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Old 01-24-2022, 08:33 AM   #1
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Possibly reusing interior skin

Hi y'all,

I am in the planning process and getting ready to buy my first bus. I am going to do a roof raise and was wondering if anyone has considered stripping the interior sheet metal to be used as the patch material for the exterior.

I was unable to find any information on the gauge of the original ceiling material and was wondering if it would suffice.


Also, if you anyone has any good resources (youtube channels/build threads etc...) I have been doing pretty extensive research but always welcome more guidance.

Best,

Andrew

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Old 01-24-2022, 09:22 AM   #2
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the interior roof skin could be used. but if you are aggressive with removal or installation it could wrinkle. If you plan on spray foaming it also is possible to cause wrinkles as the foam cures and pulls on the metal. Take a look at Wes's build (Transcendence Existence-youtube) He reused the interior and had mild oil canning after spray foam...

I think the BB interior skin is 18 or 16 ga. I opted for 14ga on my raise and experienced no deformation. Although the material was heavier it was more rigid and stood up to pounding when trying to get it tucked under the existing seams correctly. A little more rigid helps in handling the material too. Its less floppy when you lift it.
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:39 PM   #3
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Interior skins are 20 guage.

18ga is optimal for skinning but 20 is alright.
16ga if you like it heavy and harder to cut. 14ga is beyond overkill. 14ga is what the ribs themselves are made of.
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:45 PM   #4
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My numbers might have been sized up a step. It's been a minute since I had to do sheet metal work. Still I think the interior skin is too light duty. My $0.02
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:51 PM   #5
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My Bluebird has a perforated ceiling (a billion tiny holes) that is used to allow air circulation to keep the insulation for rotting. Hopefully yours isn't that way.
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Old 01-24-2022, 03:52 PM   #6
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I worked a long time in steel fab. I can pinch a piece of steel and tell ya what gauge it is.
But if ever in doubt a gauge tool is cheap and easy-
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Thi...74419246&psc=1

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Old 01-24-2022, 03:54 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Brand View Post
My Bluebird has a perforated ceiling (a billion tiny holes) that is used to allow air circulation to keep the insulation for rotting. Hopefully yours isn't that way.
the holes are actually for sound deadening. It reduces the echo effect. Some districts order em that way, some don't.
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Old 01-24-2022, 06:15 PM   #8
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I use different thicknesses.




We used the interior wall skins to seal some factory installed convection leaks, in front of the stairwell. Drafty stairwell, no more.






I also used the wall steel
to replace the plastic hump between the rear seats.






Shaping the wall steel, I was able to use simple hand tools:
standard tin snips,
ball peen hammer (a must),
diy brake of C-clamps w/angle iron...
all on the picnic table.


--------

The heavier, 16 guage roof patches are more material to work with. Takes longer to cut & drill, power tools are a must, probably specialty (metal shop) tools if you want a fine edge, complex shapes or clean brakes.



Even where the factory uses thinner gauge, it can oil can, 'volcano' or gather around their screws.


A thicker guage can help pull it all flat.



If there is an intended load, like a rooftop a/c, I'll want the additional thickness to maintain shape.


If you need to hold a specific shape or a load, use thicker steel.
If you feel that you just need to seal a hole but not hold a perfect shape, maybe the quick & handi-steel.

All of the 16g steel patches used on my rig (above) were given to me by EastCoastCB. They were pre-cut to exact spec using a plasma cutter in pro's hand.




If you're willing to do it the hard way, use 16g, predrill everything and obsess over any detail that might affect an air/liquitight seal.
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Old 01-24-2022, 06:23 PM   #9
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Damn, man. You're really good at this stuff! We need to come see yall this year.
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Old 01-24-2022, 07:28 PM   #10
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We are only 30 minutes away. Nearby.
Come see the outdoor shower we're building using the ceiling skin. (non-perforated, for privacy)
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Old 01-24-2022, 07:30 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay Brand View Post
My Bluebird has a perforated ceiling (a billion tiny holes) that is used to allow air circulation to keep the insulation for rotting. Hopefully yours isn't that way.
I believe the perforations in the ceiling panels are for acoustics, to prevent sound from reverberating inside the bus too badly.
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Old 01-25-2022, 09:21 AM   #12
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Thank you guys for the good information. Between trying to recycle as much as possible and be as cost-effective as possible it's good to know "theoretically" it is possible.

It was my assumption that the metal itself would be enough to cover for skin but I could potentially run into problems with it laying perfectly flat and looking nice.

I was considering using extra vinyl flooring boards I have to wrap over the raised section and make something similar to a 69' international harvester travalla. Being that its material I already have I figured it would further help with insulation and if nothing more the ascetic would be nice.
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Old 01-25-2022, 09:24 AM   #13
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@DeMac I also wanted to point out everything about what you shared is beautiful - you're doing a phenomenal job!
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Old 01-25-2022, 04:45 PM   #14
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Thank you, Aiannucci. I'm still a novice at most skoooie tasks.
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Old 01-25-2022, 08:05 PM   #15
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Thank you, Aiannucci. I'm still a novice at most skoooie tasks.
Expert level IV novice, then!
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Old 01-26-2022, 05:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
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I was considering using extra vinyl flooring boards I have to wrap over the raised section and make something similar to a 69' international harvester travalla. Being that its material I already have I figured it would further help with insulation and if nothing more the ascetic would be nice.
That won't help with insulation at all. Insulating value is a function of a material's thermal conductivity and its thickness; the thermal conductivity of vinyl flooring is about the same as wood, and since it's only 1/8" thick it doesn't really even matter what its thermal conductivity is.

I can't knock it aesthetically since I'm going to use it for my own floors.
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