Putting the metal ceiling back up after insulating? - Page 2

brokedown · 11-21-2019, 10:09 AM

i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.

Drew Bru · 11-21-2019, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokedown

i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.

Huh. It might make a difference doing it in 24" (or whatever the width of the windows is) sections if you haven't tried that. The length, I think, was a little more than 7'. It worked for us...no cracking of the panels and no scoring necessary. As a matter of fact, it was even a smaller radius/tighter bend since we put 1/2" insulation over the metal ceiling. Anyway, just a thought.

brokedown · 11-21-2019, 10:20 AM

To be fair my TC is a high ceiling model and has a tighter bend than other buses I've seen. I should pay attention to the new bus and see what the corners look like ther.

banman · 11-21-2019, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokedown

i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.

Did you look at the ¼" 4'x8' sheets of "wainscoting"? It looks like T&G slats but it's not. It would be more flexible than any underlayment...
And it would take any flavor of latex house paint quite nicely.

Try flexing it in the blue or orange box store -- if it's not flexible enough for the bends you could easily cut a kerf or all the way through turning it into matching slats -- caulk on the seams if you end up with a gap and then paint.

EastCoastCB · 11-21-2019, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by brokedown

i tried using the thin underlayment panels in the TC2000 but at least in 4x8 sheet form they wouldn't flex enough for the transition from ceiling to wall... Even with scoring. I cracked a couple panels trying!

I've also considered the 4x8 plastic paneling but that's twice or more the cost of the underlayment per sheet.

Supposedly they bend into shape if you soak them ahead of time. IDK I suck at that kinda stuff.

banman · 11-21-2019, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Supposedly they bend into shape if you soak them ahead of time. IDK I suck at that kinda stuff.

If it's plywood -- you could try that...

If it's an mdf, or particle board -- after soaking -- throw it away -- it will swell and self destruct...

o1marc · 11-21-2019, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Supposedly they bend into shape if you soak them ahead of time. IDK I suck at that kinda stuff.

Works with drywall also. Get it wetthrough and it will bend without breaking.

EastCoastCB · 11-21-2019, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by banman

If it's plywood -- you could try that...

If it's an mdf, or particle board -- after soaking -- throw it away -- it will swell and self destruct...

Nah I'm talking about the luan/wood type paneling.

banman · 11-21-2019, 12:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Nah I'm talking about the luan/wood type paneling.

I figured you for being smarter than that!

(but for others who be reading along...)

Luan would take it. A hardwood panel would take it but now you're getting into a more expensive product and the OP is trying to avoid that.

banman · 11-21-2019, 12:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by o1marc

Works with drywall also. Get it wetthrough and it will bend without breaking.

Hmmm? I have some curved walls in my new house so I might have a chance to try that out!

I don't think drywall would hold up very well in a bus application -- it was never meant to flex and vibrate -- it would fall apart...

juliol · 11-21-2019, 12:34 PM

someone here I think it was "01marc" suggested this material:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fiberglass...V%20Fiberglass

J

o1marc · 11-21-2019, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juliol

someone here I think it was "01marc" suggested this material:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fiberglass...V%20Fiberglass

J

Thanks for the referance, but it was not I who posted that.

BarnYardCamp · 11-21-2019, 12:49 PM

I can't figure out how to delete this so my next post replaces it.

BarnYardCamp · 11-21-2019, 12:58 PM

After reading that re-installing the original metal may be difficult, I think I'll skip plan "A" which was to remove the panels, install foam board insulation then re-install the metal.
Plan "B" is to try using 1/4" foam peel and stick panels which I think will be easy to tuck in under the interior lights, speakers and such. of course, we intend to use the bus as a camper and have no plans to actually live in it.
I just wish my bus was here and not in Maryland. I own it, I just don't have it....yet.

brokedown · 11-21-2019, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juliol

someone here I think it was "01marc" suggested this material:

https://www.recpro.com/rv-fiberglass...V%20Fiberglass

J

LOL a 40 ft roll of that is a thousand bucks!

tclifenow · 11-27-2019, 04:37 PM

Has anybody thought about putting cork on the ceiling?

EastCoastCB · 11-27-2019, 04:44 PM

Organic stuff doesn't fare so well in the bus environment.

PNW_Steve · 11-27-2019, 04:47 PM

In my first bus I used a double layer of Laun door skins. I had 1/2" plywood on the walls and 1/4" plywood on the main part of the ceiling. Then I cut lengths of doorskin to fit the transition from the walls to the ceiling. They "snapped into place with good effect and moderate profanity and blood.

The Luan door skins were cheap.

I am planning on T&G for my ceiling. If I have second thoughts I may fall back on the method I used before.

Rock-N-Ruth · 11-27-2019, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ronnie

I am not talking about removing one screw, this is about removing all the screws and the panels. Is it a,serious issue? No I do not think so but it is a consideration and a reason to put the metal back. Besides great for magnets. Must say that part I had not really thought of, however my wife has magnetic hooks all over our ceiling.

I say oooh rah! Yea magnets! I have dropped the ceiling on one bus to add insulation. I numbered the panels and had no trouble putting them back. Got to have a place for my magnets. Make a simple jack, like a drywall jack, to hold the panels in place. Put them back in the same order they came down, being sure to follow the same overlap as before and you will be golden. Most of the panels lined up so well a punch was not needed most of the time. All the screws went back in their original holes.

shorthair · 11-27-2019, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cadillackid

the biggest issue is that the bus flexes from the way it sat.. the body moves.. that ceiling is structural to some extent.. if the bus suspension settled or its been driven its real tough... at least from my experience in trying to help someone restoring a bus that a skoolie failed on a conversion and then dumped.. we tried our best to match up the metal panels.. some the holes lines up, others were way off (easy just drill new ones).. but many were in that bad spot where you cant put a screw back in the same hole as the panel and have it either make an original hole or be far enough way from existing holes to be able to drill a new one.. sure you could drill new holes in the metal panel but in my opinion that is goona look kind of tacky..

-Christopher

Would blocking the bus frame up help to limit the flex ?

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