Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 11-21-2019, 09:09 AM   #21
Bus Geek
 
brokedown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,028
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.
__________________
Keep up with us and our build!
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and Twitter
brokedown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:17 AM   #22
Bus Crazy
 
Drew Bru's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Grayson County, VA
Posts: 1,200
Year: 1996
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 65
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.

Huh. It might make a difference doing it in 24" (or whatever the width of the windows is) sections if you haven't tried that. The length, I think, was a little more than 7'. It worked for us...no cracking of the panels and no scoring necessary. As a matter of fact, it was even a smaller radius/tighter bend since we put 1/2" insulation over the metal ceiling. Anyway, just a thought.
__________________
Our Build: https://dazzlingbluebus.wordpress.com/
Drew Bru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:20 AM   #23
Bus Geek
 
brokedown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,028
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
To be fair my TC is a high ceiling model and has a tighter bend than other buses I've seen. I should pay attention to the new bus and see what the corners look like ther.
__________________
Keep up with us and our build!
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and Twitter
brokedown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:27 AM   #24
Bus Crazy
 
banman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,500
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.
Did you look at the " 4'x8' sheets of "wainscoting"? It looks like T&G slats but it's not. It would be more flexible than any underlayment...
And it would take any flavor of latex house paint quite nicely.

Try flexing it in the blue or orange box store -- if it's not flexible enough for the bends you could easily cut a kerf or all the way through turning it into matching slats -- caulk on the seams if you end up with a gap and then paint.
banman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:46 AM   #25
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,094
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by brokedown View Post
i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.
Supposedly they bend into shape if you soak them ahead of time. IDK I suck at that kinda stuff.
__________________
.
Wear A Mask- Stop the Spread!
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 10:07 AM   #26
Bus Crazy
 
banman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,500
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Supposedly they bend into shape if you soak them ahead of time. IDK I suck at that kinda stuff.
If it's plywood -- you could try that...

If it's an mdf, or particle board -- after soaking -- throw it away -- it will swell and self destruct...
banman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 10:12 AM   #27
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,540
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Supposedly they bend into shape if you soak them ahead of time. IDK I suck at that kinda stuff.
Works with drywall also. Get it wetthrough and it will bend without breaking.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 10:27 AM   #28
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,094
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by banman View Post
If it's plywood -- you could try that...

If it's an mdf, or particle board -- after soaking -- throw it away -- it will swell and self destruct...
Nah I'm talking about the luan/wood type paneling.
__________________
.
Wear A Mask- Stop the Spread!
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:01 AM   #29
Bus Crazy
 
banman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,500
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
Nah I'm talking about the luan/wood type paneling.
I figured you for being smarter than that!
(but for others who be reading along...)

Luan would take it. A hardwood panel would take it but now you're getting into a more expensive product and the OP is trying to avoid that.
banman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:04 AM   #30
Bus Crazy
 
banman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Ohio
Posts: 1,500
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner FS-65
Engine: 7.2L Cat 3126 turbo diesel
Rated Cap: 71 passenger 30,000 gvwr
Quote:
Originally Posted by o1marc View Post
Works with drywall also. Get it wetthrough and it will bend without breaking.
Hmmm? I have some curved walls in my new house so I might have a chance to try that out!

I don't think drywall would hold up very well in a bus application -- it was never meant to flex and vibrate -- it would fall apart...
banman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:34 AM   #31
Skoolie
 
juliol's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Monrovia California
Posts: 147
Year: 1984
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Engine: 3208 turbo Cat
Rated Cap: 78
someone here I think it was "01marc" suggested this material:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fiberglass...V%20Fiberglass

J
juliol is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:41 AM   #32
Bus Geek
 
o1marc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 9,540
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
Quote:
Originally Posted by juliol View Post
someone here I think it was "01marc" suggested this material:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fiberglass...V%20Fiberglass

