Propane appliance install ?s

[JonCBrand]

Ok i finally got my LP tank
30 lb rv style
got it half full for $30 at swap meet.
I have a suburban 6 gal water heater.
Also installing a 20k btu radiant heater.

What would you use to run from the tank to the heaters.
Also should i run a regulator right off the tank then low pressure to the appliances or should i run a separate regulator at each heater.

One more
My water heater has and aluminum tank. I used pvc inside the bus is it safe to run the pvc directly to the water heater with no fear of melting the pvc or do i need to run something else to the water heater.
Thanks Jon

PS if somebody wants to buy my bus from me it is still for sale

[frank-id]

Propane is a great fuel but certain cautions must be exercised. NO PVC or Plastic can be used in any part of Propane systems. The easiest method propane distribution is a black iron pipe located under bus/rv. The pressure regulator should be located at propane tank. Propane should have new type shut off valve on tank the is triangular is shape and is called overfill protection valve. Replacement valves are about $30. A 30 gallon tank should be made for your application. This tank must be a fuel tank for a truck and made to mount horizonally. Ask the local propane store.
The seperate propane gas supplies can be copper tubing. It is a good safety measure to have a seperate gas valve at each device. Most standard gas valves are 3/8 pipe size and either flared or compression fittings are easy to install. The regulator end of the black pipe should have a flexible hose from pipe to regulator. Plan the system before doing any work as routing the path can be very easy or difficult. The propane tank location is very important.
I designed my propane system to be able to connect to an extra tank not mounted to bus. Frank

[wtd]

I used pvc inside the bus is it safe to run the pvc directly to the water heater with no fear of melting the pvc

Not a problem ....

[JonCBrand]

I have a take off tank that mounts horazontally only problem is the feet are on the bottom not the top. I can easily fix that. As for the gas line.
You are saying to have in this order.
Tank with regulator attached, then a rubber line to the black pipe that will carry the low pressure LP to my fixtures then a shut off valve then rubber or copper to my fixtures.

I should have clarified. I used PVC for the water lines.
Will that be ok for hot water.
I pre ran all the hot pipes with the cold before I got the water heater to save time when I did add hot water.

[Ryan Grimm]

Go here, I've covered this pretty much in depth...
http://www.skoolie.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=569

I did a good job of explaining the good and bad tech.

You have to use a two-stage regulator, they're the only safe and reliable way to go. You can get one cheap or free from junked trailers/fifth wheels/RVs. New they're serious buck$.

Hoses to connect the tank to the regulator to the gas line(s) are available for cheap through most RV catalogs and stores. DO NOT cobble up something from automotive hose.

Mount the two-stage regulator next to the tank. Then plumb the low-pressure line down the length of the bus, T-ing off where you need to hook it to an appliance.
MAKE SURE YOU HAVE A GAS SHUT-OFF AT EACH APPLIANCE !!!
The valves are cheap, around $7 each. Do NOT use water valves, use ONLY gas valves !!!
Use ONLY flare fittings and/or threaded gas pipe fittings, where applicable. Do NOT use galvy pipe, it's not gas tight.
Use ONLY copper and/or black iron pipe, with the appropriate brass/copper/black iron fittings.

Larger RV places sell adapters so you can run your RV gas system off 20 pound tanks if you wish, like if you con't want to break down the camp and move the bus just for a refill. The 20# tank sits on the ground, using a hose and adapter to your existing tank.

If you want to know how big a gas line to install, take a list of your appliances with you to a place that does propane installs and maintenance. They will have a list/chart of pipe/tube sizes for what you need, to ensure adequate gas supply to each appliance.

I salvaged a BUNCH of stuff for free from a fifth-wheel trailer:
four burner stove/oven, six gallon Suburban water heater, Suburban forced air furnace, the two-stage automatic regulator (I'll be using two 20# tanks), much of the copper and fittings.
Cost? The gas to get there and back, and helping the owner junk the rest of the trailer.

Result? Priceless.......

[JonCBrand]

I stumbled across that thread last night.
Good info.
Thanks for the help