Potential Ospho problem

[Dizzyman]

Yesterday I put Ospho on the prepped floor of our bus using a brush on the chair rail and along the edges of the floor and a short knap roller for the rest. I have never applied anything before that was water thin but applied it as lightly as possible. This morning on my way to work I stuck my head in the bus (it had been about 20 hours since application) and observed a few black spots (good) a number of areas that appeared to be covered with tiny bubbles on top (NOT good?) and when I touched the floor it was sticky still (BAD?) Since I worked today it will be right at 48 hrs of drying time before I check it again. If it is still sticky, what do I do? What do I do with the areas with the small bubbles on top?

Silly me, I had thought I finally reached one part that would be quick and easy!

[Dizzyman]

I checked the Ospho website and found nothing for either problem. I'm sure I'm not the first to experience it though!

[roach711]

Here's a response I found from Ospho about a similar problem:


"The Ospho is trying to get through the paint to treat the surface and it
will break down the paint and could cause a greasy or tacky surface. If that
happens you will have to wipe it down with mineral spirits or paint thinner
that will help remove that surface and let it dry for you."

[Dizzyman]

Oh boy, I hope I don't have to do that! It went down on bare steel!

[Native]

The sticky stuff will eventually dry out ... it takes a long time and it leaves thicker areas of residue much like a paint run. It is easiest to wipe it off while it is still tacky with a very damp cloth then a dry cloth. You may need to work larger areas with a wire bruch or even a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder once it is dried. The real key is to apply it in a very light coat (originally) with a spray bottle. Sorry you have to go through the extra prep on your machine.


I see you are in Cleburne ... Hurst here.

[EastCoastCB]

What's going on? I've not seen it sticky before. How much did you put down?

[Dizzyman]

Originally Posted by Native

The sticky stuff will eventually dry out ... it takes a long time and it leaves thicker areas of residue much like a paint run. It is easiest to wipe it off while it is still tacky with a very damp cloth then a dry cloth. You may need to work larger areas with a wire bruch or even a wire brush wheel on an angle grinder once it is dried. The real key is to apply it in a very light coat (originally) with a spray bottle. Sorry you have to go through the extra prep on your machine.


I see you are in Cleburne ... Hurst here.

I may give it a couple more days then. If I still have some sticky patches I'll do the wet/dry thing. That won't take off the entire depth back to the bare metal will it?
Hurst - in Texas terms you are practically next door!

[Dizzyman]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

What's going on? I've not seen it sticky before. How much did you put down?

On the main part of the floor I used the shortest knap paint roller I could find and squeezed out as much Ospho in the pan as I could before rolling. Used a brush lightly for the edges.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Dizzyman

On the main part of the floor I used the shortest knap paint roller I could find and squeezed out as much Ospho in the pan as I could before rolling. Used a brush lightly for the edges.

Its like water, so I just mop it around if its a large area.
Spray bottles for hard to reach areas.

Maybe leave it to dry for a day or so and see what happens.

[o1marc]

The converter I use says to wash it off after 15 minutes.

FOR RUSTED SURFACES (To Remove Rust)
1. Remove any oil, grease, & dirt from surface. Remove loose rust with a wire brush.
2. Apply product to affected metal full strength with a paintbrush, spray bottle or pump-up sprayer. Work the solution into rusted areas with a stiff bristle brush and allow product to dry overnight to fully neutralize rust.
3. Rinse or wipe surface with a damp cloth to remove any rust residue.
4. Paint treated surface within 48 hours of application to prevent formation of new rust. Two applications may be necessary to treat severe rust.

FOR TREATING METAL FOR PAINTING (Phosphotizing)
1. Remove any oil, grease, & dirt from surface.
2. Dilute 1 part product with 3 parts water in a plastic container.
3. Apply product with a paintbrush, spray bottle or pump-up sprayer to metal. Surface may turn gray/white.
4. Thoroughly rinse with water after 15-30 minutes.
5. Wipe off any loose powder that forms. Paint treated surface within 48 hours of application to prevent formation of new rust.

[Dizzyman]

It is dry in many places! For the floor what is the best type of paint for an undercoat? Website says latex, I was told by an ex-Coast Guard friend that they always followed Ospho with an acrylic undercoat. Does it matter that much?
I plan on plugging all of the holes with Bondo then applying the undercoat.

[PNW_Steve]

I used Rustolium Rusty Metal Primer.

I will be following with Rustolium Enamel.

so far the primer on the floor is holding up to traffic very well.

[Dizzyman]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I used Rustolium Rusty Metal Primer.

I will be following with Rustolium Enamel.

so far the primer on the floor is holding up to traffic very well.

Glad to hear that, I may give that enamel a shot.

[Native]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I used Rustolium Rusty Metal Primer.

I will be following with Rustolium Enamel.

so far the primer on the floor is holding up to traffic very well.

Same here ... added ceramic beads to the paint layer.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Native

Same here ... added ceramic beads to the paint layer.

I painted the interior of a 4 story business block one time and part of the contract was to paint the 8' wide concrete stairs with sand added to the top coat as an anti slip - a couple of days later I was getting complaints from the cleaning staff that the sand was pulling strings out of the mops - I had to go back and run a pole sander over 8 flights of stairs to take the sharpness off of them, then paint all the stairs with a 4th coat of porch and floor enamel - $$$$

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Dizzyman

It is dry in many places! For the floor what is the best type of paint for an undercoat? Website says latex, I was told by an ex-Coast Guard friend that they always followed Ospho with an acrylic undercoat. Does it matter that much?
I plan on plugging all of the holes with Bondo then applying the undercoat.

no latex. I'd use a cheap oil based enamel for floors.

[Native]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

I painted the interior of a 4 story business block one time and part of the contract was to paint the 8' wide concrete stairs with sand added to the top coat as an anti slip - a couple of days later I was getting complaints from the cleaning staff that the sand was pulling strings out of the mops - I had to go back and run a pole sander over 8 flights of stairs to take the sharpness off of them, then paint all the stairs with a 4th coat of porch and floor enamel - $$$$

Yeah, it does trap the dirt. However, it is all under the flooring so that really does not matter.

[Dizzyman]

Originally Posted by Sleddgracer

I painted the interior of a 4 story business block one time and part of the contract was to paint the 8' wide concrete stairs with sand added to the top coat as an anti slip - a couple of days later I was getting complaints from the cleaning staff that the sand was pulling strings out of the mops - I had to go back and run a pole sander over 8 flights of stairs to take the sharpness off of them, then paint all the stairs with a 4th coat of porch and floor enamel - $$$$

OUCH! Makes my back hurt just reading it!

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by Native

Same here ... added ceramic beads to the paint layer.

Originally Posted by Dizzyman

OUCH! Makes my back hurt just reading it!

lol - decent money can be made while painting, or at least enough to feed my large family - while it can reward the creative needs a person may have, it can also be a body destroying occupation

[Dizzyman]

It took 3 days but the Ospho did dry, albeit with a couple of rough spots where bubbles had been. I brushed and wiped the white powder areas. Swept and vacuumed the entire floor then applied Rustoleum oil based white professional High Performance enamel metal primer. 36 hrs later it was dry so we top coated that with white Rustoleum oil based Professional High Performance Protective enamel. Looks good, fingers crossed!