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Old 07-28-2021, 03:58 PM   #1
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Re-sealing around windows WITHOUT pulling the windows

Hi all, I've seen a lot of discussion about pulling the windows and re-doing all the window seals, but that is out of the scope of work for my particular timeframe, and I also don't see it as a necessity. My leaks seem to revolve around the factory sealant shrinking or just plain disappearing from various metal seams, primarily around the windows as shown below.


Given that, can I just get some 3M seam seal and apply it over the existing sealant? Should I make a best effort at removing the existing sealant first? It looks like I might be able to chip out the majority but I don't think I can get it 100% clean.


I searched on this topic but couldn't find much specific advice beyond "pull out all the windows", I'm guessing there's a middle ground option here somewhere.


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Old 07-28-2021, 04:31 PM   #2
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I think the advantage with pulling the windows out for re-sealing is that if done correctly, you'll have the sealant "pinched" between the windows and the bus frame, so even if the sealant eventually loses its adherent properties, the gap will still be watertight. If you just slop on the goop externally it will still be watertight initially, but over time it may shrink and de-adhere and then you have leaks again.

Pulling the windows out really does not take much time at all. I don't think you're going to gain a whole lot by not doing it.
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Old 07-28-2021, 04:44 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by musigenesis View Post
Pulling the windows out really does not take much time at all. I don't think you're going to gain a whole lot by not doing it.
I haven’t researched how to remove the windows. I see 6 or 8 possible screws to remove on the outside, or only 2-4 (?) on the inside.
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Old 07-28-2021, 05:02 PM   #4
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Hello db
No screws on the outside to remove. The removal is done from the inside by just removing the two clamps on each rib. Carefully cut the sealant from around the window, lower the the window then gently pull the window in towards you.
As MG has said its actually very easy to pull them and clean them up proper.Click image for larger version

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I was able to strip, clean, paint and reinstall 6 at a time in a day. Us urethane sealant to bed them back in and you're good to go.
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Old 03-21-2024, 07:28 PM   #5
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I really wish there were more answers to this question. "Pulling the windows out really does not take much time at all." is such a lie. On a 20+ window bus it should take around 30 hours. I'll probably end up just sealing the exterior with Loctite Polyurethane Roof sealant.
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Old 03-21-2024, 08:06 PM   #6
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you build a bus that you plan to spend many hours in either living or campimg.. you put many hours into building it.. window leaks result in water behind your new building materials creating mold and mildew.. yes mold can KILL..


yet you dont want to take a few days ,pull the windows and properly seal them???just half ass caulk them from the outside??
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Old 03-21-2024, 09:00 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesus View Post
I really wish there were more answers to this question. "Pulling the windows out really does not take much time at all." is such a lie. On a 20+ window bus it should take around 30 hours. I'll probably end up just sealing the exterior with Loctite Polyurethane Roof sealant.
Ummm, the left side of the brain says "does not take much time at all" and the right side of the brain says "I'll probably end up just sealing the exterior with Loctite Polyurethane Roof sealant"

Maybe we need some artificial intelligence here 'cause the natural stuff seems confused?

Me, I am going another route, getting rid of all those ugly, leaky and inefficient crappy windows that never want to stay up unless you drive a screw threw them (which I did on my Milkshake bus) and putting in some nicer true RV windows.

It's only 30 hours worth of work!
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Old 03-21-2024, 09:26 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
you build a bus that you plan to spend many hours in either living or campimg.. you put many hours into building it.. window leaks result in water behind your new building materials creating mold and mildew.. yes mold can KILL..


yet you dont want to take a few days ,pull the windows and properly seal them???just half ass caulk them from the outside??
Well, I was gonna "full" ass it by caulking it from the inside, as well.. But fine! I'll do it the right way.
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Old 03-21-2024, 11:51 PM   #9
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I will remove mine but I need to replace the plastic slides that lock them in. Anyone know a good source to get them, or a 3d printed STL I can have? Would be a good 3d print item.
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Old 03-22-2024, 07:02 AM   #10
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Well, I was gonna "full" ass it by caulking it from the inside, as well.. But fine! I'll do it the right way.

my main point is that you put lots of time and effort into a bus build, whether its for an RV or a full time.. caulking from the inside is probably worse as the water can make its way behind..



yes its a pain to get the glue and stuff loose and cleaned up.. but its a lot harder to fix leaks after the fact when you have an interior built in the bus..



with no seats and it being a big tin can is the best time to check for leaks and fix them.
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Old 03-22-2024, 09:43 AM   #11
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People on this forum will likely have strong opinions about doing the windows right. Your rig is nothing if not water-tight. My recommendation: do the homework on what it takes to seal the windows, and don't compromise on making the bus weathertight, so leaks don't degrade the hard work you will be putting in on the conversion.

My experience is with shuttle bus windows, which must be pulled to be properly sealed. I had 11 windows, and did them over two weekends. That's about an hour and a half a window, similar to your estimate. My first window took about three hours, then it got easier after that.

I think there are about 21 screws that hold in each of my windows, and they were rusted, and wicked easy to snap off. Lots of vise grip work.

I ordered the right type of closed cell foam weatherstripping, and used acetone to remove the old seals and associated goo. Again, I have a shuttle bus, so your solution will be different.

I used all new stainless steel screws, doing the research to get the right diameter pilot hole for the aluminum, and still managed to snap off 3 or 4 screws when reinstalling.

That was three years ago, and so far no leaks.
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