J
Thanks for the referance, but it was not I who posted that.
o1marc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:49 AM   #33
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 162
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
I can't figure out how to delete this so my next post replaces it.
BarnYardCamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 11:58 AM   #34
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Suburbs of Winterset, OH
Posts: 162
Year: 2005
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: FS65
Engine: Mercedes 6.4L
After reading that re-installing the original metal may be difficult, I think I'll skip plan "A" which was to remove the panels, install foam board insulation then re-install the metal.
Plan "B" is to try using 1/4" foam peel and stick panels which I think will be easy to tuck in under the interior lights, speakers and such. of course, we intend to use the bus as a camper and have no plans to actually live in it.
I just wish my bus was here and not in Maryland. I own it, I just don't have it....yet.
BarnYardCamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 12:10 PM   #35
Bus Geek
 
brokedown's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2016
Location: Weeki Wachee, FL
Posts: 3,028
Year: 1997
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: TC2000 FE
Engine: Cummins 5.9
Rated Cap: 72
Quote:
Originally Posted by juliol View Post
someone here I think it was "01marc" suggested this material:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fiberglass...V%20Fiberglass

J
LOL a 40 ft roll of that is a thousand bucks!
__________________
Keep up with us and our build!
Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, YouTube, and Twitter
brokedown is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 03:37 PM   #36
New Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Posts: 6
Engine: 6.2 diesel
Has anybody thought about putting cork on the ceiling?
tclifenow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 03:44 PM   #37
Bus Geek
 
EastCoastCB's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,094
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
Organic stuff doesn't fare so well in the bus environment.
__________________
.
Wear A Mask- Stop the Spread!
EastCoastCB is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 03:47 PM   #38
Bus Geek
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Eastern WA
Posts: 6,396
Year: 2002
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE (A3RE)
Engine: Cummins ISC (8.3)
Rated Cap: 72
In my first bus I used a double layer of Laun door skins. I had 1/2" plywood on the walls and 1/4" plywood on the main part of the ceiling. Then I cut lengths of doorskin to fit the transition from the walls to the ceiling. They "snapped into place with good effect and moderate profanity and blood.

The Luan door skins were cheap.

I am planning on T&G for my ceiling. If I have second thoughts I may fall back on the method I used before.
PNW_Steve is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 04:36 PM   #39
Skoolie
 
Rock-N-Ruth's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2019
Location: Freedom Field, New Mexico
Posts: 189
Year: 1998
Coachwork: International
Chassis: Amtrans
Engine: 444E
Rated Cap: 84 pas
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ronnie View Post
I am not talking about removing one screw, this is about removing all the screws and the panels. Is it a,serious issue? No I do not think so but it is a consideration and a reason to put the metal back. Besides great for magnets. Must say that part I had not really thought of, however my wife has magnetic hooks all over our ceiling.
I say oooh rah! Yea magnets! I have dropped the ceiling on one bus to add insulation. I numbered the panels and had no trouble putting them back. Got to have a place for my magnets. Make a simple jack, like a drywall jack, to hold the panels in place. Put them back in the same order they came down, being sure to follow the same overlap as before and you will be golden. Most of the panels lined up so well a punch was not needed most of the time. All the screws went back in their original holes.
Rock-N-Ruth is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-27-2019, 04:37 PM   #40
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
the biggest issue is that the bus flexes from the way it sat.. the body moves.. that ceiling is structural to some extent.. if the bus suspension settled or its been driven its real tough... at least from my experience in trying to help someone restoring a bus that a skoolie failed on a conversion and then dumped.. we tried our best to match up the metal panels.. some the holes lines up, others were way off (easy just drill new ones).. but many were in that bad spot where you cant put a screw back in the same hole as the panel and have it either make an original hole or be far enough way from existing holes to be able to drill a new one.. sure you could drill new holes in the metal panel but in my opinion that is goona look kind of tacky..

-Christopher
Would blocking the bus frame up help to limit the flex ?
shorthair is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:36 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
×