Putting the metal ceiling back up after insulating?

[brokedown]

So while this thread has clearly gone in other directions, back to the original question... I have abandoned the idea of putting the metal back up for a variety of reasons. Along other things, I decided I have better uses for the metal elsewhere.

[banman]

Originally Posted by brokedown

So while this thread has clearly gone in other directions, back to the original question... I have abandoned the idea of putting the metal back up for a variety of reasons. Along other things, I decided I have better uses for the metal elsewhere.

I thought it was "already worked out" that with your adding foam insulation the original holes wouldn't all line up which would mean drilling a new set of holes which would diminish the oem clean lines of the metal roof...

I'm so far out from pulling my ceiling panels...

what is the gauge of your inner panels and outer skin?

I was really surprised to learn from the 'making an IC bus' video that the outer skin was only 22ga. on that model bus.

But that brings up the point that different models will achieve the required strength spec by different means.

[brokedown]

Took my calipers outside and measured the inner skin, it's 24 gauge. I don't have any exposed edge of the outer skin and don't really plan to have any...

[WIbluebird]

Originally Posted by brokedown

So while this thread has clearly gone in other directions, back to the original question... I have abandoned the idea of putting the metal back up for a variety of reasons. Along other things, I decided I have better uses for the metal elsewhere.

Wish I could re use my ceiling metal but unfortunately it's the perforated variety that Bluebird offered as a premium "acoustic" ceiling.

[banman]

Originally Posted by WIbluebird

Wish I could re use my ceiling metal but unfortunately it's the perforated variety that Bluebird offered as a premium "acoustic" ceiling.

If one could determine that this option didn't 'cause a change to the outer skin and rib spec -- that would answer (for that model...) that the inner skin wasn't part of the overall strength requirement, OR that the acoustic panel is a thicker ga than the solid panel to make up the lost strength...

[brokedown]

One of my panels is an acoustic panel. I haven't gotten it down yet but should happen in the next few days. I'll report back with measurements but I expect it to be the same thickness as the other panels.

[WIbluebird]

Originally Posted by banman

If one could determine that this option didn't 'cause a change to the outer skin and rib spec -- that would answer (for that model...) that the inner skin wasn't part of the overall strength requirement, OR that the acoustic panel is a thicker ga than the solid panel to make up the lost strength...

My entire ceiling is the perforated material and its very thin gauge, like maybe 22 at most. It's def thinner than the standard steel you see in a lot of school buses.

[JDSquared]

Originally Posted by brokedown

One of my panels is an acoustic panel. I haven't gotten it down yet but should happen in the next few days. I'll report back with measurements but I expect it to be the same thickness as the other panels.

Mine are down but I don't have calipers.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by JDSquared

Mine are down but I don't have calipers.

Harbor Freight sells the digital calipers cheap, but most auto parts stores, bearing supply stores, machine shops, and a lot of hardware stores keep a pair behind the counter that you can use in store and possibly in the parking lot.


Sheet metal shops use a gage with different size slots to check gage thickness. If you have some known thickness metal to compare to you can take a pair of vice grips and clamp lightly, release the clamp, re-clamp in the air, then see if it slides on and off the metal with little resistance. Once the vice grips are adjusted correctly they can be used like a spark plug gap gage to compare to the known thickness metal or checked against a feeler gage to measure the gap in the vice grips.

[Shambhala Tinbolle]

hello brokedown and fellow skoolies. On my 72 passenger Bluebird, I removed all the ceiling panels, the yellow - very inefficient - insulation, and insulated every ceiling section with Roxul rockwool. Will be putting the original metal panels up again, then adding more insulation and finishing with luan or what ever other flexible material that suits the finished look I want.

Many reasons to re-install the original metal panels;

} I called Bluebird to find out if they have structural integrity. YES was the answer.

} I called the MTO (ministry of transportation in my province) and spoke with a head supervisor, asking about safety and structural integrity from their perspective. His answer was a solid YES to have the original ceiling panels put back in place.

} It is common sense that the metal would be far superior for safety in the event of a rollover or that anything falls on my roof.

