and cut it into smaller sections. That made getting it up much easier than trying to pry up a whole 4x8 ft section.

Start at the very back of the bus if you have a rear door. Drive the pry bar underneath the wood and start prying it all up.

[mysty]

I must've lucked out on my floor. It had no plywood, and the adhesive was old and fairly brittle. A utility knive and prybar took care of removing the floor in about a day. I might've used the grinder for some of the more stubborn bits of aluminum trim holding down the center aisle.

[ashbroussard59]

No we have a shuttle type bus and it doesn't have a rear door. I appreciate all the input u can give though. We want to learn, grow and develop handy skills from this conversion.

Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD

You'll need a long pry bar to help lift the plywood from the floor if the screws are stripped. You may also need an angle grinder. When doing mine I used a skill saw set just to the depth of the plywood itself and cut it into smaller sections. That made getting it up much easier than trying to pry up a whole 4x8 ft section.

Start at the very back of the bus if you have a rear door. Drive the pry bar underneath the wood and start prying it all up.

[ashbroussard59]

What kind of bus do you have?

[Robin97396]

Well said Flyboy.

You guys are going to become very good friends with your local Harbor Freight store, if you're not already.

Some floors come up really easy, while other people really have to work at it to pull everything out. Some of that may be related to the chosen tools for the job. I just use a hammer to get rid of the remaining screws after the plywood is out. Hit the screws like a nail and they either go through or they break off.

Cleaning the floor is self explanatory. I highly suggest go to the car wash and spraying the floor, if not all, of the bus. There's how many years of child originated filth in a bus? Save some of that 20 year old gum, and count the change you find while tearing out the floor.

Have you heard the penny conversation for plugging holes in the floor?

[ashbroussard59]

Robyn97396 no I have not heard that conversation. But I'm eager to hear and learn all that I can from people who are experienced and can help us.

[Robin97396]

A short time ago we have had extensive discussions concerning the use of pennies to cover holes in bus floors. They get epoxied down on the floor where needed. If it takes more than $3 or $4 to patch up your floor, maybe consider laying down some new metal.

The discussions kind of morphed into metalurgy and electroysis of the copper and zink in pennies and went on for days until that subject was thourally worn out. The conclusion was it's probably good to use a similar metal to the steel floor if you're at all worried about corrosion. Alternatives are nickels, dimes, quarters is you've got a fancy bus. Coaches should probably use quarters.

Imagine 30 years from now if someone finds those old coins while putting another floor in the bus.

Obviously similar metals would be best. Loose change is not the preferred way to eliminate holes in your steel floor. It's just one method that has been used, and it's certainly cost effective. Some people weld the holes closed. Not unlike the entire build, it depends on what you think is best because you're the only one that knows how you're going to use your bus.

[Rameses]

Use 1943 pennies to avoid dissimilar metal issues.

[Tango]

I have a roll of steel pennies but they ain't going on any damned bus floor!

(Besides...I already welded all the holes in mine anyway)

[Robin97396]

You guys just made that into an expensive floor repair. Circulated wheat pennies are worth about 45 cents each, but mint condition pennies are reported to be worth $10 each.
It used to be three dollars worth of pennies and five dollars worth of glue.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

You guys just made that into an expensive floor repair. Circulated wheat pennies are worth about 45 cents each, but mint condition pennies are reported to be worth $10 each.
It used to be three dollars worth of pennies and five dollars worth of glue.

I've gotten steel wheats for cheap. I've got at least a couple rolls of em.
Even got one in a roll from the bank a couple years ago.
War nickels are my favorite find, though.

[Robin97396]

I use cards so much now that I don't see much change anymore.

[Joyful]

Thanks for all the insight in this thread. I've been on the fence about doing the full rip out on my floor as well. It's a California bus, so it's not been on salt roads. I've crawled all over the underside of the bus, and it looks like it's in really good shape. I've pulled all the trim off the floor ahead of the rip out, and crawled all over the floor, and the wood is in really good shape so far.


Given it's a long haul, short stay, fair weather camper, versus a long stay, four season live-aboard, I'm leaning toward pulling out the rubber mats and, if everything continues to look good, seal the bolt holes, and cover it with some reclaimed wood laminate.

But I'm recording the decision now, so that if I was wrong five years from now, I can come back and say "You Told Me So!"

[Chongolio]

I am also forgoing a floor tear out and insulated rebuild in my short bus.

Mainly because of the additional cost and time constraints.

The under carriage is clean, rust free and has been sprayed. Where I have pulled up the rubber inside, the floor is fine.

The rubber is staying put since it is in good shape and does not stink, but I will be throwing some easy to clean industrial rugs over it.

I don’t plan to be in cold climates longer than I have too. If I am shoes, socks and warm clothes are available.

Having said that, I am proceeding with my build in a way that allows easy removal of cabinets and shelves if I ever decide to tear up the floor.

I do see the value in checking the conditions of your floors then acting accordingly.

However, we all have different circumstances and must evaluate our own priorities, needs and budget.

[Tango]

Go for it! Building these rigs to fit our own personal needs and wishes is the whole idea. Do what works for you!

[truth2ak]

I came across this old discussion and was wondering how it worked out for you? I have the same delima except my bus is a 2001 Bluebird CSRE 3904 that was used as a prisoner transport from So Cal with stainless steel floor. I can’t see me breaking my back to take out a stainless steel floor only to find i should have just left it in. What are your thoughts?

Originally Posted by dredman

I will cast my vote to KEEP the rubber mat. Only because my removal required an estimated 800 bolts - cut from underneath, which would have required time I DID NOT HAVE.

Do I wish I could have marble floors? Sure!
Is the rubber floor hard to clean? You bet!

The smell I have is from my dog and me living in the bus - I guess my rubber mat came from a different factory than everyone else's?

It is a floor. If you have other priorities (like I do) than living in a rolling house-replica, then focus on the things you think will make you happy, like I did.

You can always rip out the floor later, but I think I will simply buy another bus....one with top-cut bolts instead, this time

My failed attempt at pulling floor out

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f32/dr...000-10611.html

[GWRider]

One way too fill in the seat bolt holes in the steel floor (if you don't have a welder) is using a bolt of the same diameter as the hole and it's length is no longer than the thickness of the floor (unless you don't care it shows underneath). You can use some Loctite on the threads and then grind off the head so it is level with the floor.