} The panels are paid for, made to fit perfectly, and are flexible.

None of what we're doing is "easy". Full conversion of a school bus into a tiny house, RV or camper is serious physical and brain work. We're all experimenting. Only time is going to tell what work(ed) and what didn't. Very best to you.

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by Shambhala Tinbolle

hello brokedown and fellow skoolies. On my 72 passenger Bluebird, I removed all the ceiling panels, the yellow - very inefficient - insulation, and insulated every ceiling section with Roxul rockwool. Will be putting the original metal panels up again, then adding more insulation and finishing with luan or what ever other flexible material that suits the finished look I want.

Many reasons to re-install the original metal panels;

} I called Bluebird to find out if they have structural integrity. YES was the answer.

} I called the MTO (ministry of transportation in my province) and spoke with a head supervisor, asking about safety and structural integrity from their perspective. His answer was a solid YES to have the original ceiling panels put back in place.

} It is common sense that the metal would be far superior for safety in the event of a rollover or that anything falls on my roof.

} The panels are paid for, made to fit perfectly, and are flexible.

None of what we're doing is "easy". Full conversion of a school bus into a tiny house, RV or camper is serious physical and brain work. We're all experimenting. Only time is going to tell what work(ed) and what didn't. Very best to you.

Nice work, through and to the point, hard to argue with. Kind makes you wonder what the insurance companies think about it, but would rather that they did not get involved.

[brokedown]

Originally Posted by kidharris

hard to argue with.

Oh sweet summer child, we have been debating this topic for a decade and will continue for another decade. [emoji16]

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by brokedown

Oh sweet summer child, we have been debating this topic for a decade and will continue for another decade. [emoji16]

apparently Wanderlodge owners should refit their coaches with metal interior panels or their dicks will go flying off!

I'd love to see pics of the metal put back up and lined up as good as factory.

[WIbluebird]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

apparently Wanderlodge owners should refit their coaches with metal interior panels or their dicks will go flying off!

I'd love to see pics of the metal put back up and lined up as good as factory.

I can't even begin to comprehend how much work it will be to get the original rivet holes to line up properly. There isn't even any room to drill new holes and if one did it would end up looking like total shot!!

[banman]

Thank you Thomas for using screws on my ceilings and walls!

[kidharris]

Originally Posted by brokedown

Oh sweet summer child, we have been debating this topic for a decade and will continue for another decade. [emoji16]

"sweet summer child" - what is that? what topic?

[brokedown]

Originally Posted by kidharris

"sweet summer child" - what is that? what topic?

Game of Thrones thing. Just saying it's naive to think that we won't keep arguing about this exact topic!

[PNW_Steve]

I am on my third bus and fourth factory RV.

I am not a mechanical engineer.

I do have 8+ years and 250k+ miles of living and traveling in my buses and factory RV's.

My $0.02:

After stripping the ceiling panels I am certain that I reduced the structural integrity of the roof. It is unlikely that it could meet the requirements for carrying kids to school.

Having owned and worked on a number of factory RV's I am completely confident that my bus, with the ceiling panels removed, is still significantly safer than a "sticks and staples" RV.

[banman]

Originally Posted by brokedown

Oh sweet summer child, we have been debating this topic for a decade and will continue for another decade. [emoji16]

Just to stir the pot a little more -- gawd I love coffee... -- um...?

Those concerned with the potential reduction (each model is different) in strength by removing the inner roof panel.

I haven't seen a similar concern with removing the wall panels?
It's way more likely to get T-boned than rolling over...
For that matter -- now that I've removed a dozen seats -- they're not just heavy -- they're heavy duty! -- like a fricking roll cage heavy duty being bolted to the chair-rail as they are, they massively increase the strength of that chair-rail.

Oh, and Brokedown -- I do realize this is a complete derailing of your thread -- if you'd like me to make this post a different thread I'll be happy to delete this and do so.

[brokedown]

My seats were nearly 50 pounds each, more than half of it was steel weight. I won't say that it adds required structural strength but there's no denying the bus is stronger with them than without them. Same as the walls, same as the ceiling...